Hello dear forum,
We have purchased a house built in 1981 with existing underfloor heating. It is currently still operated with a gas boiler from the same year. I have a total of two heating circuits (HKV), where you can already see significant corrosion on the connections. The plastic pipes are accordingly diffusion-open.
Both heating circuits are from Viega and will also be replaced by new Viega heating circuits. Currently, the house has no individual room control. I would like to retroactively install this as part of the renovation. That means a room thermostat (RT) in the rooms, connected to the heating circuits with actuators.
Thank you.
We have purchased a house built in 1981 with existing underfloor heating. It is currently still operated with a gas boiler from the same year. I have a total of two heating circuits (HKV), where you can already see significant corrosion on the connections. The plastic pipes are accordingly diffusion-open.
Both heating circuits are from Viega and will also be replaced by new Viega heating circuits. Currently, the house has no individual room control. I would like to retroactively install this as part of the renovation. That means a room thermostat (RT) in the rooms, connected to the heating circuits with actuators.
- Question:
We want to replace the old gas boiler with a heat pump fairly soon, but at the latest next spring. I have read that individual room controls with actuators are not advisable with a heat pump and underfloor heating. A constant flow with low supply temperature is recommended. Is this correct? We are people who might not want to sleep with warm underfloor heating all the time, etc. How can this be controlled effectively and efficiently without heating all rooms? - Question:
For reasons of efficiency loss and cost, I actually do not want a hydraulic separation between the heat pump and the underfloor heating. I would flush the system anyway. In the final stage of the system, is it sufficient to install a magnetic dirt separator and possibly flush the system every 5 years? I have also read that heating water can be treated to reduce oxygen formation?
Thank you.
I can only comment on question 1.
Individual room control (IRC) is generally required, but it is possible to get an exemption.
We moved into our house 12 years ago, and after the first year, I disconnected some of the actuators, effectively disabling the IRC.
Then, step by step, I adjusted everything properly through the flow rate and the heating curve.
To optimize the system for all seasons, it can take 1 to 2 years, because what works in winter doesn’t necessarily work during the milder heating periods in spring or autumn. By doing this, I was able to significantly reduce our energy consumption compared to the first 1 to 2 years, which were naturally used for drying out the house. At first, I left the IRC active in the guest room/office and the bedroom to only turn up the heat when needed, but by now I have disabled the IRC there as well.
When I talk to our heating technician, however, most people keep the IRC fully operational.
There are many threads in this forum on how to adjust heating without IRC, so feel free to do some research there.
Regarding point 2 in question 1: Our bedroom is set to a slightly lower temperature than the other rooms. Since everything is within the same thermal envelope, this temperature naturally balances out somewhat. Any heat energy flowing into the bedroom from adjacent rooms requires those rooms to be heated more. Overall, this can mean you might need to set the heating curve about 1°C (2°F) higher than otherwise necessary. Completely turning off heating in the bedroom is therefore usually not advisable.
In our case, all the doors are at least slightly open because of our cat.
Individual room control (IRC) is generally required, but it is possible to get an exemption.
We moved into our house 12 years ago, and after the first year, I disconnected some of the actuators, effectively disabling the IRC.
Then, step by step, I adjusted everything properly through the flow rate and the heating curve.
To optimize the system for all seasons, it can take 1 to 2 years, because what works in winter doesn’t necessarily work during the milder heating periods in spring or autumn. By doing this, I was able to significantly reduce our energy consumption compared to the first 1 to 2 years, which were naturally used for drying out the house. At first, I left the IRC active in the guest room/office and the bedroom to only turn up the heat when needed, but by now I have disabled the IRC there as well.
When I talk to our heating technician, however, most people keep the IRC fully operational.
There are many threads in this forum on how to adjust heating without IRC, so feel free to do some research there.
Regarding point 2 in question 1: Our bedroom is set to a slightly lower temperature than the other rooms. Since everything is within the same thermal envelope, this temperature naturally balances out somewhat. Any heat energy flowing into the bedroom from adjacent rooms requires those rooms to be heated more. Overall, this can mean you might need to set the heating curve about 1°C (2°F) higher than otherwise necessary. Completely turning off heating in the bedroom is therefore usually not advisable.
In our case, all the doors are at least slightly open because of our cat.
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