ᐅ Floor Plan and Orientation of a Gable Roof House: Experiences?
Created on: 22 Aug 2021 15:29
B
BernieB
Hello, I’m interested in your opinions on our project described below:
1. About us:
2 adults (30 years old). No children planned.
2. Our space requirements:
- Living/dining area
- Separate, closed kitchen
- Bedroom
- Bathroom
- 2 offices (one used as home office)
- Guest WC
- Utility/technical room (HTR)
- Storage space within the house as a basement alternative & usable crawl space
- 1.5- to double garage with a small workshop
- Covered main terrace on the southeast side & secondary terrace on the southwest side
3. Preferred house style:
- Approximately 125-130 m² (1,345-1,400 sq ft)
- 1.5 stories (max. 1 full story allowed by the building regulations / planning permission)
- Traditional rectangular shape with a pitched roof, ridge oriented southeast-northwest for photovoltaic panels on the southwest side
- Timber frame construction or solid (masonry), depending on price; cost estimates are still pending. Do you have experience including the current steep increase in building material prices?
4. Desired additional features:
- Roofed terrace on the southeast side
- Barrier-reduced / accessible design
5. Building regulations / constraints:
- Building gap (vacant lot)
- Plot size: 660 m² (7,100 sq ft)
- Approx. 4% slope, descending from southwest to northeast → about 0.5 m (1.6 ft) height difference on a 10x10 m (33x33 ft) footprint
Building regulations / planning:
- 1 full story, floor area ratio 0.3, floor space index 0.3, open building form
- Building setback: 3 m (10 ft) from the street on the east, 5 m (16 ft) from the street on the south
No other restrictions
6. Planned building services:
- KfW 55 energy standard if the additional investment costs are covered by subsidies
We are still undecided about the actual technical systems. Preferably as cost-effective in initial purchase as possible, but also economically viable over 20 years.
Considerations:
- Air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating featuring a low flow temperature and photovoltaic readiness (to be implemented later after 5 years with government funding, if the house is then considered existing property)
We would like to use the popular J-Geisha Panasonic Aquarea WH-MDC05J3E5, but it’s uncertain if the general contractor (GC) will accommodate individual requests.
- Undecided whether to include a controlled ventilation system or not
Recommendation from the GC:
- Air heating with controlled ventilation
Ideas on this topic are very welcome.
7. House design:
DIY, but strongly based on a general contractor’s floor plan (at least on the ground floor)
8. Cost estimate:
300,000 euros (approximately) for the house only (excluding landscaping, garage, and kitchen) in the Lower Saxony region
Is this roughly at the lower end given current price developments? We want to build cost-conscious without much extra.
9. Questions:
- Is a kitchen door under the stairs practical? We want to create storage space under the stairs (for example, as a pantry).
- Is the layout of the utility/technical room (HTR) unfavorable for the technical requirements?
- Is the bathroom layout sensible? (We do not want a bathtub, but a large walk-in shower approx. 1 x 1.4 m (3.3 x 4.6 ft))
- Are the positions of the doors practical? Are the doors on the first floor too cramped, or is the space generally sufficient?
- Are windows in the crawl space useful to prevent mold and reduce moisture? Or how would you solve this?
- We would be interested to hear your overall opinion of the floor plan and which orientation on the plot you would prefer (and why). We have two possible orientations in mind: parallel to the street or parallel to the neighbor.
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the street:
- From the living area, the garden is visible through the large window front in the center
- Easier to comply with setback distances (with the other option, the eaves side would be 3 m (10 ft) from the western neighbor and the street. If the eaves height exceeds 6 meters (about 20 ft) (which is likely), the 3 m setback to the west neighbor would not be sufficient)
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the neighbor:
- Garage is easier to realize (otherwise oblique angles = more expensive, or an unused triangular area towards the north neighbor)
1. About us:
2 adults (30 years old). No children planned.
2. Our space requirements:
- Living/dining area
- Separate, closed kitchen
- Bedroom
- Bathroom
- 2 offices (one used as home office)
- Guest WC
- Utility/technical room (HTR)
- Storage space within the house as a basement alternative & usable crawl space
- 1.5- to double garage with a small workshop
- Covered main terrace on the southeast side & secondary terrace on the southwest side
3. Preferred house style:
- Approximately 125-130 m² (1,345-1,400 sq ft)
- 1.5 stories (max. 1 full story allowed by the building regulations / planning permission)
- Traditional rectangular shape with a pitched roof, ridge oriented southeast-northwest for photovoltaic panels on the southwest side
- Timber frame construction or solid (masonry), depending on price; cost estimates are still pending. Do you have experience including the current steep increase in building material prices?
