Hello everyone,
there is probably already a thread on this topic, but I have to admit that my search didn’t quite work the way I wanted. So, I apologize in advance—please feel free to link any existing posts if available.
About my concern:
I am currently renovating (a full refurbishment) a detached house from the 1950s. The masonry consists of 24 cm (9.4 inches) pumice blocks, plastered and painted on the outside. The roof and windows have been renewed and insulated, meeting the requirements for KfW funding. There is a decentralized ventilation system by Lunos.
I have been reading about different materials and came across Neopur.
The plan was to use WGL032 with a thickness of 160 mm (6.3 inches). Unfortunately, this material contains crude oil. In case of fire, it reportedly ignites and burns very quickly—within a very short time (at least within the 20-minute typical response time of the fire department). Additionally, it melts and drips. The advantages are good insulation value, a reasonable price, relatively easy installation (including the use of countersunk plastic anchor plugs to avoid visible marks later), and the fact that the material does not necessarily have to be protected from moisture during and after installation.
However, the fire risk is troubling me. Of course, one assumes the house will not catch fire for the next 300 years, but in the worst case, this is a significant disadvantage. My biggest concern is that the fire could spread extremely quickly within 5–6 minutes. It already takes about 5–10 minutes to notice a fire—if it is noticed at all.
Rockwool offers an interesting alternative product, Coverrock II (with WGL035) combined with a plaster carrier board. Similar countersunk anchors can be used here. The price, however, is about twice as high. I can’t comment on the installation process yet. I would need to protect the stone wool from moisture and plaster it relatively quickly. The obvious advantage is that this material is not flammable or at least much less flammable and does not drip.
Who among you has already installed these materials and maybe even has some years of experience?
Who can recommend certain materials?
I’m not looking to debate the general pros and cons of external wall insulation. The insulation will be 160 mm (6.3 inches) thick regardless (electrically operated exterior roller shutters with plaster carrier).
As you can see, I’m quite concerned about the choice of material. Sorry for writing so much. I would really appreciate any advice!
there is probably already a thread on this topic, but I have to admit that my search didn’t quite work the way I wanted. So, I apologize in advance—please feel free to link any existing posts if available.
About my concern:
I am currently renovating (a full refurbishment) a detached house from the 1950s. The masonry consists of 24 cm (9.4 inches) pumice blocks, plastered and painted on the outside. The roof and windows have been renewed and insulated, meeting the requirements for KfW funding. There is a decentralized ventilation system by Lunos.
I have been reading about different materials and came across Neopur.
The plan was to use WGL032 with a thickness of 160 mm (6.3 inches). Unfortunately, this material contains crude oil. In case of fire, it reportedly ignites and burns very quickly—within a very short time (at least within the 20-minute typical response time of the fire department). Additionally, it melts and drips. The advantages are good insulation value, a reasonable price, relatively easy installation (including the use of countersunk plastic anchor plugs to avoid visible marks later), and the fact that the material does not necessarily have to be protected from moisture during and after installation.
However, the fire risk is troubling me. Of course, one assumes the house will not catch fire for the next 300 years, but in the worst case, this is a significant disadvantage. My biggest concern is that the fire could spread extremely quickly within 5–6 minutes. It already takes about 5–10 minutes to notice a fire—if it is noticed at all.
Rockwool offers an interesting alternative product, Coverrock II (with WGL035) combined with a plaster carrier board. Similar countersunk anchors can be used here. The price, however, is about twice as high. I can’t comment on the installation process yet. I would need to protect the stone wool from moisture and plaster it relatively quickly. The obvious advantage is that this material is not flammable or at least much less flammable and does not drip.
Who among you has already installed these materials and maybe even has some years of experience?
Who can recommend certain materials?
I’m not looking to debate the general pros and cons of external wall insulation. The insulation will be 160 mm (6.3 inches) thick regardless (electrically operated exterior roller shutters with plaster carrier).
As you can see, I’m quite concerned about the choice of material. Sorry for writing so much. I would really appreciate any advice!
