For floating vinyl flooring, there are both types with a vinyl core layer (solid vinyl) and those with an HDF core layer (vinyl on HDF backing).
Construction:
Wear-resistant polyurethane coating, vinyl wear layer, vinyl decorative layer, stabilization layer, and then either another vinyl layer or HDF.
Vinyl is suitable for wet rooms, expands less, and the product consists of fewer different materials, each with its own properties.
Sometimes the same manufacturer sells both vinyl with an HDF core and solid vinyl with a vinyl core.
Why choose an HDF board at all instead of solid vinyl, which expands less and is more water-resistant? The construction described above (wear layer, etc.) is always the same.
Construction:
Wear-resistant polyurethane coating, vinyl wear layer, vinyl decorative layer, stabilization layer, and then either another vinyl layer or HDF.
Vinyl is suitable for wet rooms, expands less, and the product consists of fewer different materials, each with its own properties.
Sometimes the same manufacturer sells both vinyl with an HDF core and solid vinyl with a vinyl core.
Why choose an HDF board at all instead of solid vinyl, which expands less and is more water-resistant? The construction described above (wear layer, etc.) is always the same.
Hello,
in terms of underfoot warmth, both solid vinyl (SV) and vinyl on HDF (VH) are identical, as they share the same surface layers.
Both options are constructed very similarly:
The top layer is a multi-layered overlay (usually PU coating, on wear layer, on decorative foil, on vinyl backing) with a thickness of about 1.5 to 2mm (0.06 to 0.08 inches).
This “vinyl layer” is then glued onto the actual core board.
The core board can either be a plastic panel (usually PVC) → SV
or an HDF panel → VH.
Beneath these core boards, there is often an impact sound insulation layer, such as cork for VH or foam layers for the SV option.
So, roughly speaking, both variants consist of a vinyl surface layer and a core layer (plus possible insulation).
What are the advantages and disadvantages of SV and VH (compared to each other)?
SV advantages:
- Lower overall thickness
- Slightly quieter when walking compared to VH
- Can be cleaned with water
- Suitable for wet rooms
- No dimensional changes due to humidity fluctuations
- Slightly better heat transfer (underfloor heating)
- Installation: quiet, dust-free, and quick cutting with a knife
SV disadvantages:
- Less pressure-resistant (permanent dents under constant point loads)
- More deformation of planks under heavy furniture
- Higher flatness requirements for the subfloor
- When installed over tiles with joints > 3mm (0.12 inches), leveling compound is required
- Not suitable for installation over floating floors (like laminate)
- High deformation with temperature changes
- Full-surface gluing required under large glass surfaces
- Usually requires special, more expensive underlay mats if no integrated insulation is present
- Less environmentally friendly
VH advantages:
- No dimensional changes due to temperature fluctuations
- Higher stability under point loads
- Better performance under heavy furniture loads
- Standard flatness requirements for subfloor
- Can be installed over floating floors
- Easily installed over wider tile joints
- Click-lock systems with higher pull-out resistance
- More environmentally friendly
VH disadvantages:
- Greater overall thickness
- Only suitable for light damp cleaning
- Not suitable for wet rooms
- Slightly hollow sound when walking (but still much better than laminate)
- Deformation and joint formation with humidity changes
- Lower heat transfer efficiency (underfloor heating)
From experience, SV has a significant drawback: temperature-related deformation.
Most damage claims or complaints arise with modern large glazed surfaces. Huge windows and balcony doors heat up the surface of SV flooring so much that deformation and joint separation occur. In these cases, there is often a dispute over whether floating installation is still allowed or whether full adhesion was already required. Manufacturers tend to keep their installation guidelines deliberately vague, e.g. “increased sunlight exposure…” — but what qualifies as increased?
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Best regards, wieli
in terms of underfoot warmth, both solid vinyl (SV) and vinyl on HDF (VH) are identical, as they share the same surface layers.
Both options are constructed very similarly:
The top layer is a multi-layered overlay (usually PU coating, on wear layer, on decorative foil, on vinyl backing) with a thickness of about 1.5 to 2mm (0.06 to 0.08 inches).
This “vinyl layer” is then glued onto the actual core board.
The core board can either be a plastic panel (usually PVC) → SV
or an HDF panel → VH.
Beneath these core boards, there is often an impact sound insulation layer, such as cork for VH or foam layers for the SV option.
