ᐅ Floor plan design, two full stories, approximately 130–140 square meters without a basement
Created on: 29 Jul 2021 16:45
P
prm2021
Hello everyone,
We are planning to build a house on a 600 m2 (approximately 6,460 sq ft) plot with a west-facing approach (a dead-end street). Unfortunately, the garage can only be located on the west side (as shown in the picture).
I will soon discuss the preliminary design with the architect. According to the regulations in my country, the original project cannot be changed later on.
According to the zoning plan, we must build an enclosed garage (2 parking spaces per dwelling, with 50% of them in an enclosed garage). This increases our construction costs, so we have to reduce the “ideal” size of 150 m2 (approximately 1,615 sq ft) by about 10-15 m2 (approximately 110-160 sq ft) and, of course, without a basement.
I have read many forums and found that the most important thing is that the living and dining rooms are not narrower than 4 meters (approximately 13 feet) and have at least 35 m2 (approximately 375 sq ft). We will spend 90% of our time there and in the kitchen.
We want an open kitchen facing east with as much natural light as possible (preferably in a two-row layout). We want the utility room to be at least 10 m2 (approximately 108 sq ft), the stairs to be as comfortable as possible without taking up too much space, and a guest toilet without a shower. In front of it, there would be a wardrobe (for an Ikea PAX depth 70 cm (27.5 inches)).
Upstairs, we would like natural light in the hallway, two children's rooms of about 13-14 m2 each (approximately 140-150 sq ft), facing south, and a bedroom facing northeast, where we need to place my wife’s Ikea PAX wardrobe measuring 200x70x240 cm (79x27.5x94 inches). In the bedroom, my wardrobe should also be placed, but it can be smaller than my wife’s.
I would like to build two full floors in a rectangular shape with a gabled roof, similar to Jaydee’s floor plan attached (of similar width and length), although her plan is not two full floors.
My wife would like two bathrooms or a guest WC with a shower. I’m assuring her that one bathroom with two sinks will be enough.
I apologize for my poor German. I have been following your forum for months and have learned a lot. Thank you for any help.
We are planning to build a house on a 600 m2 (approximately 6,460 sq ft) plot with a west-facing approach (a dead-end street). Unfortunately, the garage can only be located on the west side (as shown in the picture).
I will soon discuss the preliminary design with the architect. According to the regulations in my country, the original project cannot be changed later on.
According to the zoning plan, we must build an enclosed garage (2 parking spaces per dwelling, with 50% of them in an enclosed garage). This increases our construction costs, so we have to reduce the “ideal” size of 150 m2 (approximately 1,615 sq ft) by about 10-15 m2 (approximately 110-160 sq ft) and, of course, without a basement.
I have read many forums and found that the most important thing is that the living and dining rooms are not narrower than 4 meters (approximately 13 feet) and have at least 35 m2 (approximately 375 sq ft). We will spend 90% of our time there and in the kitchen.
We want an open kitchen facing east with as much natural light as possible (preferably in a two-row layout). We want the utility room to be at least 10 m2 (approximately 108 sq ft), the stairs to be as comfortable as possible without taking up too much space, and a guest toilet without a shower. In front of it, there would be a wardrobe (for an Ikea PAX depth 70 cm (27.5 inches)).
Upstairs, we would like natural light in the hallway, two children's rooms of about 13-14 m2 each (approximately 140-150 sq ft), facing south, and a bedroom facing northeast, where we need to place my wife’s Ikea PAX wardrobe measuring 200x70x240 cm (79x27.5x94 inches). In the bedroom, my wardrobe should also be placed, but it can be smaller than my wife’s.
I would like to build two full floors in a rectangular shape with a gabled roof, similar to Jaydee’s floor plan attached (of similar width and length), although her plan is not two full floors.
My wife would like two bathrooms or a guest WC with a shower. I’m assuring her that one bathroom with two sinks will be enough.
I apologize for my poor German. I have been following your forum for months and have learned a lot. Thank you for any help.
borxx schrieb:
Overall, there is one load-bearing wall on the ground floor in my layman's opinion, specifically south of the staircase. The 10cm (5 inches) walls (what material is planned?) are probably not even capable of concealing an appropriate beam or stud. This is a 20cm (8 inches) wall—it is at least marked as 20 in the drawing.
