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BertTheNerd28 Jan 2021 11:53Hello everyone,
Development plan/restrictions
Plot size: 816m² (9855 ft²)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: no
Floor area ratio: no
Building line, setback, and boundary: 3m (10 feet) distance from the street, etc.
Edge development: no
Number of parking spaces: no
Number of stories: 1
Roof type: gable roof
Style: classic single-family house
Orientation: north is up
Maximum heights/limits: no
Other requirements
Homeowners' requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Basement, floors: ground floor, upper floor, attic, no basement
Number of occupants, age: 4 (2 adults around 30, 2 children under 5)
Room requirements on ground and upper floor: approximately as per the floor plan
Office: family use or home office? both
Overnight guests per year: 10
Open or closed architecture: open
Conservative or modern construction: conservative
Open kitchen with island: yes
Number of dining seats: 6
Fireplace: no
Music/stereo wall: no
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Garage, carport: possibly
Utility garden, greenhouse: no
Other wishes/special features/daily routine, including reasons why certain things are or are not desired
House design
Who created the plan:
- Builder’s planner: yes
- Architect
- Do-it-yourself
What do you particularly like? Why? Overall impression
What do you not like? Why? see below
Price estimate according to architect/planner: 320k
Personal price limit for the house, including fixtures: 380k
Preferred heating system: heat pump (geothermal)
If you have to give up something, which details/extensions
- can you give up:
- can you not give up:
Why is the design as it is now? For example:
Standard design from the planner? yes
Which requests were implemented by the architect?
A mix of many examples from various magazines...
What do you think makes it particularly good or bad?
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
We want to build in summer. The following floor plan is our idea (north is up). The house has already been built several times in this or a mirrored form, and we were able to visit one of these.
However, we would like to make three modifications:
1. According to the development plan, we are only allowed one full floor. The house, as per the floor plan, has a knee wall height of 75cm (30 inches). 100cm (39 inches) would probably still be allowed, so it remains one full floor. We would, however, prefer a higher knee wall and would like to increase the gross floor area on the ground floor by adding a cold winter garden (9–13m² (97–140 ft²)). The ideal location would probably be on the south side in front of the terrace door from the living room. If we block both the terrace door and the window with the winter garden, will we lose a lot of sunlight/heat in the living room, or is that not a big issue? Would it be better to leave the window uncovered? Other ideas?
2. The standard raw ceiling height on the ground floor is 2.64m (8 ft 8 inches). Since we want underfloor heating, this seems a bit low. If we increase the height, the staircase will likely need to be larger/taller (more steps). Regardless of the exact increase, what do you think is the best way to create the additional space needed for the bigger staircase?
3. The bathroom on the upper floor is a bit too small for us (an additional 50cm (20 inches) width would be good). If we move the stairs slightly, the staircase would either protrude into the hallway on the ground floor or we would need to narrow the guest room. We don’t want either of those options. Does the house need to be expanded, or do you have another idea?
4. We will have a friend who lives and works farther away prepare the building notification and structural engineering. With the documents (drawings, etc.) and other specific requests, we would then contact local builders/general contractors for a quote. Does this sound feasible, and does anyone have experience with this approach?
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Development plan/restrictions
Plot size: 816m² (9855 ft²)
Slope: no
Site coverage ratio: no
Floor area ratio: no
Building line, setback, and boundary: 3m (10 feet) distance from the street, etc.
Edge development: no
Number of parking spaces: no
Number of stories: 1
Roof type: gable roof
Style: classic single-family house
Orientation: north is up
Maximum heights/limits: no
Other requirements
Homeowners' requirements
Style, roof type, building type
Basement, floors: ground floor, upper floor, attic, no basement
Number of occupants, age: 4 (2 adults around 30, 2 children under 5)
Room requirements on ground and upper floor: approximately as per the floor plan
Office: family use or home office? both
Overnight guests per year: 10
Open or closed architecture: open
Conservative or modern construction: conservative
Open kitchen with island: yes
Number of dining seats: 6
Fireplace: no
Music/stereo wall: no
Balcony, roof terrace: no
Garage, carport: possibly
Utility garden, greenhouse: no
Other wishes/special features/daily routine, including reasons why certain things are or are not desired
House design
Who created the plan:
- Builder’s planner: yes
- Architect
- Do-it-yourself
What do you particularly like? Why? Overall impression
What do you not like? Why? see below
Price estimate according to architect/planner: 320k
Personal price limit for the house, including fixtures: 380k
Preferred heating system: heat pump (geothermal)
If you have to give up something, which details/extensions
- can you give up:
- can you not give up:
Why is the design as it is now? For example:
Standard design from the planner? yes
Which requests were implemented by the architect?
A mix of many examples from various magazines...
What do you think makes it particularly good or bad?
What is the most important/basic question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
We want to build in summer. The following floor plan is our idea (north is up). The house has already been built several times in this or a mirrored form, and we were able to visit one of these.
However, we would like to make three modifications:
1. According to the development plan, we are only allowed one full floor. The house, as per the floor plan, has a knee wall height of 75cm (30 inches). 100cm (39 inches) would probably still be allowed, so it remains one full floor. We would, however, prefer a higher knee wall and would like to increase the gross floor area on the ground floor by adding a cold winter garden (9–13m² (97–140 ft²)). The ideal location would probably be on the south side in front of the terrace door from the living room. If we block both the terrace door and the window with the winter garden, will we lose a lot of sunlight/heat in the living room, or is that not a big issue? Would it be better to leave the window uncovered? Other ideas?