So, roughly speaking, both variants consist of a vinyl surface layer and a core layer (plus possible insulation).
What are the advantages and disadvantages of SV and VH (compared to each other)?
SV advantages:
- Lower overall thickness
- Slightly quieter when walking compared to VH
- Can be cleaned with water
- Suitable for wet rooms
- No dimensional changes due to humidity fluctuations
- Slightly better heat transfer (underfloor heating)
- Installation: quiet, dust-free, and quick cutting with a knife
SV disadvantages:
- Less pressure-resistant (permanent dents under constant point loads)
- More deformation of planks under heavy furniture
- Higher flatness requirements for the subfloor
- When installed over tiles with joints > 3mm (0.12 inches), leveling compound is required
- Not suitable for installation over floating floors (like laminate)
- High deformation with temperature changes
- Full-surface gluing required under large glass surfaces
- Usually requires special, more expensive underlay mats if no integrated insulation is present
- Less environmentally friendly
VH advantages:
- No dimensional changes due to temperature fluctuations
- Higher stability under point loads
- Better performance under heavy furniture loads
- Standard flatness requirements for subfloor
- Can be installed over floating floors
- Easily installed over wider tile joints
- Click-lock systems with higher pull-out resistance
- More environmentally friendly
VH disadvantages:
- Greater overall thickness
- Only suitable for light damp cleaning
- Not suitable for wet rooms
- Slightly hollow sound when walking (but still much better than laminate)
- Deformation and joint formation with humidity changes
- Lower heat transfer efficiency (underfloor heating)
From experience, SV has a significant drawback: temperature-related deformation.
Most damage claims or complaints arise with modern large glazed surfaces. Huge windows and balcony doors heat up the surface of SV flooring so much that deformation and joint separation occur. In these cases, there is often a dispute over whether floating installation is still allowed or whether full adhesion was already required. Manufacturers tend to keep their installation guidelines deliberately vague, e.g. “increased sunlight exposure…” — but what qualifies as increased?
If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.
Best regards, wieli
A
andreasonair30 Oct 2017 19:45Thank you for the explanations.
We plan to install click-lock rigid vinyl flooring in the basement and attic of our new build (over heated screed). On one hand, we don’t have significant direct sunlight. Further reasons for choosing rigid vinyl in our case: we feel confident installing the click system ourselves; rigid vinyl handles moisture well (laundry room, hobby room, etc.); it is reportedly well suited for underfloor heating (with the appropriate thin insulation mat depending on the manufacturer).
At the moment, we are finding the selection difficult: the common brand manufacturers offer similar products within a comparable price range at first glance. After ordering some samples, we can narrow down the options regarding appearance, but there are still quite a few choices left. Are there any current experiences regarding the quality of the different manufacturers concerning the click connection (ease of installation, stability), surface durability, and so on?
Best regards, Andreas
We plan to install click-lock rigid vinyl flooring in the basement and attic of our new build (over heated screed). On one hand, we don’t have significant direct sunlight. Further reasons for choosing rigid vinyl in our case: we feel confident installing the click system ourselves; rigid vinyl handles moisture well (laundry room, hobby room, etc.); it is reportedly well suited for underfloor heating (with the appropriate thin insulation mat depending on the manufacturer).
At the moment, we are finding the selection difficult: the common brand manufacturers offer similar products within a comparable price range at first glance. After ordering some samples, we can narrow down the options regarding appearance, but there are still quite a few choices left. Are there any current experiences regarding the quality of the different manufacturers concerning the click connection (ease of installation, stability), surface durability, and so on?
Best regards, Andreas
Hello Andreas!
Among well-known manufacturers, I am not aware of any significant quality differences within the same price range.
A price difference of a few euros – with the same quality! – can result from:
None of these factors reflect the actual quality but can influence the price by a few euros.
In general, all well-known manufacturers are good. For private labels, ask who the actual manufacturer is. It might be possible to identify them via the EAN code. (One of the largest manufacturers, producing for many retailers, is the Swiss company Lico.)
I would steer clear of very cheap (hardware store) products. These are often bought by the container from leftover batches in China, and I am not sure if all the substances would pass health tests (for example, plasticizers already banned in Europe).
I also do not recommend products under 4mm (without underlayment) because there is very little material to mill a stable click system. A thickness of 4–5mm (without underlayment) is ideal.
