ᐅ Single-family house floor plan, approximately 180 m², basement with a pitched roof
Created on: 27 Jul 2016 16:59
M
Mike12345678901
Hello everyone,
Attached is our floor plan, on which the detailed construction plan will be based in the coming days. We would appreciate any constructive criticism and suggestions for improvement.
Development Plan / Restrictions
Plot size: approximately 850m² (9,150 sq ft)
Slope: yes, see terrain elevation image
Site coverage ratio: 0.3
Floor area ratio: 0.6
Edge development: yes
Number of parking spaces: 1.25
Number of floors: 2
Roof type: gable roof - visible roof truss
Roof pitch: 15-30 degrees
Architectural style: family house, country house
Orientation: north-south (planned)
Maximum cut on plot: 0.75m (2.5 ft)
Maximum fill on plot: 0.75m (2.5 ft)
Knee wall height:
Valley side: permitted up to 0.50m (20 inches) measured from top of raw ceiling to top of purlin;
Hill side: permitted up to 0.75m (30 inches), measured from top of raw ceiling to top of purlin.
Additional Specifications
Basement, floors: yes, 2
Number of occupants, ages: 4 (3, 6, 39, 41)
Space requirements on ground floor and upper floor:
Office: home office
Garage, carport: garage
Guest bedrooms: many
Open or closed architecture: open (living area)
Open kitchen, kitchen island: yes
Number of dining seats: 8 (one central dining table)
Fireplace: yes
House Design
Designer: self-designed
What do you particularly like? Living area
What do you not like? The slope is somehow not being utilized, but we can’t think of any ideas
Preferred heating technology: gas condensing boiler seems appropriate since gas is available, but not yet finalized
Other Notes:
Attached is our floor plan, on which the detailed construction plan will be based in the coming days. We would appreciate any constructive criticism and suggestions for improvement.
Development Plan / Restrictions
Plot size: approximately 850m² (9,150 sq ft)
Slope: yes, see terrain elevation image
Site coverage ratio: 0.3
Floor area ratio: 0.6
Edge development: yes
Number of parking spaces: 1.25
Number of floors: 2
Roof type: gable roof - visible roof truss
Roof pitch: 15-30 degrees
Architectural style: family house, country house
Orientation: north-south (planned)
Maximum cut on plot: 0.75m (2.5 ft)
Maximum fill on plot: 0.75m (2.5 ft)
Knee wall height:
Valley side: permitted up to 0.50m (20 inches) measured from top of raw ceiling to top of purlin;
Hill side: permitted up to 0.75m (30 inches), measured from top of raw ceiling to top of purlin.
Additional Specifications
Basement, floors: yes, 2
Number of occupants, ages: 4 (3, 6, 39, 41)
Space requirements on ground floor and upper floor:
Office: home office
Garage, carport: garage
Guest bedrooms: many
Open or closed architecture: open (living area)
Open kitchen, kitchen island: yes
Number of dining seats: 8 (one central dining table)
Fireplace: yes
House Design
Designer: self-designed
What do you particularly like? Living area
What do you not like? The slope is somehow not being utilized, but we can’t think of any ideas
Preferred heating technology: gas condensing boiler seems appropriate since gas is available, but not yet finalized
Other Notes:
- Parcel 4 in the site plan is ours
- The 2m (6.5 ft) line is not yet drawn, as the roof pitch has not been definitively determined
- Windows etc., especially on the upper floor, are also not yet 100% fixed; we would appreciate any tips
- North is at the top
- We have a slight (?) slope (from 511.65m (1,681 ft) in the southeast to 507.86m (1,666 ft) in the northwest), but we don’t know how to use it positively… perhaps someone has a good idea so we can take advantage of it
- The kitchen island is shown as 60cm (24 inches) in the plan, but will actually be 1.10m (43 inches) wide – hence the space between the chairs and the kitchen island
So, here comes my two cents.
Pantry:
I’m definitely a fan of having direct access from the garage to the pantry, if that’s possible. However, you should keep in mind that the door will need to meet specific fire protection requirements! Otherwise, it certainly has its charm, even though it’s often judged negatively here. That said, with the additional door, you basically lose almost all usable space in the pantry. Also, personally, I would find it disturbing if the pantry has no window. I use the pantry a lot, and especially in winter, it’s like a second refrigerator when I slightly open the window. For example, cookies can cool down perfectly there without getting in the way in the kitchen.
