ᐅ Mounting an Awning – What Is the Proper Method for an External Thermal Insulation Composite System (ETICS)?
Created on: 5 Apr 2021 02:21
M
MarkisoI have posted on a similar topic before, but unfortunately I can’t find it anymore (it may have been deleted?), and there are some new insights. To summarize the project: We want to install a retractable awning over our terrace. Initially, we didn’t pay much attention to the mounting, as we thought it would be straightforward and routine work for the respective companies. However, after the first on-site meetings with two companies, we started having more questions and doubts about the mounting. Maybe someone here can tell us if there is a “correct” solution or method. From a layperson’s perspective, the mounting options suggested by the companies didn’t seem quite right.
Here is the situation: The awning must be mounted on the floor slab (on the exterior wall) made of concrete. Between the concrete and the exterior wall there is, as is common nowadays (the building was constructed in 2018), insulation of varying thickness—I assume about 12cm (5 inches). Additionally, the neighbors on the first floor have full-width floor-to-ceiling windows that of course have fall protection in the form of railings. These railings are also attached beneath the windows directly to the floor slab. Below that, mounting the awning is not possible because the roller shutter boxes are already installed there. Thus, the awning’s mounting would also have to be at the same height as the railing fixings, ideally with a good distance from them so as not to be too close in the concrete. This means the mounting not only has to bridge the insulation layer up to the concrete but also the 10cm (4 inches) distance between the exterior wall and the railing fixings.
The following proposals were made:
Company 1: Mounting in the concrete using steel brackets (?) that bridge the distance from the exterior wall to the awning. I feel this is not ideal because it would put some pressure on the “soft” insulation, especially when screwing in the awning.
Company 2: Mounting on the railing brackets. This makes me even more uneasy because I assume those brackets are designed only for the railings, not for an additional load from an awning plus wind, etc.
Neither company had an immediate answer or clear solution during the on-site inspection as to how they would handle the mounting. That wasn’t very reassuring, as I think our situation really isn’t that complicated—maybe just slightly more complex than standard due to the railings.
Both companies advised us to contact a third company. This company was at least able to immediately answer the question about the mounting during the on-site visit. Their approach is as follows: At each mounting point, a roughly 10x10cm (4x4 inch) square is cut into the insulation, and then anchors (quote) are fixed into the concrete. Plastic plates are placed on these anchors (as they supposedly have a better thermal transmittance value and therefore create a smaller thermal bridge). These plates are intended to bridge the distance from the concrete to the awning, i.e., insulation plus the roughly 10cm (4 inches) gap between the exterior wall and the railing brackets. The immediate response and explanation seemed plausible to me at first. However, since we have no technical expertise, I could be mistaken. My main concern is whether it is really advisable to cut out such a large area of the insulation. There would be three mounting points: right and left on the outer edges to carry the weight, and one in the middle to prevent sagging and to maintain tension on the awning.
Is this method good/correct? Or is there a standard or professionally accepted way to attach it?
Here is a picture of our terrace and the railings:

PS: When I see prices from other forum posts (not only here) for more expensive models and sizes, I am really surprised. For us, the offer from the third company for a Markilux5010 measuring 5m x 3m (16.4 ft x 9.8 ft) was almost 5000€ (including a motor with remote control) 😳 But here, the focus is on the mounting 🙂
Here is the situation: The awning must be mounted on the floor slab (on the exterior wall) made of concrete. Between the concrete and the exterior wall there is, as is common nowadays (the building was constructed in 2018), insulation of varying thickness—I assume about 12cm (5 inches). Additionally, the neighbors on the first floor have full-width floor-to-ceiling windows that of course have fall protection in the form of railings. These railings are also attached beneath the windows directly to the floor slab. Below that, mounting the awning is not possible because the roller shutter boxes are already installed there. Thus, the awning’s mounting would also have to be at the same height as the railing fixings, ideally with a good distance from them so as not to be too close in the concrete. This means the mounting not only has to bridge the insulation layer up to the concrete but also the 10cm (4 inches) distance between the exterior wall and the railing fixings.
The following proposals were made:
Company 1: Mounting in the concrete using steel brackets (?) that bridge the distance from the exterior wall to the awning. I feel this is not ideal because it would put some pressure on the “soft” insulation, especially when screwing in the awning.
Company 2: Mounting on the railing brackets. This makes me even more uneasy because I assume those brackets are designed only for the railings, not for an additional load from an awning plus wind, etc.
Neither company had an immediate answer or clear solution during the on-site inspection as to how they would handle the mounting. That wasn’t very reassuring, as I think our situation really isn’t that complicated—maybe just slightly more complex than standard due to the railings.
Both companies advised us to contact a third company. This company was at least able to immediately answer the question about the mounting during the on-site visit. Their approach is as follows: At each mounting point, a roughly 10x10cm (4x4 inch) square is cut into the insulation, and then anchors (quote) are fixed into the concrete. Plastic plates are placed on these anchors (as they supposedly have a better thermal transmittance value and therefore create a smaller thermal bridge). These plates are intended to bridge the distance from the concrete to the awning, i.e., insulation plus the roughly 10cm (4 inches) gap between the exterior wall and the railing brackets. The immediate response and explanation seemed plausible to me at first. However, since we have no technical expertise, I could be mistaken. My main concern is whether it is really advisable to cut out such a large area of the insulation. There would be three mounting points: right and left on the outer edges to carry the weight, and one in the middle to prevent sagging and to maintain tension on the awning.
Is this method good/correct? Or is there a standard or professionally accepted way to attach it?
Here is a picture of our terrace and the railings:
PS: When I see prices from other forum posts (not only here) for more expensive models and sizes, I am really surprised. For us, the offer from the third company for a Markilux5010 measuring 5m x 3m (16.4 ft x 9.8 ft) was almost 5000€ (including a motor with remote control) 😳 But here, the focus is on the mounting 🙂
Markiso schrieb:
Contact the company. During the on-site appointment, they were at least able to directly answer the question about the fastening method. It is supposed to look like this: At the fastening points, a roughly 10x10cm (4x4 inches) square is cut out of the insulation, then the "anchors" (quote) are fixed into the concrete. On top of that come some kind of plastic plates (since they supposedly have a better thermal conductivity value and thus create a smaller thermal bridge). These are meant to bridge the gap from the concrete to the awning—that is, the insulation plus the approximately 10cm (4 inches) distance from the exterior wall to the balcony railing brackets. The immediate answer regarding the fastening method as well as the description initially seemed plausible to me. However, since we have no expertise in this matter, I could be mistaken. What concerns me is whether it’s really a good idea to cut out such a large part of the insulation. There would be three fastening points: one on the far right and left to support the weight, and one in the middle, presumably to prevent sagging and to keep the awning taut.Of all three providers, this is the professional solution.
This is how it should look for you.
Well, it would still need to be reinforced in the area of the French balcony to ensure the awning is properly secured.
You are right, of course, that this must be approved by the homeowners association. However, in our case, the condominium declaration generally allows awnings for all owners, after one of the owners applied for permission to install an awning for themselves. So everything is fine regarding the awning 🙂
SchwalbenFahre schrieb:
Of all three providers, this is the professional solution.
It should look like this for you.
Well, the area around the French balcony still needs to be reinforced to properly secure the awning. I wanted to ask about your comment, especially the pictures. What exactly do you mean by reinforced? And in the three pictures you posted, none of them look exactly like what the awning company plans to do... even though you said that was the professional solution.
In your pictures, the “intervention” (i.e., where the insulation is cut out or “opened”) clearly looks different from the square cutouts about 10cm x 10cm (4 inches x 4 inches) suggested by the awning company.
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