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immermehr14 May 2019 15:53Hello everyone,
I have received a quote from the developer (Heinz von Heiden) for my planned house (Arcus 160 - 152.57 m² (after WoFIV) and 164.79 m² (after DIN 277)).
It is a combined unit (water tank and indoor unit integrated).
According to the offer, the unit is designed for 170 m² (1,830 sq ft).
- What are your opinions?
- My friend thinks that the indoor unit will need repairs or maintenance again. If it is combined with the water tank, it might be difficult.
- What has your experience been with this type of unit so far?
Thank you for your answers.
I have received a quote from the developer (Heinz von Heiden) for my planned house (Arcus 160 - 152.57 m² (after WoFIV) and 164.79 m² (after DIN 277)).
It is a combined unit (water tank and indoor unit integrated).
According to the offer, the unit is designed for 170 m² (1,830 sq ft).
- What are your opinions?
- My friend thinks that the indoor unit will need repairs or maintenance again. If it is combined with the water tank, it might be difficult.
- What has your experience been with this type of unit so far?
Thank you for your answers.
Forget that quote... Designing a heating system based solely on square meters of living or heated area is completely wrong. That’s just sales talk or a sales calculation. For example, would a heat pump sized for 170 m2 (1830 sq ft) of living space be enough to heat a house on the Zugspitze, in Cologne, Alaska, or the Congo? Make sure the heat pump is sized according to a proper heat load calculation and the underfloor heating design. And don’t let the system be oversized.
We have had a system like this from Heinz von Heiden in operation for 5 months now, including cooling functionality.
So far, it does what it is supposed to do. It would be bad if it didn’t. I can’t really say much more yet—neither positive nor negative.
Regarding the design of such a heating system: I think relating it to the living area is easier for the average user to understand than heating load. This approach will probably cover 85 to 90% of cases, especially when preparing a quotation. For the building permit / planning permission or the energy performance certificate, a detailed calculation must be provided anyway, right?
So far, it does what it is supposed to do. It would be bad if it didn’t. I can’t really say much more yet—neither positive nor negative.
Regarding the design of such a heating system: I think relating it to the living area is easier for the average user to understand than heating load. This approach will probably cover 85 to 90% of cases, especially when preparing a quotation. For the building permit / planning permission or the energy performance certificate, a detailed calculation must be provided anyway, right?
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boxandroof20 Aug 2019 09:37There is a database for real energy consumption of heat pumps, similar to Spritmonitor, which you can find through your search engine. Its reliability is limited to specific conditions, but it provides a useful reference point.
The heat pump should not be oversized, and the surface heating system should be optimized for the lowest possible supply temperatures. For this, a room-by-room heating load calculation is used. Ideally, you should also specify your desired room temperatures (is 24°C (75°F) required in the bathroom according to the standard?). Request this calculation and the resulting maximum supply temperature early on, so you know what to expect. More than 35°C (95°F) is not allowed in new builds, and a target of up to 30°C (86°F) should be aimed for. Avoid buffer tanks and individual room controls. You can find a lot of information on all these topics online from other homeowners.
The heat pump should not be oversized, and the surface heating system should be optimized for the lowest possible supply temperatures. For this, a room-by-room heating load calculation is used. Ideally, you should also specify your desired room temperatures (is 24°C (75°F) required in the bathroom according to the standard?). Request this calculation and the resulting maximum supply temperature early on, so you know what to expect. More than 35°C (95°F) is not allowed in new builds, and a target of up to 30°C (86°F) should be aimed for. Avoid buffer tanks and individual room controls. You can find a lot of information on all these topics online from other homeowners.
Winjoe1 schrieb:No, the certificates have little to do with the actual heating system design, as @lesmue79 has pointed out. Construction companies often take the easy route here at the expense of homeowners and make rough estimates. It’s better to err on the side of a slightly larger system, so the homeowner never feels cold.
For the building permit / planning permission or the energy performance certificate, a detailed calculation must be submitted anyway!??
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