B
Bauexperte28 Jan 2016 10:44@Sina86
The subforum you chose is appropriate.
Regards, Bauexperte
The subforum you chose is appropriate.
Regards, Bauexperte
Neopor is a type of expanded polystyrene (EPS) insulation that contains graphite particles. These graphite particles are designed to scatter thermal radiation, reducing the transfer of heat within the material. As a result, its thermal conductivity is slightly lower (thermal conductivity value 0.032 W/m·K) compared to standard EPS insulation materials with a value of 0.035 W/m·K. EPS/Neopor are classified within the European fire ratings B1 and B2 (DIN EN 4102), meaning flame retardant and normally flammable, and are approved for external thermal insulation composite systems (ETICS). Mineral wool has a fire class of A1/A2 (non-combustible/mostly non-combustible).
Mineral wool/stone wool insulation boards must be protected from rain during installation in ETICS, as they can absorb moisture and lose their insulating properties. EPS/XPS materials absorb almost no liquid water and can withstand short-term exposure to rain. For mineral wool/stone wool, rain protection until the plastering stage is absolutely necessary, and managing this protection during installation can be challenging and costly.
An interesting alternative is phenolic foam boards with thermal conductivity values between 0.021 and 0.024 W/m·K and in fire class B2 (DIN 4102-1, Classification C-s1 / s2, d0). These are not yet widespread but should now be offered by specialized ETICS contractors.
In addition to the common plastered ETICS, there is also the option of ventilated facades using different types of insulation materials, which require a more complex substructure.
Mineral wool/stone wool insulation boards must be protected from rain during installation in ETICS, as they can absorb moisture and lose their insulating properties. EPS/XPS materials absorb almost no liquid water and can withstand short-term exposure to rain. For mineral wool/stone wool, rain protection until the plastering stage is absolutely necessary, and managing this protection during installation can be challenging and costly.
An interesting alternative is phenolic foam boards with thermal conductivity values between 0.021 and 0.024 W/m·K and in fire class B2 (DIN 4102-1, Classification C-s1 / s2, d0). These are not yet widespread but should now be offered by specialized ETICS contractors.
In addition to the common plastered ETICS, there is also the option of ventilated facades using different types of insulation materials, which require a more complex substructure.
@wpic thank you very much for your detailed response. It has really helped me a lot.
I was already aware of the graphite particles, which I find quite interesting.
Was I completely wrong about the crude oil? I just can’t quite understand how materials like expanded polystyrene (EPS) or Neopor (if the oil is processed in it) can be considered flame-retardant and classified as fire resistance class B1. In the end, the EPS system will probably be advantageous for me, especially since I need more time for DIY work. I can’t start plastering just two days after installing the first insulation element... Mineral wool feels too hot for me in that regard. Plus, the installation is somewhat easier with EPS.
The phenolic foam boards you mentioned are not really an option for me. I did look into them but wasn’t really convinced.
A ventilated façade is definitely an alternative and might be worth reviewing in more detail.
Many thanks
I was already aware of the graphite particles, which I find quite interesting.
Was I completely wrong about the crude oil? I just can’t quite understand how materials like expanded polystyrene (EPS) or Neopor (if the oil is processed in it) can be considered flame-retardant and classified as fire resistance class B1. In the end, the EPS system will probably be advantageous for me, especially since I need more time for DIY work. I can’t start plastering just two days after installing the first insulation element... Mineral wool feels too hot for me in that regard. Plus, the installation is somewhat easier with EPS.
The phenolic foam boards you mentioned are not really an option for me. I did look into them but wasn’t really convinced.
A ventilated façade is definitely an alternative and might be worth reviewing in more detail.
Many thanks
We once had a renovation concept with wood fiber insulation systems. I have no idea how that would perform considering your parameters.
I’m probably not too concerned about the petroleum content – I find the fungicides much more troubling. But well, everyone has their own pet concerns.
I’m probably not too concerned about the petroleum content – I find the fungicides much more troubling. But well, everyone has their own pet concerns.
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