Kitchen:
I consider placing the refrigerator in a niche far away from the main kitchen activity to be a major planning mistake. Did your kitchen designer not say anything about this? If not, I’d seriously think about finding a different kitchen planner. Or maybe your intention was to walk so many kilometers while cooking that you can eat afterward without guilt! From that perspective, the 1.8m (6 feet) distance between the freestanding kitchen unit (I wouldn’t call it an island in this case) and the kitchen counter along the wall would make sense. But otherwise, it doesn’t. As the kitchen is now, you’ll be walking yourself tired. Like I said, if that’s not your plan, I would design the kitchen entirely differently:
Plan the refrigerator as part of the cooking area—either integrated into the wall line or extend the pantry and place the pantry door where the refrigerator is currently, with the refrigerator placed where the door is now (this would also help with the layout of the vestibule, hallway, pantry, and downstairs WC).
Make the freestanding kitchen unit a real island: move it away from the wall! Depth 125–130cm (49–51 inches), so you can have 60cm (24 inches) deep cabinets on both sides, leaving space in the middle for plumbing. I’d place the island about 1–1.5m (3–5 feet) away from the wall, centered in the room (you have enough space!), which shifts the cooking area more toward the center. Then a refrigerator where the pantry door is now, or even where it currently stands, is easily accessible. You can also consider making the wall a functional area for the kitchen, for example, placing the oven (if planned at hip or chest height) and a steam oven there, if desired. The pantry door can be nicely integrated into such a kitchen front.
Other advantages: you can plan the terrace door freely, maybe even make it larger, and someone entering from outside wouldn’t have to walk through the entire kitchen but could go straight into the living area without disturbing those working in the kitchen.
Personally, I’m a fan of having the cooktop on the kitchen island, because it’s great for cooking together. But that’s really a matter of taste. In any case (whether the island has a cooktop or not), with such a generously sized island, I would include a small additional sink. This makes work much easier when you don’t have to leave the main work area every time for handwashing, rinsing dishcloths, washing vegetables, filling pots, etc. A small basin is enough; the main sink can remain in the kitchen counter at the wall, where larger tasks (washing salad, cleaning pots, etc.) can be done.
Vestibule, Hallway, Pantry, WC:
I find the layout, to put it mildly, suboptimal. You’re wasting so much space!
The hallway is separated from the living area by doors, so what’s the point of having a separate vestibule? Either you design the area around the staircase open to the living space (which also has its charm), or you leave it as is, but then you don’t need a separate vestibule. I would move the garage slightly more northward (if possible), give the pantry a window, move the entrance door to the right where the WC is currently located—basically in the middle of the room now—and move the toilet to the right wall towards the garage. This will ease the cramped entrance area, allow you to size the pantry differently, and get rid of the previously mentioned bottleneck between vestibule and hallway. Overall, more space remains in the hallway/vestibule because the toilet is out of the center. You could also think about elongating the WC a bit and adjusting the pantry layout accordingly. I believe this way you can use the space much more efficiently.
Laundry in the basement:
Personally, I think that’s complete nonsense: bringing dirty laundry down (okay, you’re planning a laundry chute, so that will be faster), but then carrying the washed laundry back upstairs to hang it outside, then downstairs again for ironing, and finally back upstairs to the bedrooms. Phew...
I can see you're planning a very ambitious, athletic house.
I’m lazier.
In the past, laundry rooms were in the basement because they were often damp. With modern appliances, that’s no longer an issue, and I would definitely plan a small utility room on the upper floor where the washer and dryer are located and possibly enough space for a drying rack. You could also conveniently combine this with a small second bathroom. Your children are still little but will become teenagers, and then you’ll notice how valuable a second bathroom is!
If you want to keep the open space above, there is enough room there for such a utility room. Think about it again.
And if you insist on keeping it open, then at least make it a room: why close it off from the upstairs hallway? I’d plan it as a gallery without a window. But that’s really a matter of taste.
Overall, I would give up the open space in favor of a utility room/second bathroom and reconsider the entire layout of the upper floor.
