ᐅ Extending a Ground Source Heat Pump System to Heat a Small Indoor Pool
Created on: 19 Mar 2023 21:24
J
jx7
Hello everyone,
Would it be feasible to connect an additional heating circuit for a small indoor pool (9 sqm (97 sq ft) surface area) to a geothermal heat pump (Ecoforest C3 3-12 kW HTR EH with 2x 99 m (325 ft) boreholes)?
The capacity of the heat pump should actually be sufficient, both considering the ground loop (2x 99 m (325 ft)) and the heat pump itself (12 kW):
- It is not an outdoor pool that cools down significantly at night.
- The initial heating of the pool could take place during the summer.
- The pool’s heat is not lost but remains inside the house.
- If the capacity is not enough during the coldest winter months to heat both the house and the pool simultaneously, it would not be a problem; the pool simply would not be heated during that time.
- In an emergency, the pool’s internal heater (4 kW electric heater) could also be used.
Here are all the relevant details:
Currently, 190 sqm (2045 sq ft) of underfloor heating and the domestic hot water for 5 people run through the geothermal heat pump.
The house has nearly KfW-55-standard:
Final energy demand: 21.4 kWh/(m²·a)
Primary energy demand: 51.4 kWh/(m²·a)
Thermal performance of the building envelope: 0.25 W/(m²·K)
Room dimensions:
5.08 m x 4.65 m x 2.31 m (16.7 ft x 15.3 ft x 7.6 ft)
Pool size:
246 cm (width) x 460 cm (length) – external (8.1 ft x 15.1 ft)
213 cm (width) x 427 cm (length) – internal (7.0 ft x 14.0 ft)
Desired water temperature: 28°C (82°F)
The basement is a waterproof concrete shell with excellent insulation. The house was built in 2016 and nearly meets KfW-55-standard.
I would appreciate knowledgeable answers and/or experiences from homeowners!
Would it be feasible to connect an additional heating circuit for a small indoor pool (9 sqm (97 sq ft) surface area) to a geothermal heat pump (Ecoforest C3 3-12 kW HTR EH with 2x 99 m (325 ft) boreholes)?
The capacity of the heat pump should actually be sufficient, both considering the ground loop (2x 99 m (325 ft)) and the heat pump itself (12 kW):
- It is not an outdoor pool that cools down significantly at night.
- The initial heating of the pool could take place during the summer.
- The pool’s heat is not lost but remains inside the house.
- If the capacity is not enough during the coldest winter months to heat both the house and the pool simultaneously, it would not be a problem; the pool simply would not be heated during that time.
- In an emergency, the pool’s internal heater (4 kW electric heater) could also be used.
Here are all the relevant details:
Currently, 190 sqm (2045 sq ft) of underfloor heating and the domestic hot water for 5 people run through the geothermal heat pump.
The house has nearly KfW-55-standard:
Final energy demand: 21.4 kWh/(m²·a)
Primary energy demand: 51.4 kWh/(m²·a)
Thermal performance of the building envelope: 0.25 W/(m²·K)
Room dimensions:
5.08 m x 4.65 m x 2.31 m (16.7 ft x 15.3 ft x 7.6 ft)
Pool size:
246 cm (width) x 460 cm (length) – external (8.1 ft x 15.1 ft)
213 cm (width) x 427 cm (length) – internal (7.0 ft x 14.0 ft)
Desired water temperature: 28°C (82°F)
The basement is a waterproof concrete shell with excellent insulation. The house was built in 2016 and nearly meets KfW-55-standard.
I would appreciate knowledgeable answers and/or experiences from homeowners!
WilderSueden schrieb:
The storage tank, on the one hand, is significantly warmer (40°C (104°F) or higher) and has a less favorable volume-to-surface-area ratio. But this brings me to the question of what kind of pool this is supposed to be. It’s too warm to be a plunge pool after the sauna, too cold for a wellness pool, and too small for swimming."Endless Pool Performance" with counter-current system
i_b_n_a_n schrieb:
The counter-current system (pretty cool thing ;-) causes turbulence, larger surfaces, and thus increased heat loss from water to air. I would predict that you could try to calculate it. But if the input parameters are vague, the result will be uncertain as well.Can you calculate something like this? If not, who could do this calculation for me?
With 10m3 (353 cubic feet) of water and 12kW of heating capacity, it is sufficient to heat the "pool." It must always be covered when not in use.
However, this is only enough if you do not need heating for the house. The heat loss will be around 2–3 degrees Celsius (36–37.5 degrees Fahrenheit).
The required dehumidification system will consume a significant amount of electricity.
However, this is only enough if you do not need heating for the house. The heat loss will be around 2–3 degrees Celsius (36–37.5 degrees Fahrenheit).
The required dehumidification system will consume a significant amount of electricity.
rick2018 schrieb:
With 10m³ (13 cubic yards) of water and 12kW of heating capacity, it’s enough to heat the “pool.” It just needs to be covered whenever not in use.
However, this only works if you don’t need any heating power for the house. The heat loss will be around 2-3°C (4-5°F).
The required dehumidification system will consume a significant amount of electricity. It is clear that the 12kW ground source heat pump is sufficient to heat the pool if no heating is needed for the house.
A 4kW electric heater is included. This would even be sufficient to bring the pool up to operating temperature if the pool were located outdoors.
The question is whether, once the pool is heated (in summer), a 1kW heater might be enough to maintain the pool temperature over the winter, so that 11kW from the 12kW heat pump could still be available for the house.
If the full 12kW is needed to heat the house during the coldest weeks of the year, the pool could remain unheated during those weeks.
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Regarding dehumidification:
The pool is covered when not in use. Moisture generated during use should be extracted outdoors via a bathroom fan with heat recovery.
The originally planned solution (venting through an existing central mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery) does not seem feasible:
https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/poolraum-an-kontrollierte-wohnraumlueftung-anschliessen-chlorwasser-kondensation.45213/
Sorry, but the seller is giving you completely wrong information.
A 4 kW heater is sufficient only if the pool is covered and the outside temperature is close to the desired temperature.
Indoors, 4 kW can be enough with 24-hour heating operation and lower water temperatures.
And no, 1 kW will not maintain the water temperature for you.
You will lose between 2–3 degrees Celsius (35.6–37.4 degrees Fahrenheit) of heat per day.
For a 10 m³ (353 cubic feet) pool, you need between 23.2 kWh and 34.8 kWh just to compensate for the heat loss. The loss is even higher during use.
Not to mention if you want to raise the water temperature.
Together with the 4 kW heater, it will be enough to maintain the temperature, but that means almost continuous circulation and heating 24 hours a day.
Sorry to be so blunt. Pools are often sold with poor equipment. Later, users complain about poor water quality, operating costs, and so on.
A 4 kW heater is sufficient only if the pool is covered and the outside temperature is close to the desired temperature.
Indoors, 4 kW can be enough with 24-hour heating operation and lower water temperatures.
And no, 1 kW will not maintain the water temperature for you.
You will lose between 2–3 degrees Celsius (35.6–37.4 degrees Fahrenheit) of heat per day.
For a 10 m³ (353 cubic feet) pool, you need between 23.2 kWh and 34.8 kWh just to compensate for the heat loss. The loss is even higher during use.
Not to mention if you want to raise the water temperature.
Together with the 4 kW heater, it will be enough to maintain the temperature, but that means almost continuous circulation and heating 24 hours a day.
Sorry to be so blunt. Pools are often sold with poor equipment. Later, users complain about poor water quality, operating costs, and so on.
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