Hello everyone,
I have the following problem: Four years ago, I noticed moisture entering inside on the front side of the house (which has no basement). The front side of the house is located about 80 cm (31.5 inches) lower than the top edge of the street (see Photo 1). After two repairs carried out by the builder, some areas have improved, but the left side at the L-shaped retaining wall has worsened.
There are two main expert reports and two supplementary reports. One private report by a publicly appointed and sworn expert (not a personal friend) and one court-appointed expert. Both reports differ fundamentally, hence the supplementary reports. Each side continues to support their own conclusions.
Describing everything in detail would go beyond the scope here.
Regardless of the outcome for me, I need reliable advice on how to permanently fix the damage.
I have read a lot online about DIN standards (18195-4, 18195-6 with or without drainage). For me, these DIN standards seem to apply mainly to houses with basements, and in all cases surface water should be drained away from the house. In my case, this is not possible due to the slight slope of the land. Water obviously flows from top to bottom, not the other way around.
I hope my questions are understandable based on the photos, and I will add comments from the two experts (GSV: court-appointed expert, PSV: private expert).
The GSV assumes in their report that the planned fill height corresponds to the top edge of the foundation slab, not the top edge of the finished floor.
The PSV assumes the filling is up to the top edge of the finished floor, since he had visited the construction site earlier when the entrance area was still paved, with lawn edging stones installed on both sides of the entrance (both paving and lawn edging stones were done by the builder).
I want to fill up again to the top edge of the finished floor, not only for aesthetic reasons.
The GSV’s opinion is that the foundation slab only needs to be waterproofed against ground moisture according to DIN 18195-4.
The PSV does not specify a DIN standard as binding but describes waterproofing differently. He would, if in doubt, waterproof against the load case of rising seepage or pressurized water.
To me this sounds like: the soil’s infiltration capacity is unknown, so water might not be drainable via drainage. In that case, waterproofing according to DIN 18195 for pressurized water would be required.
Problem 1.
(see Photo 2, Photo 3, and Photo 4. Photo 4 shows that the height of the curb plaster matches the height of the top edge of the finished floor.)
The GSV believes the horizontal waterproofing is located approximately at the bottom edge height of the curb plaster.
The bituminous waterproofing (KMB) must be 3 mm thick.
The KMB waterproofing must extend at least 10 cm (4 inches) below the horizontal waterproofing.
From his point of view, nothing else is needed except some repair where stones have pressed into the waterproofing or where the waterproofing is not sticking properly in spots.
The PSV states that the KMB coating was not applied down to the protruding concrete surfaces. A fillet was not formed. Documentation about KMB waterproofing regarding processing guidelines must be followed, etc. (From his detailed explanations, it sounds to me like everything might need to be removed and redone.) A soil report is needed. Possibly drainage and a permeable soakaway or infiltration trench along with an inspection option.
In my opinion, the horizontal waterproofing is about 16 cm (6.3 inches) lower than the height stated by the GSV, because I have to subtract the floor build-up from the floor edge upward (tiles, tile adhesive, screed, and insulation).
Then I cannot reach 10 cm (4 inches) everywhere and I also need to repair the waterproofing height here. This is not easy because the lower edges of the KMB waterproofing are sticking out and can even tear off. Still, the amount I have to do is much less than what the PSV describes.
After these two very different assessments, I can only say HELP. What should the waterproofing really look like?
Problem 2.
Compacted soil (Photo 3). No comments from the experts, only from a well-known architect.
The “overflowed” foundation slab has compacted the soil at this point. I am supposed to chip this off.
Is this necessary?
Problem 3.
Soil fill. (see also Photo 7, this is how it looks after heavy rain)
The GSV made a profile sketch (see profile_sketch.jpg) and believes the soil report is of secondary importance since the building is not basemented and the plot has been backfilled. In this case, the exposure situation “ground moisture” applies.
To me the sketch is not correct. On the street side, the house is 80 cm (31.5 inches) below the top edge of the street.
On the garden side, eventually the street level is lower than the house. But my question is: can surface water from the front side flow under the foundation slab to the other side and infiltrate there? Or does he mean something else?
Problem 4.
Protection measures against mechanical damage to the waterproofing layers.
The PSV criticizes that the protection against mechanical damage by undefined polystyrene boards is insufficient. He did not mention how it should be done properly.
The GSV says nothing about this.
How do I protect the waterproofing properly? Dimpled membrane and polystyrene for insulation?
Problem 5.
L-shaped retaining wall (Photo 5) (the dampest corner)
GSV’s opinion: the missing waterproofing on the L-shaped wall can be partially reworked without removing the entire L-wall.