2. The standard raw ceiling height on the ground floor is 2.64m (8 ft 8 inches). Since we want underfloor heating, this seems a bit low. If we increase the height, the staircase will likely need to be larger/taller (more steps). Regardless of the exact increase, what do you think is the best way to create the additional space needed for the bigger staircase?
3. The bathroom on the upper floor is a bit too small for us (an additional 50cm (20 inches) width would be good). If we move the stairs slightly, the staircase would either protrude into the hallway on the ground floor or we would need to narrow the guest room. We don’t want either of those options. Does the house need to be expanded, or do you have another idea?
4. We will have a friend who lives and works farther away prepare the building notification and structural engineering. With the documents (drawings, etc.) and other specific requests, we would then contact local builders/general contractors for a quote. Does this sound feasible, and does anyone have experience with this approach?
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
I
Ideensucher28 Jan 2021 12:07BertTheNerd schrieb:
Cost estimate according to architect/planner: 320k
Personal price limit for the house, including fittings: 380k
Preferred heating technology: heat pump (geothermal) I’m estimating 180 sqm (1,938 sq ft).
With the often-mentioned minimum of 2000 euros/sqm (about $185/sq ft), this will be very tight even with your budget.
Ideensucher schrieb:
I estimate 180 sqm (1937 sq ft).
At the often mentioned minimum of 2000 euros/sqm (approximately $186/sq ft), this will be a very tight budget even with your limit. What about a conservatory, bay windows, geothermal heating, higher ceilings?
And what about garage, driveway, etc.?
If the house, even mirrored, has already been viewed and is basically considered feasible to build, why then have a higher knee wall?
At the very least, the process is backwards. Structural engineering is specific and does not make sense before adjustments by the draftsman of the general contractor (who, by the way, also handles the building permit/planning permission). A conservatory should correspond to an appropriate budget. Please provide more details about the plot and zoning regulations first, as this will allow much more targeted advice for planning the specific house. Using the search term “self-contracting” should easily bring up all the opinions I have already shared here about the contracting process, construction management, and so on.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
BertTheNerd schrieb:
We are having the building notification and structural engineering done by an acquaintance who lives/works further away. With the documents (drawings, etc.) and additional specific requests, we would then contact local construction companies/general contractors for a quote. Does this sound feasible, and does anyone have experience with this approach?
At the very least, the process is backwards. Structural engineering is specific and does not make sense before adjustments by the draftsman of the general contractor (who, by the way, also handles the building permit/planning permission). A conservatory should correspond to an appropriate budget. Please provide more details about the plot and zoning regulations first, as this will allow much more targeted advice for planning the specific house. Using the search term “self-contracting” should easily bring up all the opinions I have already shared here about the contracting process, construction management, and so on.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
K
KlausBautHaus28 Jan 2021 22:5111ant schrieb:
At the very least, the workflow is reversed. Structural calculations are specific and do not make sense to change after modifications by the contractor’s draftsman (who, by the way, also handles the building permit / planning permission application). No no, maybe I didn’t express myself clearly. We receive all kinds of drawings and documents, structural calculations, etc. (standard brick dimensions and what needs to be considered) so that any competent builder can get started. I checked with the local planning company and they said they would simply exclude the services for floor plan design and structural calculations and then continue from the next step.
If so, I would place such a space next to the kitchen to use it in winter for plant cultivation, placing potted plants, or storing vegetables.
However, with 180 sqm (1,938 sq ft), I see the budget as rather unstable than solid. Building even larger on the upper floor and creating additional rooms that aren’t really needed is the wrong direction in my opinion.
If you don’t want the costly bay window, then at least skip the third gable (or dormer) upstairs. That way, you would save at least 10,000 more in your budget and gain knee wall capacity, allowing you to get what you want.
Changing the roof pitch is also an option.
Additionally, the windows on the upper floor should be widened. I think the bathroom is fine as it is. It will certainly feel cozier than a ballroom.
I would probably remove the short hallway between the utility room and the kitchen, effectively adding that hallway area to the utility room so you only have to open one door from the kitchen to the pantry.
Regarding the bathroom again: you could adjust the utility room wall to align with the kitchen wall (making one straight line). This would move the staircase about 30 cm (12 inches) downward on the plan. Of course, the office would have to shrink a bit, but upstairs it wouldn’t affect the huge bedroom too much to give up some square meters. This way, the bathroom would become somewhat larger.
However, with 180 sqm (1,938 sq ft), I see the budget as rather unstable than solid. Building even larger on the upper floor and creating additional rooms that aren’t really needed is the wrong direction in my opinion.
If you don’t want the costly bay window, then at least skip the third gable (or dormer) upstairs. That way, you would save at least 10,000 more in your budget and gain knee wall capacity, allowing you to get what you want.
Changing the roof pitch is also an option.
Additionally, the windows on the upper floor should be widened. I think the bathroom is fine as it is. It will certainly feel cozier than a ballroom.
I would probably remove the short hallway between the utility room and the kitchen, effectively adding that hallway area to the utility room so you only have to open one door from the kitchen to the pantry.
Regarding the bathroom again: you could adjust the utility room wall to align with the kitchen wall (making one straight line). This would move the staircase about 30 cm (12 inches) downward on the plan. Of course, the office would have to shrink a bit, but upstairs it wouldn’t affect the huge bedroom too much to give up some square meters. This way, the bathroom would become somewhat larger.
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