ᐅ Single-story house initially, with the option to add a second floor later
Created on: 5 Nov 2016 23:04
I
Ickes
Hello everyone,
I have the following question:
I own a plot of land and currently live alone.
A large house would be too big for me alone. Is it possible to first build the ground floor (similar to a bungalow) and then add the upper floor and roof after a few years? What type of roof would be suitable in this case? Is it possible to build a flat roof that can be removed when adding the upper floor?
I am allowed to build two storeys in total, but for me alone, it wouldn’t make sense or be financially feasible.
Thank you very much
I have the following question:
I own a plot of land and currently live alone.
A large house would be too big for me alone. Is it possible to first build the ground floor (similar to a bungalow) and then add the upper floor and roof after a few years? What type of roof would be suitable in this case? Is it possible to build a flat roof that can be removed when adding the upper floor?
I am allowed to build two storeys in total, but for me alone, it wouldn’t make sense or be financially feasible.
Thank you very much
Ok, I’m slowly starting to understand the issue. I hadn’t even considered waterproofing, but that would have to be done for a flat roof as well...
If I build a pitched roof on top, can it still be used later? I mean, if I fully develop the upper floor, is it possible to somehow "lift" the pitched roof (using a crane) and put it back on top of the upper floor? That way, I would only have to pay for it once in the long term.
If I build a pitched roof on top, can it still be used later? I mean, if I fully develop the upper floor, is it possible to somehow "lift" the pitched roof (using a crane) and put it back on top of the upper floor? That way, I would only have to pay for it once in the long term.
The costs for this are many times higher than if you simply build a pitched roof at 45°... whether with or without a knee wall is up to you. Even without a knee wall, you can still use the upper floor as living space later.
To lift it, you would need to cover it (= new roof tiles), renew the vapor barrier, finance a crane for several weeks... and it is still uncertain whether this is possible without damaging your roof structure.
To lift it, you would need to cover it (= new roof tiles), renew the vapor barrier, finance a crane for several weeks... and it is still uncertain whether this is possible without damaging your roof structure.
Great, thank you very much for all the information.
I have now considered the following:
A basement built as a waterproof concrete shell, with the ground floor finished. On top, a pitched roof, insulated, with no interior finishing.
What would be the approximate cost for a floor area of about 9m by 10m (30ft by 33ft)?
I have now considered the following:
A basement built as a waterproof concrete shell, with the ground floor finished. On top, a pitched roof, insulated, with no interior finishing.
What would be the approximate cost for a floor area of about 9m by 10m (30ft by 33ft)?
Hi,
By raw electrical wiring, do you mean that I should run the main cable upstairs, or should I plan the entire electrical installation upstairs from the start? Heating upstairs? So should I install the underfloor heating there directly, or just run the main supply line upstairs (I had already considered a service shaft).
Thank you
By raw electrical wiring, do you mean that I should run the main cable upstairs, or should I plan the entire electrical installation upstairs from the start? Heating upstairs? So should I install the underfloor heating there directly, or just run the main supply line upstairs (I had already considered a service shaft).
Thank you
A complete electrical installation is not necessary—especially if you are only doing drywall work on the upper floor. It is definitely possible to come up with a layout where outlets are installed only in the partition walls. If you skip the drywall panels, you can later easily run cables above in the ceiling. Essentially, you then have one large open space upstairs where you look at the vapor barrier with battens on top.
I would suggest installing the heating on the upper floor—if you choose underfloor heating, install it immediately and have it operational before applying the screed. Temperature differences between the ground floor and the upper floor are undesirable.
Plumbing rough-ins should, of course, be installed at the same time.
Similarly, have the plastering done right away—doing it later just creates a big mess.
Later on, you would then finish with ceiling panels, lightweight partition walls, electrical work, floor coverings, wallpaper or painting, interior doors, and sanitary fixtures.
I would suggest installing the heating on the upper floor—if you choose underfloor heating, install it immediately and have it operational before applying the screed. Temperature differences between the ground floor and the upper floor are undesirable.
Plumbing rough-ins should, of course, be installed at the same time.
Similarly, have the plastering done right away—doing it later just creates a big mess.
Later on, you would then finish with ceiling panels, lightweight partition walls, electrical work, floor coverings, wallpaper or painting, interior doors, and sanitary fixtures.
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