Pantry:
I’m definitely a fan of having direct access from the garage to the pantry, if that’s possible. However, you should keep in mind that the door will need to meet specific fire protection requirements! Otherwise, it certainly has its charm, even though it’s often judged negatively here. That said, with the additional door, you basically lose almost all usable space in the pantry. Also, personally, I would find it disturbing if the pantry has no window. I use the pantry a lot, and especially in winter, it’s like a second refrigerator when I slightly open the window. For example, cookies can cool down perfectly there without getting in the way in the kitchen.
Kitchen:
I consider placing the refrigerator in a niche far away from the main kitchen activity to be a major planning mistake. Did your kitchen designer not say anything about this? If not, I’d seriously think about finding a different kitchen planner. Or maybe your intention was to walk so many kilometers while cooking that you can eat afterward without guilt! From that perspective, the 1.8m (6 feet) distance between the freestanding kitchen unit (I wouldn’t call it an island in this case) and the kitchen counter along the wall would make sense. But otherwise, it doesn’t. As the kitchen is now, you’ll be walking yourself tired. Like I said, if that’s not your plan, I would design the kitchen entirely differently:
Plan the refrigerator as part of the cooking area—either integrated into the wall line or extend the pantry and place the pantry door where the refrigerator is currently, with the refrigerator placed where the door is now (this would also help with the layout of the vestibule, hallway, pantry, and downstairs WC).
Make the freestanding kitchen unit a real island: move it away from the wall! Depth 125–130cm (49–51 inches), so you can have 60cm (24 inches) deep cabinets on both sides, leaving space in the middle for plumbing. I’d place the island about 1–1.5m (3–5 feet) away from the wall, centered in the room (you have enough space!), which shifts the cooking area more toward the center. Then a refrigerator where the pantry door is now, or even where it currently stands, is easily accessible. You can also consider making the wall a functional area for the kitchen, for example, placing the oven (if planned at hip or chest height) and a steam oven there, if desired. The pantry door can be nicely integrated into such a kitchen front.
Other advantages: you can plan the terrace door freely, maybe even make it larger, and someone entering from outside wouldn’t have to walk through the entire kitchen but could go straight into the living area without disturbing those working in the kitchen.
Personally, I’m a fan of having the cooktop on the kitchen island, because it’s great for cooking together. But that’s really a matter of taste. In any case (whether the island has a cooktop or not), with such a generously sized island, I would include a small additional sink. This makes work much easier when you don’t have to leave the main work area every time for handwashing, rinsing dishcloths, washing vegetables, filling pots, etc. A small basin is enough; the main sink can remain in the kitchen counter at the wall, where larger tasks (washing salad, cleaning pots, etc.) can be done.
Vestibule, Hallway, Pantry, WC:
I find the layout, to put it mildly, suboptimal. You’re wasting so much space!
The hallway is separated from the living area by doors, so what’s the point of having a separate vestibule? Either you design the area around the staircase open to the living space (which also has its charm), or you leave it as is, but then you don’t need a separate vestibule. I would move the garage slightly more northward (if possible), give the pantry a window, move the entrance door to the right where the WC is currently located—basically in the middle of the room now—and move the toilet to the right wall towards the garage. This will ease the cramped entrance area, allow you to size the pantry differently, and get rid of the previously mentioned bottleneck between vestibule and hallway. Overall, more space remains in the hallway/vestibule because the toilet is out of the center. You could also think about elongating the WC a bit and adjusting the pantry layout accordingly. I believe this way you can use the space much more efficiently.
Laundry in the basement:
Personally, I think that’s complete nonsense: bringing dirty laundry down (okay, you’re planning a laundry chute, so that will be faster), but then carrying the washed laundry back upstairs to hang it outside, then downstairs again for ironing, and finally back upstairs to the bedrooms. Phew...
I can see you're planning a very ambitious, athletic house.
I’m lazier.
In the past, laundry rooms were in the basement because they were often damp. With modern appliances, that’s no longer an issue, and I would definitely plan a small utility room on the upper floor where the washer and dryer are located and possibly enough space for a drying rack. You could also conveniently combine this with a small second bathroom. Your children are still little but will become teenagers, and then you’ll notice how valuable a second bathroom is!
If you want to keep the open space above, there is enough room there for such a utility room. Think about it again.
And if you insist on keeping it open, then at least make it a room: why close it off from the upstairs hallway? I’d plan it as a gallery without a window. But that’s really a matter of taste.
Overall, I would give up the open space in favor of a utility room/second bathroom and reconsider the entire layout of the upper floor.
