ᐅ Electrical specification review with developer preparation

Created on: 2 Jul 2021 13:15

Hello dear forum members,
to keep it brief: Next Monday we have the electrical planning meeting for the shell of our upcoming semi-detached house.
We have already considered the basics (location of light fixtures, switches, motors, power outlets, network sockets), but I would like to clarify a few points before I have to deal with the probably rather unmotivated electrician from the builder on Monday 🙂

Preparation for Wallbox: We would like to have the necessary connections (11 kW, 3-phase) prepared so we can connect a wallbox charger in the future. The plan is to install the wallbox on the outer wall of the house (36cm (14 inches) aerated concrete). Will the raw cables just stick out of a hole, or how is this typically done? In case I later decide not to mount the wallbox directly on the wall but further back in the garden, could the wiring be “extended”?
Network Access Point: Network sockets are planned in several rooms, partly single, partly double (please don’t criticize me for not having all double, I can still add more later. The number of sockets was negotiated in the contract). Some are in aerated concrete, some in drywall. In both the ground floor corridor and the upper floor corridor, I have planned network sockets to install Ubiquiti PoE access points. Since I won’t be able to embed the device in the concrete ceiling anymore, the plan is at least on the ground floor to mount it relatively high on the wall. Is there anything special to consider here, or will the connection be prepared like a “normal” network socket, and then the flat access point is just plugged in? Between the upper floor and the attic is a wooden ceiling (not built yet). Could I plan to mount it there on the ceiling, or will the electrician laugh at me and say that’s not possible?
Network Wiring: If I understand correctly, the electrician will run the in-wall cabling inside to the sockets. These cables end somewhere, hopefully in the utility room, where they must be connected to a patch panel. Do I have to do this myself, or is this included when the builder contract states “installation of 10 network sockets”? Then from the patch panel, a patch cable goes per run into the switch, which is connected via patch cable to LAN1 of the router.
"Smart" Roller Shutter Motors: All our roller shutters will be motorized; unfortunately, the contract does not specify which motor. We would like to control the shutters via app so we can close or open everything while sitting on the couch downstairs. What makes the most sense here? Upgrading to a “smart” motor for probably quite some extra cost? Or just smartifying the switches? I’ve also read you can simply ask the electrician to make the wall box recess a bit deeper to install a 2.5 or similar Shelly smart relay between the switch and motor if needed. Do electricians usually agree to this, or are there warranty issues? Any other suggestions?
Power Supply for the Garden: We would like to have electricity in the garden area, for example where the shed or carport will be later. We are not 100% certain yet where exactly the shed and carport will be, so we cannot give the electrician precise information. How can this be prepared? Conduits are not flexible either.
Intercom System: Our semi-detached house is on a great lot, about 55m (180 feet) from the street. Since the house next door is currently for sale and we don’t know what the buyers will do, there is currently no gate at the front. Surely one will be installed later; should we already have a conduit installed there? A modern video intercom at the gate probably won’t work as there will be no internet connection. Or could I have a network cable run in a conduit to the front and then connect a camera with Power over Ethernet there?

Well, it turned out a bit longer than expected, sorry.
I hope you can still help me a bit so I can tell the electrician exactly what I want and not be brushed off with comments like “no, that’s not how it’s done.”
Best regards

vorkalmatador3 Jul 2021 21:06

Thank you for your very insightful tips. I am now up to date regarding network cabling and will definitely consider using keystone modules.

And I, being foolish, thought electrical conduits were rigid, like PVC pipes, for example. I looked it up again and found that they are actually flexible tubes. That certainly makes many things easier. Can they simply be stored on a roll and then buried as needed?

I will also take into account the advice to have LAN cabling installed to the charging station. Thanks!

K1300S3 Jul 2021 21:21

Better take a look at the specific wallbox you want. Ours also has LAN, but you will need a (separate) OCPP backend for it. Since the box also supports RS485, we are running a cable for that as well, which should make it easier to get direct access to the charging data.

hampshire3 Jul 2021 22:04

If you want to stay flexible, install more empty conduits than you currently need. One for each possible charging station location, and one for possible garden shed locations – it’s especially practical to cross sealed surfaces underground in good time. You can still pull cables for the intercom system later. Not everything has to be buried deep. The important thing is that you can access it – if necessary, install an empty conduit underneath a driveway...

vorkalmatador13 Jul 2021 14:01

#10

Since this often gets overlooked, here’s an update:
Your advice was very helpful, and the selection process went really smoothly. The electrician was friendly, offered his own ideas, and also responded well to my requests.

Preparation for the wall box is no problem.
Regarding outdoor power, I just need to specify what I require (three-phase power or standard lighting/outlets) and where; this will be installed in conduit on a reel.
Conduit from the roof to the utility room is also being prepared for the upcoming photovoltaic installation.
“Smart” roller shutter motor: he said he could offer me something “smart,” but it would naturally be quite expensive. The motors will always have a deep junction box and be connected with five-core cable, so he recommended that I simply add devices like Shelly later as a DIY project for a fraction of the cost. That’s what we’re doing now.
Network installation: upgrading from single to duplex ports costs an additional 25€; I chose duplex ports everywhere now (except for the two on the ground and upper floors reserved for the Unifi devices, which are single). He wasn’t familiar with mounting the Unifi devices on the ceiling. He would have just installed a network outlet in the ceiling, but I asked him to install a deep flush-mounted box and attach a keystone module to the cable as described by @hanse987. I’ll then connect a 10cm (4 inch) patch cable to that and plug in the Unifi device. That’s no problem for him and will be done accordingly.
The “end” of the network cables will also have a keystone module attached, to which I will connect patch cables to reach the switch. Is that okay, or should I insist that the cables be bundled and wired into a patch panel? I didn’t want to contradict directly but first wanted to get your opinion.

Best regards!

borderpuschl13 Jul 2021 14:09

#11

Where do your network cables terminate? In a server cabinet or at the distribution panel?
If you want to install them on the multimedia board at the distribution, Hager also offers patch panels that can be equipped directly with keystone jacks. If it’s in the server cabinet, then connect directly to a patch panel.

untergasse4313 Jul 2021 14:10

#12

vorkalmatador schrieb:

The “end” of the network cabling looks like this: a keystone module is installed there, and I have to connect patch cables to it in order to reach the switch. Is this okay, or should I insist that everything be bundled and connected to a patch panel? I didn’t want to disagree right away but wanted to get your opinions first.

Definitely not directly to the patch panel! Keystone jacks are always the clearly better solution and much more flexible. You’ll just need a patch panel for the keystone jacks, which are available for multimedia enclosures as well as 19” racks. I would always put something like that in its own cabinet, no matter how small it ends up being. You are too limited if you do it in the distribution board.

ᐅ Electrical specification review with developer preparation

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