ᐅ Electric gate opener, doorbell, and release all on a single cable

Created on: 19 Jan 2022 01:31
A
Andre77
Hey,

I hope you can help me solve my problem. Maybe it’s quite simple...

I have an electrical cable under the paving in the driveway that was originally intended for an electric gate. If you use a double-leaf gate, both leaves need to be powered. So, I assume you can run the existing cable to the first gate post, then branch it off to the second post. I hope my thinking is correct so far?

Now it gets a bit more complicated. If there is a doorbell on the gate, it also needs power. I got a Ring Doorbell Pro, which – as I found out – can be powered continuously via a power supply instead of having to replace the battery whenever needed. The idea would be to tap into that same cable to provide continuous power to the Ring, and inside the house there would be a chime that rings when someone is at the gate.

I noticed that many gate openers operate on 24V, which is also what the Ring requires, as it comes with a transformer for the electrical panel (distribution board). So if you connect the Ring to the gate opener, you wouldn’t need to install the transformer in the electrical panel. Additionally, I’m thinking about installing an electric door strike for the gate’s pedestrian door that could be triggered wirelessly to open it remotely from the house...

Maybe you have other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
PhiIipp9 Feb 2022 15:15
Andre77 schrieb:

The fence installer uses BFT gate operators.

Does anyone have any helpful information for me? 🙂

Hi, I just quickly checked with BFT.
Regarding the gates I looked at, they use their "Thalia L" control unit.
It is powered by 230 V and has a built-in 24 V transformer.
You can tap the 24 V directly on terminals 50 and 51 inside the control box to power your doorbell. So you would need to run wiring from inside the house to the gate and from the gate to the doorbell, which means you can save an additional transformer and the wiring for powering the doorbell.

I hope this helps you a bit.

EDIT: Took me a little longer than expected, but the effort was worth it. The Phobos BT A25 is also controlled by this Thalia L unit. So that fits perfectly.


3D view of a control cabinet interior with transformer, circuit board and components

Schematic control device: main circuit board, connections and 24V power supply, marked supply lines.
rick20189 Feb 2022 15:21
That's exactly what I meant. So no additional box is necessary.
The data can be found quickly. If this overwhelms you, it would be better to have a professional handle the wiring.
A
Andre77
9 Feb 2022 16:15
Thank you, thank you... no worries, I wouldn’t attempt that anyway... I was just concerned about the technical implementation and requirements.

I also just saw the instructions and the accessories.

Where I’m currently stuck is this: Is it really enough to run only two wires from the Thalia to the Ring doorbell? So AC/DC doesn’t matter?

@PhiIipp I understood tapping off the two contacts, but not how it continues from the gate to the motor and then from the motor to the doorbell. So the two wires go first to the gate motor and then continue to the doorbell? Not directly?
rick20189 Feb 2022 16:17
Yes, that is more than enough. Only two wires would come from the doorbell power supply anyway.
A
Andre77
9 Feb 2022 16:19
@rick2018 yes, I was aware that there are only two wires there, but that just seemed a bit too simple as a solution 😀
rick20189 Feb 2022 16:49
It doesn't always have to be complicated 😉

The only downside is that if the control unit fails, the doorbell will also lose power. However, it can also happen that the fuse blows, and the doorbell is connected to the same cable/fuse either way.