PSV does not consider professional waterproofing around the L-walls without removal feasible. Also, a protective view layer towards the building wall and waterproofing should be installed at this time. There should also be waterproofing applied over the splash water zone, about 30 cm (12 inches) above the water-bearing level here at the top edge of the angle stones and to the sides. (This last sentence is unclear to me.)
Should I really have the L-walls removed and then waterproofed? I don’t want to think about that, because I would also have to disturb and then repair the neighbor’s property.
How do I apply waterproofing over the splash water zone, or is that not so important?
Problem 6.
Neighbor’s drainage (Photo 6. After the first heavy rain, water came out of the drainage.)
GSV opinion: the drains here are no problem because the drainage pipe is heavily clogged. The current condition of these drainage pipes under the assumption of “ground moisture” exposure does not lead to increased moisture stress on the waterproofing, since in this case no water flows through the drainage pipe.
PSV criticizes that the excavation pit of my house is used as a runoff and that the drainage water from the neighbor’s building should be managed on their own property with technical solutions.
I get along well with the neighbor. He also bought the house from the same builder and fixed moisture issues at his own expense in some areas.
Now I need to find an affordable solution to at least “block” the drainage water so that no water reaches my property. I appreciate any reasonable suggestions.
Problem 7.
Frost protection for rainwater pipe (Photo 8. Level at 50 cm (20 inches))
GSV says he measured 35 cm (14 inches) in the unfinished state and assumes that after the completion of the exterior works, sufficient cover and frost protection for the main pipe will be ensured.
PSV only writes that a cover of about 50 cm (20 inches) is proper.
Since I don’t even reach 35 cm (14 inches) when filling up to the top edge of the finished floor, and according to initial findings, the rainwater pipe cannot be laid any deeper (the slope in the uncovered area is already minimal), I wonder if I can insulate the rainwater pipe differently.
Is wrapping the rainwater pipe with fleece or other materials sufficient for insulation? (I know this is not professional, but maybe still durable and acceptable.)
Here I want to add that if I fill up to the top edge of the foundation slab, I would still have to subtract 16 cm (6.3 inches) from the 35 cm (14 inches). That would leave me with a soil cover of max. 19 cm (7.5 inches).
I know this is a lot of questions, but I can’t get any further without help.
Thank you for any assistance.
Adriane
I have the following problem: Four years ago, I noticed moisture entering inside on the front side of the house (which has no basement). The front side of the house is located about 80 cm (31.5 inches) lower than the top edge of the street (see Photo 1). After two repairs carried out by the builder, some areas have improved, but the left side at the L-shaped retaining wall has worsened.
There are two main expert reports and two supplementary reports. One private report by a publicly appointed and sworn expert (not a personal friend) and one court-appointed expert. Both reports differ fundamentally, hence the supplementary reports. Each side continues to support their own conclusions.
Describing everything in detail would go beyond the scope here.
Regardless of the outcome for me, I need reliable advice on how to permanently fix the damage.
I have read a lot online about DIN standards (18195-4, 18195-6 with or without drainage). For me, these DIN standards seem to apply mainly to houses with basements, and in all cases surface water should be drained away from the house. In my case, this is not possible due to the slight slope of the land. Water obviously flows from top to bottom, not the other way around.
I hope my questions are understandable based on the photos, and I will add comments from the two experts (GSV: court-appointed expert, PSV: private expert).
The GSV assumes in their report that the planned fill height corresponds to the top edge of the foundation slab, not the top edge of the finished floor.
The PSV assumes the filling is up to the top edge of the finished floor, since he had visited the construction site earlier when the entrance area was still paved, with lawn edging stones installed on both sides of the entrance (both paving and lawn edging stones were done by the builder).
I want to fill up again to the top edge of the finished floor, not only for aesthetic reasons.
The GSV’s opinion is that the foundation slab only needs to be waterproofed against ground moisture according to DIN 18195-4.
The PSV does not specify a DIN standard as binding but describes waterproofing differently. He would, if in doubt, waterproof against the load case of rising seepage or pressurized water.
To me this sounds like: the soil’s infiltration capacity is unknown, so water might not be drainable via drainage. In that case, waterproofing according to DIN 18195 for pressurized water would be required.
Problem 1.
(see Photo 2, Photo 3, and Photo 4. Photo 4 shows that the height of the curb plaster matches the height of the top edge of the finished floor.)
The GSV believes the horizontal waterproofing is located approximately at the bottom edge height of the curb plaster.
The bituminous waterproofing (KMB) must be 3 mm thick.
The KMB waterproofing must extend at least 10 cm (4 inches) below the horizontal waterproofing.