An important, but now standard, feature is a PU (polyurethane) surface coating. This makes the floor more scratch-resistant and easier to maintain.
The wear layer should be 0.3mm for residential use. More, for example 0.55mm, generally offers very little benefit. It does not make it more scratch-resistant! It only takes longer before the wear layer is worn down to the decor. And you will not achieve that in a household for decades... So don’t let the seller talk you into a higher price category because of this!
In my opinion, the type of click connection is really unimportant. Every system works, even long-term (quality). You have the floor for decades, so don’t worry about the 2 days you spend installing it! The hour you might save installing 50 square meters is basically worthless, right? Nobody will care about that afterward.
Have I answered everything, or do you have any remaining questions?
Feel free to post the floor you want to choose for an assessment.
Best regards, Wieli
Among well-known manufacturers, I am not aware of any significant quality differences within the same price range.
A price difference of a few euros – with the same quality! – can result from:
- plank size (XXL)
- more realistic decors
- synchronized embossing (where there is a knot in the decor photo, there is also a knot embossed in the wear layer)
- private label branding of retail chains
- click systems (licensing fees)
None of these factors reflect the actual quality but can influence the price by a few euros.
In general, all well-known manufacturers are good. For private labels, ask who the actual manufacturer is. It might be possible to identify them via the EAN code. (One of the largest manufacturers, producing for many retailers, is the Swiss company Lico.)
I would steer clear of very cheap (hardware store) products. These are often bought by the container from leftover batches in China, and I am not sure if all the substances would pass health tests (for example, plasticizers already banned in Europe).
I also do not recommend products under 4mm (without underlayment) because there is very little material to mill a stable click system. A thickness of 4–5mm (without underlayment) is ideal.
An important, but now standard, feature is a PU (polyurethane) surface coating. This makes the floor more scratch-resistant and easier to maintain.
The wear layer should be 0.3mm for residential use. More, for example 0.55mm, generally offers very little benefit. It does not make it more scratch-resistant! It only takes longer before the wear layer is worn down to the decor. And you will not achieve that in a household for decades... So don’t let the seller talk you into a higher price category because of this!
In my opinion, the type of click connection is really unimportant. Every system works, even long-term (quality). You have the floor for decades, so don’t worry about the 2 days you spend installing it! The hour you might save installing 50 square meters is basically worthless, right? Nobody will care about that afterward.
Have I answered everything, or do you have any remaining questions?
Feel free to post the floor you want to choose for an assessment.
Best regards, Wieli
Thanks also from me for the extensive information.
Based on the samples and the promised quality features, we currently find planeo Isocore excellent. As far as I understand, the actual development of this material comes from the USA and is also used there by companies such as Allure, Aspecta Flooring, and others.
New in Germany, as far as I know, it has not been available for a few months yet: this Isocore technology is also offered by the Bauhaus brand b!Design. Clearly positioned in the higher price segment.
In any case, we requested samples from well-known manufacturers and found Isocore (in our case from planeo) very good in terms of feel (embossing), stability (we performed various scratch tests with keys), and the advertised characteristics.
Mainly important for us: easy installation even over large areas, for example 20 x 20 meters (65 x 65 feet), because allegedly there is no expansion or contraction whatsoever. Is that true? Most vinyl flooring is only approved for about 10 meters (33 feet) or 8 x 12 meters (26 x 39 feet), and so on...
Based on the samples and the promised quality features, we currently find planeo Isocore excellent. As far as I understand, the actual development of this material comes from the USA and is also used there by companies such as Allure, Aspecta Flooring, and others.
New in Germany, as far as I know, it has not been available for a few months yet: this Isocore technology is also offered by the Bauhaus brand b!Design. Clearly positioned in the higher price segment.
In any case, we requested samples from well-known manufacturers and found Isocore (in our case from planeo) very good in terms of feel (embossing), stability (we performed various scratch tests with keys), and the advertised characteristics.
Mainly important for us: easy installation even over large areas, for example 20 x 20 meters (65 x 65 feet), because allegedly there is no expansion or contraction whatsoever. Is that true? Most vinyl flooring is only approved for about 10 meters (33 feet) or 8 x 12 meters (26 x 39 feet), and so on...
Hello Grym,
the Isocore panels are produced by HWZ International in Switzerland. You can find more information on their website (under the name "Sly").