Oh, and one more tip from me:
Right now, it’s quite trendy to design a counter area on the kitchen island. I’m passionate about cooking and find this raised section for sitting on bar stools really impractical!
If you like to cook together, you lose one side of the island as a workspace. Also, you can’t plan the island to be very deep—only as deep as you can comfortably reach from one side. I don’t know how you’ve planned it, but I always recommend letting the countertop slightly overhang on one side and placing two regular-height stools there. When not in use, you can slide the stools under the overhang and still use the area as a normal workspace. If you want, you can also sit there comfortably for a quick snack or, for example, to sit down while chopping vegetables.
Besides, my little one really doesn’t like bar stools. For me, climbing up those silly things feels like a semi-mountain expedition, and I’ve already given up on looking elegant while doing it...
But that’s just my personal issue.
Right now, it’s quite trendy to design a counter area on the kitchen island. I’m passionate about cooking and find this raised section for sitting on bar stools really impractical!
If you like to cook together, you lose one side of the island as a workspace. Also, you can’t plan the island to be very deep—only as deep as you can comfortably reach from one side. I don’t know how you’ve planned it, but I always recommend letting the countertop slightly overhang on one side and placing two regular-height stools there. When not in use, you can slide the stools under the overhang and still use the area as a normal workspace. If you want, you can also sit there comfortably for a quick snack or, for example, to sit down while chopping vegetables.
Besides, my little one really doesn’t like bar stools. For me, climbing up those silly things feels like a semi-mountain expedition, and I’ve already given up on looking elegant while doing it...
But that’s just my personal issue.
M
Mike1234567890128 Jul 2016 12:00kbt09 schrieb:
Why do you assume a 2m (6.5 ft) setback on the left side? Isn’t the requirement either 0 or 3 m (10 ft)?
And on the right side, 3 m (10 ft) distance measured from the wall, but with the roof overhang, it could be more. The land is already about 100 cm (40 inches) higher 5 m (16 ft) away from the street and still rising. That will make a driveway difficult, since the garden exit should be level with the ground—or not? At that point, the ground is even around 180 to 200 cm (71 to 79 inches) higher than at the street front.
What is the general planning approach here? I would strongly recommend involving an architect. An architect, not just a planner from any construction company. I don’t know the exact setback, but boundary construction rules apply, and in my opinion, the garage can be placed close to the neighbor. For example, the western neighbor has a 1.60 m (5.25 ft) setback from our property. I think it depends on the height (garage in this case).
For the garage, I was thinking of a driveway (not an entrance driveway) that slopes slightly upward from the street.
An architect is not excluded at this point. Our construction company has built several houses in this development, all on similar slopes. Let’s first see what they say..
M
Mike1234567890128 Jul 2016 12:07Climbee schrieb:
Oh, and one more tip from me:
Right now, it’s quite trendy to design a raised counter area on the kitchen island. As an avid cook, I find this elevation, meant for sitting on bar stools, simply impractical! When you like to cook together, you lose one side of the island as a workspace. Also, the island can’t be as deep, only as deep as you can reach from one side. I don’t know how you planned it, but I always recommend letting the countertop slightly overhang on one side and placing two regular-height stools there. When not in use, you can slide the stools under the overhanging countertop and use the area as a normal work surface. If you want, you can also sit there comfortably for a quick snack or for activities like chopping vegetables.
Also, I don’t like bar stools for little kids at all. To me, it’s almost like a mini alpine climb to get up on those silly things, and I’ve already given up on trying to look elegant doing that...
But that’s just my personal issue. For us, it won’t be a raised counter but simply an extended countertop. Just so we can also cook with the children. Exactly as you described it — that was our plan too.
Mike12345678901 schrieb:
So, for us, these are not going to be bars but rather an extended countertop. Mainly to make it easier to cook together with the kids. Just like you described them – that was exactly our plan. Very good!That puts me at ease. If I ever get the chance to visit you, I can sit on the stools comfortably without having to endure any awkward climbing.
Very appealing!
M
Mike1234567890128 Jul 2016 12:21@Climbee
Thank you very much for your detailed post.
I need to read through everything and process it first... it might take a bit of time as I have an appointment shortly.
Thank you very much for your detailed post.
I need to read through everything and process it first... it might take a bit of time as I have an appointment shortly.
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