ᐅ Floor plan design for a single-family house with basement and garage/carport

Created on: 31 Dec 2019 13:07
F
fly-kai
Hello,

we have been working on the final layout planning for a solid brick house for almost half a year now. We have already discussed the floor plan with our preferred builder, and will soon have talks with the actual architect.
We would actually like to make the house a bit smaller, but then we lack space on the upper floor. Maybe someone has a suggestion here.

Development plan / Restrictions
Plot size: 850 m² (9149 sq ft)
Slope: no
Number of floors: 2 full floors
Roof type: hip roof / pyramid roof
Style: urban villa
Orientation: house and plot face south

Homeowners’ requirements
2 children’s bedrooms
open kitchen / living / dining area
Number of floors: 2 full floors + basement for utility room, sauna, workshop, etc.
Number of residents: 2 adults + 1 or 2 children
Guest WC on the ground floor, but without shower; this will be in the basement near the sauna later
Guests per year: practically zero
modern construction method
open kitchen with island
fireplace as room divider (between living and dining area) or built into the wall as shown in the plan
single prefabricated garage with covered walkway to the house = carport

House design
What do we like / dislike?
The bay window on the ground floor (living room bottom/right) is not really necessary, but without it the exterior looks quite boring. One idea would be to move the bay window to the upper floor (same position in x and y) to create a larger children’s room. I think the costs for this would be quite high, though.

Preferred heating technology:
The house will be a solid brick house with 36.5 cm (14 inches) thick bricks. Gas is available at the planned plot. We are undecided between an air-to-water heat pump or a conventional gas boiler with solar thermal system. I have already compared a lot, but in the end, operating costs seem roughly the same. What would you recommend?

If you had to give up something, which details / expansions?
– the bay window

Why is the design like this? For example:
We reviewed many floor plans and adapted one to our needs.

What is the most important / fundamental question about the floor plan in 130 characters?
Is this floor plan practical? How could it be made smaller without losing too much space on the upper floor?

Kind regards,
Kai

Floor plan: central hallway, office right, workshop top, utility room left, sauna left, stairwell bottom

Floor plan: garage for two cars left, entrance area, hallway, pantry, living/dining, terrace.

Floor plan of living area: master bedroom, two children’s rooms, bathroom, walk-in closet and hallway.
K
kbt09
31 Dec 2019 14:34
I also consider doors with a rough opening size of 80 cm (31.5 inches) to be too narrow.
11ant31 Dec 2019 15:10
Well, I don’t just see the dimensions here to round off and just so, hello @all, this was my last "final" floor plan for this year.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
kaho67431 Dec 2019 16:35
When it comes to minimizing the square meters on the ground floor, the bay window could also be positioned like this:


2D floor plan of a house with dining area, living room, hallway, and WC

Then build over it above. Whether this makes a financial difference is questionable, if that was the reason.
Y
ypg
31 Dec 2019 16:36
fly-kai schrieb:

I drew the staircase as 2 x 2 meters (6.6 x 6.6 feet). That should be roughly right for a half-turned staircase, right?

I see 2.20 x 2.40 meters (7.2 x 7.9 feet) as the smallest stairwell. Anything smaller I would only consider as a last resort.
-XIII- schrieb:

A lot of it looks really tight...

I suspected it: without exact dimensions, the kitchen already feels very awkward, cramped, and lacks enough cabinet and storage space. A kitchen island isn’t everything a kitchen needs. If we subtract a general allowance of 1 meter (3.3 feet) for the door from the 3.60 meters (11.8 feet) exterior dimension, that leaves 2.60 meters (8.5 feet) for the cabinets along the long side.
The corner doesn’t work well either when you’re in the kitchen. You might even have to squeeze a second person in there because otherwise there’s no space for two people at the workspace.
For the island itself, if we subtract 70 cm (28 inches) for the refrigerator and 1 meter (3.3 feet) for a walkway from the 3.60 meters (11.8 feet), it will be 1.90 meters (6.2 feet) long, leaving an inner leg length of 1.30 meters (4.3 feet).

The chimney on the ground floor is very inconveniently placed, but it doesn’t even appear on the upper floor.
The walk-in closet is too small, yes... oh dear... with these dimensions, I don’t see it working out.
F
fly-kai
31 Dec 2019 17:17
Hey,

thanks in advance for the replies.
Let me go through this step by step:
Walk-in closet: The wardrobes are drawn with a depth of 60cm (24 inches), which means there is about 90cm (36 inches) of space between them. Is that enough, or would it be better to widen it to 110cm (43 inches)?
We could move the right wall of the bedroom to achieve this.

Kitchen:
The countertop on the left is 2m (6.6 feet), which is correct. Is that too little? That’s what we have now, and that’s without an additional "cooking island."
To create more space for two people, the island could be pushed further into the room (to the right).
It might also be possible to move the bottom wall further down, thus slightly reducing the hallway and pantry. The hallway is currently 1.5m (5 feet) wide.

Fireplace:
That’s true, of course. As I said, originally it was supposed to stand simply in front of the wall, so the chimney wouldn’t be in front of the stairs. On the upper floor, the chimney would then need to be placed inside one of the children’s rooms.

Wishing you all a Happy New Year.

Best regards,
Kai
Y
ypg
31 Dec 2019 18:22
fly-kai schrieb:

The cabinets are designed with a 60cm (24 inch) depth, meaning there is about 90cm (36 inch) of space between the cabinets. Is that enough, or should it be widened to 110cm (43 inch)?

You have probably designed with RBM now. Cabinets don’t sit directly against the wall; some space for wall clearance (ZM) should or must be left. Then the carcass is 60cm (24 inch), and the doors are added separately.
fly-kai schrieb:

You could move the right wall of the bedroom.


You could... but then you end up with a corner like the one in front of the stairs. Such corners should generally be avoided with a good layout, so there’s no strong reason to keep it. By the way, masons used to charge corner premiums in the past...
fly-kai schrieb:

Maybe you could also move the lower wall further down,


You like to move things... but where there’s a gap, it gets tight somewhere else.
fly-kai schrieb:

That’s true, of course. As I said, originally it was supposed to stand just in front of the wall so the chimney wouldn’t be in front of the stairs. Upstairs, the chimney would then have to be accommodated in one of the children’s rooms.


No, the chimney doesn’t seem to fit here at all, because the children’s rooms also have doors. I don’t see any moving options there either.

I definitely don’t see any significant reduction of the necessary living spaces, but the workshop and sauna could be discussed. I like that.

I also want to wish all active users a Happy New Year—stay healthy and cherish your loved ones <3