Hello,
Friends of ours have already built with the same general contractor as we are using. They are already living in their house, and ours is currently under construction.
According to their circuit breaker panel, the electrical wiring is set up so that, for example, the bedroom light upstairs, the children’s room upstairs, and the guest room downstairs are all on the same circuit breaker. So multiple rooms, both upstairs and downstairs, are on one breaker. I’m a bit unsure because someone recently told me that nowadays each room should be on its own circuit breaker. Is this still standard practice? Or is it outdated?
Their ventilation system is connected to the same residual current device (RCD or GFCI) as the outdoor sockets. Since the heating system is an exhaust air heat pump, it shuts off when it detects the ventilation is off.
This means that if something goes wrong outside and the RCD trips, the ventilation and thus the entire heating system also shuts down. Is this considered standard or proper practice?
Friends of ours have already built with the same general contractor as we are using. They are already living in their house, and ours is currently under construction.
According to their circuit breaker panel, the electrical wiring is set up so that, for example, the bedroom light upstairs, the children’s room upstairs, and the guest room downstairs are all on the same circuit breaker. So multiple rooms, both upstairs and downstairs, are on one breaker. I’m a bit unsure because someone recently told me that nowadays each room should be on its own circuit breaker. Is this still standard practice? Or is it outdated?
Their ventilation system is connected to the same residual current device (RCD or GFCI) as the outdoor sockets. Since the heating system is an exhaust air heat pump, it shuts off when it detects the ventilation is off.
This means that if something goes wrong outside and the RCD trips, the ventilation and thus the entire heating system also shuts down. Is this considered standard or proper practice?
Joedreck schrieb:
As already mentioned, many separate lighting circuits from power outlets.That makes sense: you don’t end up in complete darkness, only the ceiling light or the floor lamp goes out, but not both at the same time.
Joedreck schrieb:
I definitely wouldn’t combine two rooms nowadays.I think that’s an exaggeration, and as you yourself say
Joedreck schrieb:
Similarly, the stove/oven, dishwasher, and washing machine each get their own circuit breakerit makes sense to base this on the electrical load.
In the guest bathroom, it’s not worth giving the light and shaver socket their own circuit, whereas in the utility room it’s better if the dryer doesn’t also cut power to the freezer.
Outdoor sockets and exterior lighting (to which you might also connect a break-in tool, after all) I would group together, but always separate from all indoor circuits; and lighting controlled by the alarm system should of course be on a separate circuit again.
In the bedroom, you have a clock radio and possibly a second TV, while the living room with all its entertainment electronics definitely warrants its own circuit or even several.
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I generally agree with you that some rooms don’t necessarily need their own circuit breaker. However, here’s my take: what does a 50-meter (165 feet) cable reel and a circuit breaker actually cost?
The house is built once, and from experience with various renovations, I know that electrical needs can change over time.
Those few dollars are worth it to me to have each room individually protected.
The approach to the outdoor areas is cautious and perfectly reasonable.
The house is built once, and from experience with various renovations, I know that electrical needs can change over time.
Those few dollars are worth it to me to have each room individually protected.
The approach to the outdoor areas is cautious and perfectly reasonable.
You forget the ripple effect...
More circuits and circuit breakers mean:
- More space needed in the cabinet and utility room
- More small components (rails, terminals)
- More labor time
- Larger documentation
- More potential sources of errors
So, more and more costs... it’s not just about more cables and more circuit breakers.
More circuits and circuit breakers mean:
- More space needed in the cabinet and utility room
- More small components (rails, terminals)
- More labor time
- Larger documentation
- More potential sources of errors
So, more and more costs... it’s not just about more cables and more circuit breakers.
Joedreck schrieb:
I basically agree with you that some rooms don’t necessarily need their own circuit breaker. However, here’s my point: how much does a 50-meter (165-foot) extension cable and a circuit breaker actually cost? The house is built just once, and from various renovations I know that electrical needs can change over time. For just a few dollars more, it’s worth it to me to have each room protected individually.
Your approach to the outdoor areas is careful and completely appropriate.
You haven’t started building yet, or are you still very early in the process? That saying, ‘you only build once,’ can easily end up costing an extra 10% across all trades if you’re lucky.
I bought a house seven years ago and completely renovated it myself after a fire damage.
Now I am about to start a second project.
There are things that can be easily changed afterward, and there are trades that should definitely be done right the first time. For me, electrical work is one of those. In 1960, the standards for installations were different than today. That’s why buildings were constructed “sparingly.” Nowadays, old buildings often lack enough outlets, fuses trip, etc.
Today’s new build will eventually become an old building too. And whether you have different needs in 30 years or need/want to sell the house: proper electrical work is crucial considering the cost.
If the cost fails because the breaker panel needs an extra row and the rail can’t be paid for, then I would (and this is really just my personal opinion) reconsider your own expectations.
The most expensive part is the labor. Anyone can really pull wires if they follow instructions. I wouldn’t cut corners here. The worst thing is regretting it years later with a “I should have done it differently.”
Now I am about to start a second project.
There are things that can be easily changed afterward, and there are trades that should definitely be done right the first time. For me, electrical work is one of those. In 1960, the standards for installations were different than today. That’s why buildings were constructed “sparingly.” Nowadays, old buildings often lack enough outlets, fuses trip, etc.
Today’s new build will eventually become an old building too. And whether you have different needs in 30 years or need/want to sell the house: proper electrical work is crucial considering the cost.
If the cost fails because the breaker panel needs an extra row and the rail can’t be paid for, then I would (and this is really just my personal opinion) reconsider your own expectations.
The most expensive part is the labor. Anyone can really pull wires if they follow instructions. I wouldn’t cut corners here. The worst thing is regretting it years later with a “I should have done it differently.”
We have a building from 1969 in our portfolio, structurally absolutely fine. Unfortunately, it still has a two-pole electrical system without any RCDs. We need to address that... and it will be costly. Since everything is installed flush-mounted in the walls. The only really cheap option would be a 1961 standard, with all wiring surface-mounted, making upgrades much easier. – Therefore: if it’s new, it should be done properly right away here. Karsten
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