Hello,
we are planning to clad the gable ends and the knee wall area of our house with profiled wood siding. We have someone who can carry out the installation for us, but we would need to take care of the wood treatment and painting ourselves.
My question is to what extent the wood needs to be pre-treated before installation and when the paint or finish should be applied. Does this treatment need to be done before the siding is installed? I imagine the wood would need to be treated on all sides beforehand, and that applying paint from the outside afterward might be less effective if the wood continues to expand and contract, causing the tongue and groove joints to move apart.
we are planning to clad the gable ends and the knee wall area of our house with profiled wood siding. We have someone who can carry out the installation for us, but we would need to take care of the wood treatment and painting ourselves.
My question is to what extent the wood needs to be pre-treated before installation and when the paint or finish should be applied. Does this treatment need to be done before the siding is installed? I imagine the wood would need to be treated on all sides beforehand, and that applying paint from the outside afterward might be less effective if the wood continues to expand and contract, causing the tongue and groove joints to move apart.
First, it depends on whether the wood (what type exactly? Larch?) actually NEEDS to be treated at all. Once the facade is installed and, for example, you need to re-treat it after 2 years, the wood should only be treated on the outside/weather-exposed side; dismantling it for staining wouldn’t be very user-friendly. However, before installation, I would treat both sides if possible.
I am also planning to install a ventilated, rainscreen facade made of larch profiles. The oil glaze will be applied twice to the front side and once to the back side, with a drying time of 24 hours each time. It can be repainted later without sanding. I fully coat the battens before installation, as I have a black contrasting tongue, which makes it easier. I wouldn’t use simple paint, as it tends to peel off. I find the oil glaze quite good.
I’m not yet sure about the type of wood for the profile timber. Is spruce/fir suitable? That’s what the carpentry company suggested, as it is also the most cost-effective.
Furthermore, I was recommended a silicone alkyd paint (e.g., from Oden). Does anyone have experience with whether the price is justified? The following is stated in the application guidelines:
...one coat of paint on untreated wood: 1. The surface must be clean, dry, and intact! If not, brush or scrape off any loose material, such as dirt or dust, then rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow the surface to dry. 2. Apply our primer oil GRUNDOLJA into the wood and let it dry for 1-2 days depending on the weather conditions. 3. Then apply our sealer and adhesion primer Trägrund (white) or UTEGRUND (colored) and let dry for 1-2 days depending on weather conditions. 4. Now apply the first coat of ODEN paint, slightly thinned (5-15% turpentine substitute). 5. Depending on weather conditions, apply the final topcoat of ODEN, slightly thinned, no earlier than 3-6 days later.
So that means 1x priming oil, 1x adhesion primer, and 2x painting coats. Or is that an excessive recommendation from the manufacturer?
Furthermore, I was recommended a silicone alkyd paint (e.g., from Oden). Does anyone have experience with whether the price is justified? The following is stated in the application guidelines:
...one coat of paint on untreated wood: 1. The surface must be clean, dry, and intact! If not, brush or scrape off any loose material, such as dirt or dust, then rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow the surface to dry. 2. Apply our primer oil GRUNDOLJA into the wood and let it dry for 1-2 days depending on the weather conditions. 3. Then apply our sealer and adhesion primer Trägrund (white) or UTEGRUND (colored) and let dry for 1-2 days depending on weather conditions. 4. Now apply the first coat of ODEN paint, slightly thinned (5-15% turpentine substitute). 5. Depending on weather conditions, apply the final topcoat of ODEN, slightly thinned, no earlier than 3-6 days later.
So that means 1x priming oil, 1x adhesion primer, and 2x painting coats. Or is that an excessive recommendation from the manufacturer?
H
Hausqualle22 Jul 2015 20:52Mafungu schrieb:
on the gable ends and at the height of the knee wall with a profiled wood cladding. No problem, every prefab home manufacturer does this, but they soak their wood beforehand in baths to protect it against pests and rot. So find a company with experience in this. However, if you need to save money, be prepared to do a lot of work yourself, as all those profiled wood boards will need multiple coats of paint. Fir/Spruce is, of course, the cheapest and softest wood... in what thickness?Similar topics