4. Desired additional features:
- Roofed terrace on the southeast side
- Barrier-reduced / accessible design
5. Building regulations / constraints:
- Building gap (vacant lot)
- Plot size: 660 m² (7,100 sq ft)
- Approx. 4% slope, descending from southwest to northeast → about 0.5 m (1.6 ft) height difference on a 10x10 m (33x33 ft) footprint
Building regulations / planning:
- 1 full story, floor area ratio 0.3, floor space index 0.3, open building form
- Building setback: 3 m (10 ft) from the street on the east, 5 m (16 ft) from the street on the south
No other restrictions
6. Planned building services:
- KfW 55 energy standard if the additional investment costs are covered by subsidies
We are still undecided about the actual technical systems. Preferably as cost-effective in initial purchase as possible, but also economically viable over 20 years.
Considerations:
- Air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating featuring a low flow temperature and photovoltaic readiness (to be implemented later after 5 years with government funding, if the house is then considered existing property)
We would like to use the popular J-Geisha Panasonic Aquarea WH-MDC05J3E5, but it’s uncertain if the general contractor (GC) will accommodate individual requests.
- Undecided whether to include a controlled ventilation system or not
Recommendation from the GC:
- Air heating with controlled ventilation
Ideas on this topic are very welcome.
7. House design:
DIY, but strongly based on a general contractor’s floor plan (at least on the ground floor)
8. Cost estimate:
300,000 euros (approximately) for the house only (excluding landscaping, garage, and kitchen) in the Lower Saxony region
Is this roughly at the lower end given current price developments? We want to build cost-conscious without much extra.
9. Questions:
- Is a kitchen door under the stairs practical? We want to create storage space under the stairs (for example, as a pantry).
- Is the layout of the utility/technical room (HTR) unfavorable for the technical requirements?
- Is the bathroom layout sensible? (We do not want a bathtub, but a large walk-in shower approx. 1 x 1.4 m (3.3 x 4.6 ft))
- Are the positions of the doors practical? Are the doors on the first floor too cramped, or is the space generally sufficient?
- Are windows in the crawl space useful to prevent mold and reduce moisture? Or how would you solve this?
- We would be interested to hear your overall opinion of the floor plan and which orientation on the plot you would prefer (and why). We have two possible orientations in mind: parallel to the street or parallel to the neighbor.
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the street:
- From the living area, the garden is visible through the large window front in the center
- Easier to comply with setback distances (with the other option, the eaves side would be 3 m (10 ft) from the western neighbor and the street. If the eaves height exceeds 6 meters (about 20 ft) (which is likely), the 3 m setback to the west neighbor would not be sufficient)
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the neighbor:
- Garage is easier to realize (otherwise oblique angles = more expensive, or an unused triangular area towards the north neighbor)
Thank you all for your feedback.
We also find a bungalow interesting. However, that might be tricky with the site coverage ratio limit (0.3). And I would like to have enough garden space left.
What would be the best way to save money on the garage?
I was advised that a corrugated metal garage is an affordable option and is quite acceptable.
The house really is "boring." It doesn’t have any real “eye-catchers.” But that doesn’t bother us.
Why would the kitchen be hard to furnish? With only one window side and the room size? What have I overlooked?
We are not tied to any developer. We just liked the floor plan, so we took it as a working version.
Local providers (around Hildesheim, south of Hannover) would be very welcome. I am happy to get recommendations. For a local builder, we were given “Meister....” from Hameln, for example.
We also find a bungalow interesting. However, that might be tricky with the site coverage ratio limit (0.3). And I would like to have enough garden space left.
hampshire schrieb:
Potential savings might be possible with the garage, which accounts for a relatively high cost share considering your tight budget.
What would be the best way to save money on the garage?
I was advised that a corrugated metal garage is an affordable option and is quite acceptable.
evelinoz schrieb:
The kitchen is hardly furnishable; the house seems boring.
The house really is "boring." It doesn’t have any real “eye-catchers.” But that doesn’t bother us.
