ᐅ Floor Plan and Orientation of a Gable Roof House: Experiences?
Created on: 22 Aug 2021 15:29
B
BernieB
Hello, I’m interested in your opinions on our project described below:
1. About us:
2 adults (30 years old). No children planned.
2. Our space requirements:
- Living/dining area
- Separate, closed kitchen
- Bedroom
- Bathroom
- 2 offices (one used as home office)
- Guest WC
- Utility/technical room (HTR)
- Storage space within the house as a basement alternative & usable crawl space
- 1.5- to double garage with a small workshop
- Covered main terrace on the southeast side & secondary terrace on the southwest side
3. Preferred house style:
- Approximately 125-130 m² (1,345-1,400 sq ft)
- 1.5 stories (max. 1 full story allowed by the building regulations / planning permission)
- Traditional rectangular shape with a pitched roof, ridge oriented southeast-northwest for photovoltaic panels on the southwest side
- Timber frame construction or solid (masonry), depending on price; cost estimates are still pending. Do you have experience including the current steep increase in building material prices?
4. Desired additional features:
- Roofed terrace on the southeast side
- Barrier-reduced / accessible design
5. Building regulations / constraints:
- Building gap (vacant lot)
- Plot size: 660 m² (7,100 sq ft)
- Approx. 4% slope, descending from southwest to northeast → about 0.5 m (1.6 ft) height difference on a 10x10 m (33x33 ft) footprint
Building regulations / planning:
- 1 full story, floor area ratio 0.3, floor space index 0.3, open building form
- Building setback: 3 m (10 ft) from the street on the east, 5 m (16 ft) from the street on the south
No other restrictions
6. Planned building services:
- KfW 55 energy standard if the additional investment costs are covered by subsidies
We are still undecided about the actual technical systems. Preferably as cost-effective in initial purchase as possible, but also economically viable over 20 years.
Considerations:
- Air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating featuring a low flow temperature and photovoltaic readiness (to be implemented later after 5 years with government funding, if the house is then considered existing property)
We would like to use the popular J-Geisha Panasonic Aquarea WH-MDC05J3E5, but it’s uncertain if the general contractor (GC) will accommodate individual requests.
- Undecided whether to include a controlled ventilation system or not
Recommendation from the GC:
- Air heating with controlled ventilation
Ideas on this topic are very welcome.
7. House design:
DIY, but strongly based on a general contractor’s floor plan (at least on the ground floor)
8. Cost estimate:
300,000 euros (approximately) for the house only (excluding landscaping, garage, and kitchen) in the Lower Saxony region
Is this roughly at the lower end given current price developments? We want to build cost-conscious without much extra.
9. Questions:
- Is a kitchen door under the stairs practical? We want to create storage space under the stairs (for example, as a pantry).
- Is the layout of the utility/technical room (HTR) unfavorable for the technical requirements?
- Is the bathroom layout sensible? (We do not want a bathtub, but a large walk-in shower approx. 1 x 1.4 m (3.3 x 4.6 ft))
- Are the positions of the doors practical? Are the doors on the first floor too cramped, or is the space generally sufficient?
- Are windows in the crawl space useful to prevent mold and reduce moisture? Or how would you solve this?
- We would be interested to hear your overall opinion of the floor plan and which orientation on the plot you would prefer (and why). We have two possible orientations in mind: parallel to the street or parallel to the neighbor.
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the street:
- From the living area, the garden is visible through the large window front in the center
- Easier to comply with setback distances (with the other option, the eaves side would be 3 m (10 ft) from the western neighbor and the street. If the eaves height exceeds 6 meters (about 20 ft) (which is likely), the 3 m setback to the west neighbor would not be sufficient)
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the neighbor:
- Garage is easier to realize (otherwise oblique angles = more expensive, or an unused triangular area towards the north neighbor)



1. About us:
2 adults (30 years old). No children planned.
