Hello,
we are considering covering the concrete screed in our house with epoxy resin to achieve a concrete-look floor through the epoxy.
Does anyone have information about the cost per square meter (without screed, as that is required anyway)?
Are there any significant disadvantages?
Thank you very much for your answers.
we are considering covering the concrete screed in our house with epoxy resin to achieve a concrete-look floor through the epoxy.
Does anyone have information about the cost per square meter (without screed, as that is required anyway)?
Are there any significant disadvantages?
Thank you very much for your answers.
Hello wrobel,
yes, there are some practical experiences.
But first, a word about the appearance: we did not aim for a concrete look with this coating, rather something like an epoxy resin finish. We have enough real concrete visible in the house already.
The application process is actually very easy. Primer on Friday, apply the resin on Saturday, transparent seal coat on Sunday, done. Two people, about 75 sqm (800 sq ft).
It smells for about a week, then no more. The floor is smooth; I barely dared to step on it the next day because it still looked completely wet. The mixing of the hardener with the resin was the annoying part. It was quite exhausting but must be done 100% correctly so the mixture cures fully later. Once a batch is mixed, the content is simply poured out and spread with a notched trowel with a long handle, very easy. The material is self-leveling but therefore also flows into every little crack.
The total cost including primer and seal coat was about 12 USD per sqm (about 1.10 USD per sq ft).
yes, there are some practical experiences.
But first, a word about the appearance: we did not aim for a concrete look with this coating, rather something like an epoxy resin finish. We have enough real concrete visible in the house already.
The application process is actually very easy. Primer on Friday, apply the resin on Saturday, transparent seal coat on Sunday, done. Two people, about 75 sqm (800 sq ft).
It smells for about a week, then no more. The floor is smooth; I barely dared to step on it the next day because it still looked completely wet. The mixing of the hardener with the resin was the annoying part. It was quite exhausting but must be done 100% correctly so the mixture cures fully later. Once a batch is mixed, the content is simply poured out and spread with a notched trowel with a long handle, very easy. The material is self-leveling but therefore also flows into every little crack.
The total cost including primer and seal coat was about 12 USD per sqm (about 1.10 USD per sq ft).
D
dekofrank4 Jul 2016 14:58Hello everyone in the forum. We are a new, young company focusing on the challenges of home coatings. The result is a designer product now available in various colors and effects, including transparent and tinted transparent options. Design coatings are the trend of today. We provide all the tips you need for your coating projects, whether on floors, garage floors, screed, existing surfaces like tiles or stone, wood, furniture surfaces, kitchen counters, worktops, or anywhere else. Feel free to visit us or contact us by email. I am always interested in exchanging ideas. Dekofrank from decorelle© Design Coatings. decorelle.de
Hello "One00".
You should reconsider the idea of "just pouring it and that's it."
For reactive resin-based synthetic resins, you can expect material costs of about €12 to €15 for epoxy resins and around €18 to €27 per kg.
The purpose of reactive resin coatings, which are usually applied in layers about 2mm (0.08 inches) thick and then spiked to remove air bubbles, is not to level out unevenness of the substrate. Especially after smoothing with a rubber squeegee, you will neither achieve an even application thickness nor a uniform surface appearance.
Application can be challenging for a layperson, as there are several important points to consider already during the mixing of the components, which must be classified as at least "IRRITANT" in their liquid state. That was your first question.
Without the proper tools and experience regarding the correct speed of the basket mixer, it just won’t work!
I have already mentioned the appearance. If you expect anything beyond zero tolerance, you need to understand the method of application and properly prepare the substrate.
This includes sanding, determining the surface tensile strength, and priming. Ignoring all this and hoping for a stroke of luck may result in unexpected disappointment within just two weeks.
By the way, removing the coating later is somewhat more complex than installing it correctly.
And what about long-term performance? As with any composite construction: if installed properly, there will be no change over the years in the original (visual) condition.
-------------------------------------
How you proceed from here is entirely up to you. I have no intention of lecturing others or pointing fingers.
I only want my professional advice from my area of expertise to encourage you to think things through.
Best regards and good luck: KlaRa
You should reconsider the idea of "just pouring it and that's it."
For reactive resin-based synthetic resins, you can expect material costs of about €12 to €15 for epoxy resins and around €18 to €27 per kg.
The purpose of reactive resin coatings, which are usually applied in layers about 2mm (0.08 inches) thick and then spiked to remove air bubbles, is not to level out unevenness of the substrate. Especially after smoothing with a rubber squeegee, you will neither achieve an even application thickness nor a uniform surface appearance.
Application can be challenging for a layperson, as there are several important points to consider already during the mixing of the components, which must be classified as at least "IRRITANT" in their liquid state. That was your first question.
Without the proper tools and experience regarding the correct speed of the basket mixer, it just won’t work!
I have already mentioned the appearance. If you expect anything beyond zero tolerance, you need to understand the method of application and properly prepare the substrate.
This includes sanding, determining the surface tensile strength, and priming. Ignoring all this and hoping for a stroke of luck may result in unexpected disappointment within just two weeks.
By the way, removing the coating later is somewhat more complex than installing it correctly.
And what about long-term performance? As with any composite construction: if installed properly, there will be no change over the years in the original (visual) condition.
-------------------------------------
How you proceed from here is entirely up to you. I have no intention of lecturing others or pointing fingers.
I only want my professional advice from my area of expertise to encourage you to think things through.
Best regards and good luck: KlaRa
Hello KlaRa, thanks for the tips. But it’s too late now.
I’ve had the material stored in my basement for about a year and am very satisfied with it. I would say it’s far from any kind of dismantling phase.
Of course, we followed all safety regulations during installation and especially when mixing the resin. The company where we ultimately bought the material advised us excellently and warned us about potential hazards from contact with the resin (allergic reactions).
By the way, the floor is not smooth at all, it just looks that way. This means that, although we didn’t add sand for grit, it is still very slip-resistant. We are very happy with the result and would do it exactly the same way again.
I’ve had the material stored in my basement for about a year and am very satisfied with it. I would say it’s far from any kind of dismantling phase.
Of course, we followed all safety regulations during installation and especially when mixing the resin. The company where we ultimately bought the material advised us excellently and warned us about potential hazards from contact with the resin (allergic reactions).
By the way, the floor is not smooth at all, it just looks that way. This means that, although we didn’t add sand for grit, it is still very slip-resistant. We are very happy with the result and would do it exactly the same way again.
B
Bieber081512 Jul 2016 06:48One00 schrieb:
The company where we ultimately bought the materials What exactly did you purchase?
2k epoxy resin coating in light gray instead of white due to better UV resistance.
Pour one container of resin into one container of base material, stir with a mixing stick for 5 minutes, transfer to another container and stir again for 3 minutes. Then pour out, spread with a notched trowel and, if necessary, degas, which in our case was actually not required.
Apply epoxy primer beforehand and a transparent top sealant afterwards. Extremely scratch-resistant, resistant to acids and plasticizers, very clean surface, and super easy to clean. Only two small bugs got trapped in it.
Pour one container of resin into one container of base material, stir with a mixing stick for 5 minutes, transfer to another container and stir again for 3 minutes. Then pour out, spread with a notched trowel and, if necessary, degas, which in our case was actually not required.
Apply epoxy primer beforehand and a transparent top sealant afterwards. Extremely scratch-resistant, resistant to acids and plasticizers, very clean surface, and super easy to clean. Only two small bugs got trapped in it.