From his point of view, nothing else is needed except some repair where stones have pressed into the waterproofing or where the waterproofing is not sticking properly in spots.
The PSV states that the KMB coating was not applied down to the protruding concrete surfaces. A fillet was not formed. Documentation about KMB waterproofing regarding processing guidelines must be followed, etc. (From his detailed explanations, it sounds to me like everything might need to be removed and redone.) A soil report is needed. Possibly drainage and a permeable soakaway or infiltration trench along with an inspection option.
In my opinion, the horizontal waterproofing is about 16 cm (6.3 inches) lower than the height stated by the GSV, because I have to subtract the floor build-up from the floor edge upward (tiles, tile adhesive, screed, and insulation).
Then I cannot reach 10 cm (4 inches) everywhere and I also need to repair the waterproofing height here. This is not easy because the lower edges of the KMB waterproofing are sticking out and can even tear off. Still, the amount I have to do is much less than what the PSV describes.
After these two very different assessments, I can only say HELP. What should the waterproofing really look like?
Problem 2.
Compacted soil (Photo 3). No comments from the experts, only from a well-known architect.
The “overflowed” foundation slab has compacted the soil at this point. I am supposed to chip this off.
Is this necessary?
Problem 3.
Soil fill. (see also Photo 7, this is how it looks after heavy rain)
The GSV made a profile sketch (see profile_sketch.jpg) and believes the soil report is of secondary importance since the building is not basemented and the plot has been backfilled. In this case, the exposure situation “ground moisture” applies.
To me the sketch is not correct. On the street side, the house is 80 cm (31.5 inches) below the top edge of the street.
On the garden side, eventually the street level is lower than the house. But my question is: can surface water from the front side flow under the foundation slab to the other side and infiltrate there? Or does he mean something else?
Problem 4.
Protection measures against mechanical damage to the waterproofing layers.
The PSV criticizes that the protection against mechanical damage by undefined polystyrene boards is insufficient. He did not mention how it should be done properly.
The GSV says nothing about this.
How do I protect the waterproofing properly? Dimpled membrane and polystyrene for insulation?
Problem 5.
L-shaped retaining wall (Photo 5) (the dampest corner)
GSV’s opinion: the missing waterproofing on the L-shaped wall can be partially reworked without removing the entire L-wall.
PSV does not consider professional waterproofing around the L-walls without removal feasible. Also, a protective view layer towards the building wall and waterproofing should be installed at this time. There should also be waterproofing applied over the splash water zone, about 30 cm (12 inches) above the water-bearing level here at the top edge of the angle stones and to the sides. (This last sentence is unclear to me.)
Should I really have the L-walls removed and then waterproofed? I don’t want to think about that, because I would also have to disturb and then repair the neighbor’s property.
How do I apply waterproofing over the splash water zone, or is that not so important?
Problem 6.
Neighbor’s drainage (Photo 6. After the first heavy rain, water came out of the drainage.)
GSV opinion: the drains here are no problem because the drainage pipe is heavily clogged. The current condition of these drainage pipes under the assumption of “ground moisture” exposure does not lead to increased moisture stress on the waterproofing, since in this case no water flows through the drainage pipe.
PSV criticizes that the excavation pit of my house is used as a runoff and that the drainage water from the neighbor’s building should be managed on their own property with technical solutions.
I get along well with the neighbor. He also bought the house from the same builder and fixed moisture issues at his own expense in some areas.
Now I need to find an affordable solution to at least “block” the drainage water so that no water reaches my property. I appreciate any reasonable suggestions.
Problem 7.
Frost protection for rainwater pipe (Photo 8. Level at 50 cm (20 inches))
GSV says he measured 35 cm (14 inches) in the unfinished state and assumes that after the completion of the exterior works, sufficient cover and frost protection for the main pipe will be ensured.
PSV only writes that a cover of about 50 cm (20 inches) is proper.
Since I don’t even reach 35 cm (14 inches) when filling up to the top edge of the finished floor, and according to initial findings, the rainwater pipe cannot be laid any deeper (the slope in the uncovered area is already minimal), I wonder if I can insulate the rainwater pipe differently.
Is wrapping the rainwater pipe with fleece or other materials sufficient for insulation? (I know this is not professional, but maybe still durable and acceptable.)
Here I want to add that if I fill up to the top edge of the foundation slab, I would still have to subtract 16 cm (6.3 inches) from the 35 cm (14 inches). That would leave me with a soil cover of max. 19 cm (7.5 inches).
I know this is a lot of questions, but I can’t get any further without help.
Thank you for any assistance.
Adriane
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