It was unclear—a 200mm (8 inches) wall next to the stairs and only there ([~3m (10 feet) long), if I’m reading the plan correctly. All other walls are only 100mm (4 inches).
This means the ceiling north of the stairs would have to span the entire width (~9m (30 feet)). That’s not going to be easy and doesn’t make sense at all, since there are enough walls to support it. On the other hand, a 200mm (8 inches) wall continues in the upper floor at the children’s rooms...
Or is the dashed line meant to indicate a beam between the kitchen and dining room? Overall, it’s quite confusing or just beyond my level of understanding.
The wall thicknesses are unusual as well! Common thicknesses here are 115mm (4.5 inches) or 175mm (7 inches) for interior walls made of masonry, and 365mm (14.5 inches) or 425mm (17 inches) for exterior walls.
If you’re tied to the architect, I would recommend trying to identify as many “issues” as possible and only give the guy the floor plan for “approval.” Be careful—today I just sent revised plans to our architect because I had to correct almost 30% of the measurements, as they were only “almost correct” regarding things like inconsistent measurement chains or differently specified door openings.
By the way, the square footage numbers don’t seem to have been properly updated either—at least the utility room (northeast) and cloakroom don’t seem to match in my opinion.
This means the ceiling north of the stairs would have to span the entire width (~9m (30 feet)). That’s not going to be easy and doesn’t make sense at all, since there are enough walls to support it. On the other hand, a 200mm (8 inches) wall continues in the upper floor at the children’s rooms...
Or is the dashed line meant to indicate a beam between the kitchen and dining room? Overall, it’s quite confusing or just beyond my level of understanding.
The wall thicknesses are unusual as well! Common thicknesses here are 115mm (4.5 inches) or 175mm (7 inches) for interior walls made of masonry, and 365mm (14.5 inches) or 425mm (17 inches) for exterior walls.
If you’re tied to the architect, I would recommend trying to identify as many “issues” as possible and only give the guy the floor plan for “approval.” Be careful—today I just sent revised plans to our architect because I had to correct almost 30% of the measurements, as they were only “almost correct” regarding things like inconsistent measurement chains or differently specified door openings.
By the way, the square footage numbers don’t seem to have been properly updated either—at least the utility room (northeast) and cloakroom don’t seem to match in my opinion.
borxx schrieb:
It was unclear—a 20cm (8 inch) wall next to the stairs and only there ([~3m (10 feet) long]), if I’m reading the plan correctly. All other walls are just 10cm (4 inch).
So the ceiling north of the stairs would have to span the full width (~9m (30 feet)). That won’t be easy and doesn’t make sense at all, since there are enough walls available. On the other hand, a 20cm (8 inch) wall continues in the upper floor at the children’s rooms...
Or should the dashed line indicate a beam between the kitchen and dining room? Overall, it’s quite confusing or maybe just too complex for me. I think the dashed line in the kitchen indicates a load-bearing wall. And also above the children’s rooms.
borxx schrieb:
By the way, the square meter figures don’t seem to have been properly “updated” either—at least the utility room? (northeast) and the cloakroom don’t seem to match, in my opinion. Thank you!
borxx schrieb:
The wall dimensions are unusual as well! Commonly, here in this country, interior walls are 11.5 or 17.5 centimeters (4.5 or 7 inches) thick when made of masonry, and exterior walls are 36.5 or 42.5 centimeters (14.4 or 16.7 inches).Yes, in this country. The construction site is near Zagreb / Croatia.https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
prm2021 schrieb:
Thank you!The square meter figures don’t really matter at this stage; there are more important things. However, I’m not sure what the goal is now. Forcing the staircase to be moved no matter what, even if nothing fits upstairs anymore?ypg schrieb:
The square meter numbers don’t really matter at first; there are more important things.
However, I’m not sure what the goal is now? Forcing the staircase to be moved so nothing fits upstairs anymore? I would like the staircase to be smaller, but I’m not sure if that’s possible. Is it allowed for the staircase to be less than 6 sqm (64.6 sq ft) in size? My idea was to have the utility room near the staircase and the guest toilet and cloakroom in the northeast. Sorry if I misunderstood anything.
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