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Reini123415 Oct 2020 12:10Hello everyone,
we installed parquet and laminate flooring in our home. Since we have many floor-to-ceiling windows, I wanted to ask how you have handled the expansion joint at the edges? These aluminum profiles seem too bulky to me. I have seen that some people use wooden square battens, but in this case it is almost impossible to match the floor color with a suitable stain.
we installed parquet and laminate flooring in our home. Since we have many floor-to-ceiling windows, I wanted to ask how you have handled the expansion joint at the edges? These aluminum profiles seem too bulky to me. I have seen that some people use wooden square battens, but in this case it is almost impossible to match the floor color with a suitable stain.
Hello questioner.
Your question involves combining technically necessary aspects (the movement joint at the window/door elements) with aesthetic considerations into one solution.
This is possible!
First, it must be clarified whether it is a heated screed or an unheated screed.
Connected with this is the joint width, admittedly less important at this point.
My proposed solution is as follows:
1.) The movement joint(s) must remain free! If necessary, chisel out and remove particles with a vacuum cleaner.
2.) Obtain a metallic edge profile (L-shaped) that suits your taste and interior design.
3.) The profile element is set "dry" onto the edge of the screed (adjacent to the window elements) and certain adjustments are made.
4.) Once the plan is finalized (please consider the required joint width), the support leg is glued to the screed using a reactive resin. This provides a neat edge finish.
5.) Get a so-called "joint filler profile," preferably a square (not round) one matching the joint width, and press it in flush with the surface of the edge profile. This is only pressed in, not glued!
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This is one of the visually appealing and technically functional solutions!
Best regards and good luck: KlaRa
Your question involves combining technically necessary aspects (the movement joint at the window/door elements) with aesthetic considerations into one solution.
This is possible!
First, it must be clarified whether it is a heated screed or an unheated screed.
Connected with this is the joint width, admittedly less important at this point.
My proposed solution is as follows:
1.) The movement joint(s) must remain free! If necessary, chisel out and remove particles with a vacuum cleaner.
2.) Obtain a metallic edge profile (L-shaped) that suits your taste and interior design.
3.) The profile element is set "dry" onto the edge of the screed (adjacent to the window elements) and certain adjustments are made.
4.) Once the plan is finalized (please consider the required joint width), the support leg is glued to the screed using a reactive resin. This provides a neat edge finish.
5.) Get a so-called "joint filler profile," preferably a square (not round) one matching the joint width, and press it in flush with the surface of the edge profile. This is only pressed in, not glued!
----------------------------------
This is one of the visually appealing and technically functional solutions!
Best regards and good luck: KlaRa
Tolentino schrieb:
In my condominium, the wall trim strips are simply glued to the window sill. I suspect this is meant to cover an expansion joint.Is it still considered "sealed" so that nothing can get behind it?I am currently facing the same issue, where I need to finish the connection to fixed window sections on our floor-to-ceiling windows. Using silicone might require a large gap and therefore a lot of material. Now I am also considering using an adhesive profile. My question is:
Should it be glued to the window frame or to the floor covering?
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