Hello dear forum members,
The boss asked me to build a WPC deck. Currently, there is still grass growing there. The area measures 4 x 5 m (13 x 16 ft) and starts from the patio door. I am only concerned with the foundation.
This is what I have planned:
1. Dig to a depth of about 30 cm (12 inches).
2. Lay a geotextile membrane.
3. Spread a 20 cm (8 inch) layer of crushed stone, compacted with a plate compactor, with a 4% slope.
4. Add a 10 cm (4 inch) bedding layer of fine crushed stone, compacted again, with a 2% slope.
On this, I want to place individual rows of concrete edging stones, on which I can install the substructure.
I also plan to edge the whole area to prevent lateral slipping.
So far, so good. This also complies with the manufacturer’s specifications. Then a representative from a landscaping company came to make me an offer and said that he would never do it without concrete and reinforcing mesh and that he could not guarantee the work if done the way I am planning.
As I said, I wanted to do it myself anyway, but now I am a bit unsure.
Please share your opinions and knowledge on this subject.
Thank you in advance and have a nice weekend!
The boss asked me to build a WPC deck. Currently, there is still grass growing there. The area measures 4 x 5 m (13 x 16 ft) and starts from the patio door. I am only concerned with the foundation.
This is what I have planned:
1. Dig to a depth of about 30 cm (12 inches).
2. Lay a geotextile membrane.
3. Spread a 20 cm (8 inch) layer of crushed stone, compacted with a plate compactor, with a 4% slope.
4. Add a 10 cm (4 inch) bedding layer of fine crushed stone, compacted again, with a 2% slope.
On this, I want to place individual rows of concrete edging stones, on which I can install the substructure.
I also plan to edge the whole area to prevent lateral slipping.
So far, so good. This also complies with the manufacturer’s specifications. Then a representative from a landscaping company came to make me an offer and said that he would never do it without concrete and reinforcing mesh and that he could not guarantee the work if done the way I am planning.
As I said, I wanted to do it myself anyway, but now I am a bit unsure.
Please share your opinions and knowledge on this subject.
Thank you in advance and have a nice weekend!
N
nordanney11 Apr 2016 13:57baudu schrieb:
And do you establish the necessary slope by the length of the PVC drainpipes, or do you just adjust the freezer bags a bit until it fits? What slope? I always install the terrace without a slope; the rainwater drains through the joints – so slope is only relevant for the subbase to allow water to run off.
A wooden terrace has the advantage of being level.
P.S. You can shape the bags like modeling clay, as needed.
baudu schrieb:
And once the bag is cured, do you still drill into the support beam? No, once the terrace rests on it, nothing moves anymore (at least if done properly).
It doesn’t make sense for another reason either. The bags aren’t heavy, meaning the bags “hang” from the beam, not the other way around.
N
nordanney11 Apr 2016 14:25Sebastian79 schrieb:
You are mistaken in thinking that a wooden deck does not need a slope and that gaps alone are sufficient. Sorry, but you’ll need to explain this to me!
Water cannot accumulate in any significant amount on a wooden deck. That is physically impossible and has also been proven in practice. Have YOU ever seen a puddle a centimeter deep on a deck? Water simply drains away through the gaps and then flows underneath the deck. On a rainy day, it looks no different than a stone terrace (with a slope).
Sebastian79 schrieb:
Calculate the total area of the gaps – it’s not much It doesn’t need to be much. It only needs to allow rainwater to drain. Gaps of about +/- 5mm (0.2 inches) are sufficient for that.
Sebastian79 schrieb:
Calculate the total area of the gaps – it’s not much. Also, the problem is mainly with snow/ice... Snow and ice are not liquid water. Snow even remains on my house roof despite a steep slope. A terrace, whether wooden or stone, will also freeze over. Hoarfrost will also form there. None of this has anything to do with slope.
S
Sebastian7911 Apr 2016 15:14This is done, among other reasons, to prevent the formation of biofilm, and also to allow melting water from ice or snow to drain away more quickly.
It is no coincidence that every supplier of decking boards requires this or considers it a defect if the landscaper does not implement it.
That does not mean it won’t work without it – but don’t claim that it is not necessary.
It is no coincidence that every supplier of decking boards requires this or considers it a defect if the landscaper does not implement it.
That does not mean it won’t work without it – but don’t claim that it is not necessary.
N
nordanney11 Apr 2016 15:28Sebastian79 schrieb:
but don't tell me now that it's not necessary But that is exactly the case. It is NOT necessary.
The formation of biofilm. What nonsense!!! The same goes for thawing water.
It may be stated somewhere. But that doesn’t change the fact that it is complete nonsense, and so I repeat: A wooden deck does not require a slope. This does not improve water drainage by even a single drop, nor does it prevent the surface from developing "biofilm." Around here, we simply call it algae growth. This is related to the orientation of the deck.
The grooved deck boards, which are constantly promoted as being less slippery, are also nonsense.
Grooved boards are a) harder to clean/maintain b) water doesn’t drain as easily c) they rot faster d) lower risk of splinters (with wood)
S
Sebastian7911 Apr 2016 15:32Okay, so everyone else is simply wrong, the standards are incorrect, and the bank clerk knows better.
I’m just quoting what the official technical regulations state – I wouldn’t dismiss that as nonsense right away. It’s fine to point out that you do things differently based on your experience and don’t find it necessary, but since many non-experts are reading here, I would at least accept what the technical regulations say.
And please avoid repeating words like "nonsense" and "rubbish" multiple times...
But it’s interesting that water drains just as well or poorly with a slope as it does without one – apparently even physics is being re-explained here.
I’m just quoting what the official technical regulations state – I wouldn’t dismiss that as nonsense right away. It’s fine to point out that you do things differently based on your experience and don’t find it necessary, but since many non-experts are reading here, I would at least accept what the technical regulations say.
And please avoid repeating words like "nonsense" and "rubbish" multiple times...
But it’s interesting that water drains just as well or poorly with a slope as it does without one – apparently even physics is being re-explained here.
Hold on, manufacturers don’t recommend a slope without reason. It’s not about having puddles several centimeters (inches) deep, but about preventing a water film from forming. A slope makes this more unlikely. Personally, I would never build a wooden deck without a slope.
Especially with grooved decking boards, I would even consider incorporating a slope in both directions.
My experience shows that boards where a water film remains suffer damage much faster.
Sent from my mobile device
Especially with grooved decking boards, I would even consider incorporating a slope in both directions.
My experience shows that boards where a water film remains suffer damage much faster.
Sent from my mobile device
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