Why would the kitchen be hard to furnish? With only one window side and the room size? What have I overlooked?
ypg schrieb:
Does it have to be built by Heinz von Heiden, or would using another general contractor be possible?
What about a local builder?
hampshire schrieb:
Or a local carpentry company that builds turnkey houses...
We are not tied to any developer. We just liked the floor plan, so we took it as a working version.
Local providers (around Hildesheim, south of Hannover) would be very welcome. I am happy to get recommendations. For a local builder, we were given “Meister....” from Hameln, for example.
We built with Nurda (Burgwedel). They were fairly affordable but reliable. I just noticed that their website has been significantly slimmed down 🙁
It seems you now have to order catalogs to get more information.
Well, with 0.3 you really don’t need to worry. And not with that plot size either. Are you planning to plant a huge garden farm there? It probably won’t be for playground equipment either 😉
It seems you now have to order catalogs to get more information.
BernieB schrieb:
That could be tricky with the sealed ground area (site coverage ratio of 0.3). And I would still like to have enough garden space left.
Well, with 0.3 you really don’t need to worry. And not with that plot size either. Are you planning to plant a huge garden farm there? It probably won’t be for playground equipment either 😉
ypg schrieb:
We built with Nurda (Burgwedel). They were quite affordable, but reliable. Thanks for the tip. It’s not that far away either.ypg schrieb:
Well, with 0.3 you don’t really need to worry. Even with a terrace, garage, parking spaces, and driveway? From a rough calculation, I had the impression that with 1.5 stories we would be pretty close.We don’t want a large-scale development, but we do want to enjoy some green space (pond, peaceful greenery, and fruit/vegetable garden).
BernieB schrieb:
Garage, parking spaces, and driveway?… are included in the floor area ratio unless the development plan explicitly states otherwise.
BernieB schrieb:
I was advised that a corrugated metal garage is an affordable option and generally decent. I have two steel panel garages; they are fine for cars but less suitable for furniture and files. A big advantage is that if you want to upgrade later, they can be resold with low depreciation to buyers who pick them up themselves, which is not the case with concrete garages.
BernieB schrieb:
We are not tied to any developer. We just liked the floor plan, so we took it as a "working version." This is often pointless here for two reasons: first, the house design itself has already been reasonably questioned; second, I see a transgenic floor plan donation (a stone house floor plan possibly implemented by a timber frame builder) as not being the ultimate solution either.
BernieB schrieb:
Local providers (in the Hildesheim area, south of Hanover) would be very welcome. I’m happy to receive recommendations. There is a whole category dedicated to that here (experiences with builders), your region is not uncommon and has likely already been discussed.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Take a look at the floor plans of the family houses from Viebrockhaus Maxime 120 and 200. You might consider reversing the layout and closing off the kitchen. The staircase mentioned in the green forum is also installed there.
I would be frustrated for life by a knee wall that is too low and would not plan for anything less than at least 125cm (49 inches).
Alternative: the Bungalow V7B reversed.
But if you don’t have a building contract anyway, I would take some time to look at standard house models from regional builders.
The floor area ratio applies to the house including the terrace….
There are families who manage to create a nice family garden on 450sqm (4844 sq ft) – with 660sqm (7104 sq ft) there is no need to struggle.
I understand that the 300,000 including additional construction costs must cover everything?
Am I correct in this?
I think it is wrong to start discussing savings on the garage and similar items now. Perhaps first consider the basic cost calculation, whether it holds up to reality, and whether you are really assuming that a catalogue price is also the final price for the house. There are enough topics here in the forum discussing current construction prices realistically. Also, I do not see photovoltaics included in the price here.
I would be frustrated for life by a knee wall that is too low and would not plan for anything less than at least 125cm (49 inches).
Alternative: the Bungalow V7B reversed.
But if you don’t have a building contract anyway, I would take some time to look at standard house models from regional builders.
The floor area ratio applies to the house including the terrace….
There are families who manage to create a nice family garden on 450sqm (4844 sq ft) – with 660sqm (7104 sq ft) there is no need to struggle.
I understand that the 300,000 including additional construction costs must cover everything?
Am I correct in this?
I think it is wrong to start discussing savings on the garage and similar items now. Perhaps first consider the basic cost calculation, whether it holds up to reality, and whether you are really assuming that a catalogue price is also the final price for the house. There are enough topics here in the forum discussing current construction prices realistically. Also, I do not see photovoltaics included in the price here.
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