2. Our space requirements:
- Living/dining area
- Separate, closed kitchen
- Bedroom
- Bathroom
- 2 offices (one used as home office)
- Guest WC
- Utility/technical room (HTR)
- Storage space within the house as a basement alternative & usable crawl space
- 1.5- to double garage with a small workshop
- Covered main terrace on the southeast side & secondary terrace on the southwest side
3. Preferred house style:
- Approximately 125-130 m² (1,345-1,400 sq ft)
- 1.5 stories (max. 1 full story allowed by the building regulations / planning permission)
- Traditional rectangular shape with a pitched roof, ridge oriented southeast-northwest for photovoltaic panels on the southwest side
- Timber frame construction or solid (masonry), depending on price; cost estimates are still pending. Do you have experience including the current steep increase in building material prices?
4. Desired additional features:
- Roofed terrace on the southeast side
- Barrier-reduced / accessible design
5. Building regulations / constraints:
- Building gap (vacant lot)
- Plot size: 660 m² (7,100 sq ft)
- Approx. 4% slope, descending from southwest to northeast → about 0.5 m (1.6 ft) height difference on a 10x10 m (33x33 ft) footprint
Building regulations / planning:
- 1 full story, floor area ratio 0.3, floor space index 0.3, open building form
- Building setback: 3 m (10 ft) from the street on the east, 5 m (16 ft) from the street on the south
No other restrictions
6. Planned building services:
- KfW 55 energy standard if the additional investment costs are covered by subsidies
We are still undecided about the actual technical systems. Preferably as cost-effective in initial purchase as possible, but also economically viable over 20 years.
Considerations:
- Air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating featuring a low flow temperature and photovoltaic readiness (to be implemented later after 5 years with government funding, if the house is then considered existing property)
We would like to use the popular J-Geisha Panasonic Aquarea WH-MDC05J3E5, but it’s uncertain if the general contractor (GC) will accommodate individual requests.
- Undecided whether to include a controlled ventilation system or not
Recommendation from the GC:
- Air heating with controlled ventilation
Ideas on this topic are very welcome.
7. House design:
DIY, but strongly based on a general contractor’s floor plan (at least on the ground floor)
8. Cost estimate:
300,000 euros (approximately) for the house only (excluding landscaping, garage, and kitchen) in the Lower Saxony region
Is this roughly at the lower end given current price developments? We want to build cost-conscious without much extra.
9. Questions:
- Is a kitchen door under the stairs practical? We want to create storage space under the stairs (for example, as a pantry).
- Is the layout of the utility/technical room (HTR) unfavorable for the technical requirements?
- Is the bathroom layout sensible? (We do not want a bathtub, but a large walk-in shower approx. 1 x 1.4 m (3.3 x 4.6 ft))
- Are the positions of the doors practical? Are the doors on the first floor too cramped, or is the space generally sufficient?
- Are windows in the crawl space useful to prevent mold and reduce moisture? Or how would you solve this?
- We would be interested to hear your overall opinion of the floor plan and which orientation on the plot you would prefer (and why). We have two possible orientations in mind: parallel to the street or parallel to the neighbor.
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the street:
- From the living area, the garden is visible through the large window front in the center
- Easier to comply with setback distances (with the other option, the eaves side would be 3 m (10 ft) from the western neighbor and the street. If the eaves height exceeds 6 meters (about 20 ft) (which is likely), the 3 m setback to the west neighbor would not be sufficient)
Advantages from our point of view for orientation parallel to the neighbor:
- Garage is easier to realize (otherwise oblique angles = more expensive, or an unused triangular area towards the north neighbor)
H
hampshire22 Aug 2021 18:50BernieB schrieb:
- Is it feasible to have the kitchen door under the stairs? We would like to use the lower area of the stairs for storage (e.g., as a pantry).Yes, that’s definitely possible. However, it creates a long route from the kitchen to the dining area, which would bother me daily. A pantry under the stairs is a traditional solution – I would personally call it more of a food and drink cupboard. BernieB schrieb:
- Is the utility/technical room poorly laid out for technical requirements?Try marking the dimensions of the equipment you plan to install. Then you can see for yourself. Depending on the equipment, it either works or it gets very tight. BernieB schrieb:
- Is the bathroom layout practical? (We don’t want a bathtub, but a large walk-in shower roughly 1 x 1.4m (3 ft 3 in x 4 ft 7 in))It’s a bit uninspired, but it works. In this case, I’d suggest making the knee wall space accessible for storage. The shower will likely work better along the taller wall rather than squeezed under the roof slope. BernieB schrieb:
- Are the door positions practical? Are the ones on the first floor cramped, or is the space generally sufficient?The front door and guest toilet interfere with each other. Otherwise, it’s okay. BernieB schrieb:
- Are windows in the crawl space useful to prevent mold and reduce humidity? Or how would you solve that?Get a proposal from your builder or contractor. If you’re planning for a controlled mechanical ventilation system, this question doesn’t really come up. Windows up there are inconvenient anyway. BernieB schrieb:
- We’d like to hear your overall impression of the floor plan and which site orientation you would prefer (and why). We have two options in mind: parallel to the street and parallel to the neighbor.I wouldn’t want to live in this house. The living area feels way too cramped, and the distance from the kitchen to the dining area is too long. I would strongly prefer an orientation of the living spaces facing south toward the garden since I prefer living with a good connection between indoors and outdoors. The many small, closed-off rooms combined with limited window area can quickly create a “cave-like” feel, which is not my personal preference. Of course, tastes vary, and some people prefer a cozier, darker environment.I suspect the general contractor (GC) is a licensee of a “prestigious” big name.