The quality is excellent. Prices for the XXL, for example, range between 39.90 and 43.90, so it is somewhat on the higher end. We have been selling these for some time now, and I am convinced of this technology (in the vinyl sector). I haven’t mentioned such special features as those represented by Isocore in my posts before because it would have gone too much into detail.
But here are the key points:
The click system is a fold-down type, meaning the long side is angled in, and the short side locks in the same step like a snap fastener. These systems are somewhat faster than the classic angle-angle locking systems, but as mentioned, this is not really important for the final result.
Regarding your mention of 20 x 20 m (65.6 x 65.6 ft), I am not 100% sure about the manufacturer’s specifications, but I will confirm this tomorrow. The statement that the panels do not expand is definitely incorrect. As I said, it is less risky than “normal” vinyl, but personally, I would not risk 20 m (65.6 ft). You then have one area that has to withstand different room climates. If stresses develop, the narrow door area is particularly the bottleneck or even almost a predetermined breaking point.
Best regards,
Wieli
the Isocore panels are produced by HWZ International in Switzerland. You can find more information on their website (under the name "Sly").
The quality is excellent. Prices for the XXL, for example, range between 39.90 and 43.90, so it is somewhat on the higher end. We have been selling these for some time now, and I am convinced of this technology (in the vinyl sector). I haven’t mentioned such special features as those represented by Isocore in my posts before because it would have gone too much into detail.
But here are the key points:
- The Isocore core board is significantly more stable than “regular” vinyl core boards when it comes to expansion caused by temperature differences. The board is not 100% solid vinyl; it contains micro air cells compressed under extreme pressure. This creates a foam-like, solid structure that deforms and expands less.
- The backing layer on the underside is also good, especially an advantage with underfloor heating, as it is fully glued down — so no additional air layers are possible (which would reduce heat transfer).
- Ceramic particles are included in the coating — these have proven effective in lacquer products and are likely similar for vinyl.
- For those who need it: antibacterial treatment.
The click system is a fold-down type, meaning the long side is angled in, and the short side locks in the same step like a snap fastener. These systems are somewhat faster than the classic angle-angle locking systems, but as mentioned, this is not really important for the final result.
Regarding your mention of 20 x 20 m (65.6 x 65.6 ft), I am not 100% sure about the manufacturer’s specifications, but I will confirm this tomorrow. The statement that the panels do not expand is definitely incorrect. As I said, it is less risky than “normal” vinyl, but personally, I would not risk 20 m (65.6 ft). You then have one area that has to withstand different room climates. If stresses develop, the narrow door area is particularly the bottleneck or even almost a predetermined breaking point.
Best regards,
Wieli
A
andreasonair30 Oct 2017 22:31So far, we are considering Parador Vinyl Basic 4.3 or Classic 2050, as well as wineo 600 or 800 (each with slightly different wear layers—which seems less important to us—and different click systems). Since we are not yet completely satisfied or sure about the look/color, we plan to keep looking for now (we still have about three weeks).
We also recently came across Sly. Regarding this option, we were uncertain about two points: first, whether the integrated impact sound insulation (resulting in a thicker overall height of 7 to 7.5 mm (0.28 to 0.30 inches)) is an advantage or disadvantage compared to the other systems that use separate, softer insulation mats, especially in terms of installation on our fresh heated screed? Second, in the installation instructions for Sly, the subfloor flatness tolerance is specified as “3 mm (0.12 inches) over 1.8 m (5.9 feet).” The common German products usually refer to the corresponding DIN standard with 3 mm (0.12 inches) over 1 m (3.3 feet) or 5 mm (0.20 inches) over 2 m (6.6 feet), meaning less stringent requirements.
Best regards, Andreas
We also recently came across Sly. Regarding this option, we were uncertain about two points: first, whether the integrated impact sound insulation (resulting in a thicker overall height of 7 to 7.5 mm (0.28 to 0.30 inches)) is an advantage or disadvantage compared to the other systems that use separate, softer insulation mats, especially in terms of installation on our fresh heated screed? Second, in the installation instructions for Sly, the subfloor flatness tolerance is specified as “3 mm (0.12 inches) over 1.8 m (5.9 feet).” The common German products usually refer to the corresponding DIN standard with 3 mm (0.12 inches) over 1 m (3.3 feet) or 5 mm (0.20 inches) over 2 m (6.6 feet), meaning less stringent requirements.
Best regards, Andreas
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