Hello.
As a LAN cable and networking enthusiast, I naturally want to install many LAN outlets in my future solid construction house, preferably in duplex format, meaning a double socket supplied by a duplex cable.
Usually, at work, I install these in trunking channels or drywall partitions, where there is plenty of space to neatly store the cable slack.
However, in a deep flush-mounted socket box, it gets quite tight. Bend radii cannot really be maintained, and you have to cut very close and then somehow push everything inside.
At work, we only deal with commercial buildings featuring trunking channels; flush-mounted installations are almost nonexistent.
Do you have experience whether it is absolutely necessary to embed the large electronics boxes, or if the smaller module boxes are sufficient?
Thank you very much for your advice!
Best regards,
Ralf1980
As a LAN cable and networking enthusiast, I naturally want to install many LAN outlets in my future solid construction house, preferably in duplex format, meaning a double socket supplied by a duplex cable.
Usually, at work, I install these in trunking channels or drywall partitions, where there is plenty of space to neatly store the cable slack.
However, in a deep flush-mounted socket box, it gets quite tight. Bend radii cannot really be maintained, and you have to cut very close and then somehow push everything inside.
At work, we only deal with commercial buildings featuring trunking channels; flush-mounted installations are almost nonexistent.
Do you have experience whether it is absolutely necessary to embed the large electronics boxes, or if the smaller module boxes are sufficient?
Thank you very much for your advice!
Best regards,
Ralf1980
H
HeimatBauer22 Sep 2023 19:00Well, you already mentioned the issue with bending radii. With the standard (of course deep) flush-mounted boxes, it’s quite tricky to fit everything in, and you only have a limited number of attempts – cutting too much off doesn’t help, and every mistake has a cost. You only really realize how well you’ve done afterwards, when the switch complains 🙂
I installed large boxes in a few critical spots where you can also fit a small SBC and then mount the display flat against the wall. Otherwise, I used standard (deep) flush-mounted boxes. The first 10 boxes were stressful, but the remaining 60 went relatively smoothly.
I installed large boxes in a few critical spots where you can also fit a small SBC and then mount the display flat against the wall. Otherwise, I used standard (deep) flush-mounted boxes. The first 10 boxes were stressful, but the remaining 60 went relatively smoothly.
Hi, if the feeder cable is routed through a slightly oversized protective conduit, you can usually push or pull the important 2cm (about 1 inch) inside or outside. There are flush-mounted junction boxes where the lower part can be inserted into the box, allowing the cables to be terminated using insulation displacement connectors (IDC), and only then is the upper part installed. These don’t require much slack in the cable. I believe cable entries are possible every 45°, and these boxes were available from...? (I can’t remember exactly, maybe Telegärtner?)
In my new house, I used modular flush-mounted boxes from Metz Connect. It’s still a tricky job even with deep boxes. I made things a bit easier with the network boxes by cutting off the entire back part of the orange flush-mounted inserts.
It worked well. I have a Fluke DSP available and measured everything afterward ;-) If things go wrong, the switch might not complain but the port could end up running only at 10 or 100 Mbps ;-)
In my new house, I used modular flush-mounted boxes from Metz Connect. It’s still a tricky job even with deep boxes. I made things a bit easier with the network boxes by cutting off the entire back part of the orange flush-mounted inserts.
It worked well. I have a Fluke DSP available and measured everything afterward ;-) If things go wrong, the switch might not complain but the port could end up running only at 10 or 100 Mbps ;-)
H
HeimatBauer23 Sep 2023 13:16i_b_n_a_n schrieb:
If things go wrong, the switch doesn’t complain, but the port might only run at 10 or 100 Mbit/s ;-)That’s exactly what I meant by “complain” 🙂
For termination tools, I use the Krone type. First, I terminated all the patch panels as practice, then the outlets. I used duplex inserts with flexible cable entry (a lifesaver!) from Rutenbeck. At that time, I went to a specialist retailer to check out the different inserts, and the rotatable cable entry saves you from many kinks, since when pushing the cable into the outlet you can simply rotate the access slightly. It’s hard to explain, but I never want to use inserts without rotatable entries again.
You can never leave enough cable slack in the outlet. At one outlet, I left so little cable that I had to install the lower part of the outlet into the wall box first, then carefully strip the cable and (of course without cutting anything when laying it in) just barely managed to get the very tip into the connector. Phew.
The large electrical boxes have the advantage that you can push 30-40cm (12-16 inches) of cable in during installation, then after plastering pull it out again and comfortably crimp a connector. Once that’s done, the SBC is connected and everything goes back into the electrical box. That’s why I installed these boxes at all potential locations for intercoms or info panels, for example next to doors, near intercom/door opener units, etc.
In some cases, I just ran the cables inside the wall, installed a flush-mounted box aligned with the brickwork (yes, a bit too deep), clipped off the tabs from the plaster cover, and carefully noted the exact location of the box. Then I just plastered over it. If I ever need an outlet there, I’ll just chip out the plaster, install a spacer ring, and mount the insert and cover.