My general warning: You should never base your plans on a GC floor layout for only one of the two floors, otherwise the other floor will likely not fit well. A typical consequence is drywall construction around downpipes in less elegant locations than in the original plan—unfortunately difficult to verify here without measurements.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
BernieB schrieb:
closely based on a GC floor plan (at least on the ground floor)
My general warning: You should never base your plans on a GC floor layout for only one of the two floors, otherwise the other floor will likely not fit well. A typical consequence is drywall construction around downpipes in less elegant locations than in the original plan—unfortunately difficult to verify here without measurements.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Thank you for your detailed and honest feedback. It helps me a lot.
ypg schrieb:Do you mean because of the low knee wall? So would you prefer a larger bedroom where you install a knee wall instead?
They’re complaining about the low headroom above the bed in the bedroom.
ypg schrieb:What do you mean by "three-wall layout"? Would you prefer 1.8 m (6 feet) because the shower water won’t spread in the bathroom then, or for greater comfort?
I don’t see this as a finished plan, just a simple three-wall layout. I wouldn’t go with 1.40, rather 1.80.
hampshire schrieb:You’re right. Would you then move the door closer to the eaves side to create more space? On the high wall, there’s the door, washbasin with mirror, and window. That doesn’t leave much room.
The shower will definitely work better on the high wall than squeezed under the roof.
11ant schrieb:Exactly right 🙂
I suspect the general contractor is a licensee of a "noble" big-name brand ;-)
BernieB schrieb:
What do you mean by "three-wall control"? It doesn’t look planned to me, more like the fixtures were just placed on the walls within five minutes.
BernieB schrieb:
Would you prefer the 1.8m (6 feet) because shower water wouldn’t spread across the bathroom, or for more comfort? Both!
BernieB schrieb:
You mean because of the low knee wall? So you’d rather have a larger bedroom with a knee wall built in? With your modest desired 130 sqm (1,400 sq ft), I would suggest an affordable bungalow in an L-shape, with the terrace facing southwest! That fits perfectly with your straightforward space requirements.
ypg schrieb:
This is a typical standard floor plan from Heinz von Heiden or Viebrockhaus... (with minor modifications) that I have seen multiple times in real life 🙂
Just saw #5: that’s how I know it, and it works that way.11ant schrieb:
I suspect the general contractor is a licensee of a "prestigious" big name ;-);)By the way, my neighbors don’t have the middle “western” window, but instead two terrace doors each 180cm (71 inches) wide facing south. The door to the living room is a double-glazed door.
ypg schrieb:
With your clearly defined desired 130sqm (1400 sq ft), I would suggest building an affordable bungalow in an L-shape, with the terrace facing southwest! Given your straightforward space requirements, it really makes sense. Interesting approach, I’ll need to recalculate that for us. I also like bungalows. However, our plot is only 17.90m (59 feet) wide. Minus twice a 3m (10 feet) setback from the boundary, that leaves just under 12m (39 feet).
And with only 660sqm (7100 sq ft) of land, the floor area ratio of 0.3 is also tight.
The higher costs of a bungalow are also a factor for us.
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