We are planning a new build. The footprint of the house: 10 x 14.5 meters (33 x 48 feet). Ground floor: a household of two retirees. Upstairs, a self-contained apartment for one person.
Heating options / power supply:
a) standard gas boiler
b) ground source heat pump, electricity from the grid
c) ground source heat pump, electricity from own photovoltaic system and possibly battery storage
d) ground source heat pump, electricity from own photovoltaic system, battery storage, and possibly cloud services
So far, we have no information about the price difference between purchasing a standard gas boiler and a ground source heat pump.
Two construction companies said a standard, affordable gas heating system would be sufficient since houses today are so well insulated that the heating demand is not very high. But is that future-proof?
And if a heat pump is chosen, is it better to have electricity supplied from an own photovoltaic system? With or without storage? In addition, a cloud solution?
Heating options / power supply:
a) standard gas boiler
b) ground source heat pump, electricity from the grid
c) ground source heat pump, electricity from own photovoltaic system and possibly battery storage
d) ground source heat pump, electricity from own photovoltaic system, battery storage, and possibly cloud services
So far, we have no information about the price difference between purchasing a standard gas boiler and a ground source heat pump.
Two construction companies said a standard, affordable gas heating system would be sufficient since houses today are so well insulated that the heating demand is not very high. But is that future-proof?
And if a heat pump is chosen, is it better to have electricity supplied from an own photovoltaic system? With or without storage? In addition, a cloud solution?
L
ludwig88sta18 Dec 2019 16:48boxandroof schrieb:
We have also installed the new Geisha since early 208:
..
- Heating element is disconnected (-12°C (10°F) standard AT, so relatively mild) So has it been providing excellent service for you for 1 year?
Why did you downgrade the monoenergetic heat pump to a monovalent heat pump?
boxandroof schrieb:
I opted out of smart control for photovoltaic integration, in my opinion it doesn’t bring much benefit. I make sure it ALWAYS runs during the heating season in the daytime – for me from 9 a.m. until at least 8 p.m. Because then it’s warmer and the sun might be shining. At night, when it’s coldest, it switches off depending on the outdoor temperature for 6 to 11 hours. If it’s very cold, it runs continuously. I adjust the heating curve with a timer for this.
Over the year, maybe 30% of the heating and hot water demand is covered by photovoltaic.
You can also simply run it 24/7. Depending on whether smart photovoltaic control is expensive. But if I control it (smart) so that I use as much heat pump electricity from my own photovoltaic system as possible, isn’t that always better?
Since you seem to have experience with Geisha – have you also tested what works better overall? Running it 24/7 or the way you currently do?
L
ludwig88sta18 Dec 2019 16:59Another question about the Geisha. During my research, I read the following: "The units can also be used for cooling in the summer." That’s a water-to-air heat pump. How should I understand this? With an air-to-air heat pump, it’s clear to me because cold air is simply used for cooling. But with a water-to-air heat pump? If I have underfloor heating, no one would pump cold water through it in summer for cooling, right? That would give you cold feet!
B
boxandroof18 Dec 2019 17:00Of course, in 2018.
The heating element runs continuously during defrosting, unnecessarily – and this cannot be fully prevented even with the control system. So I disconnected it – but it’s not mandatory.
The control unit costs around 200€ (approximately $220) from Panasonic. That’s not much, but even with a better control system, I don’t save that much.
I haven’t done any tests; it’s definitely easier to just keep it running 24/7 according to the heating curve. But look: if it’s 10°C (50°F) during the day, the heat demand often exceeds 7. At night, when it’s 3°C (37°F), it’s often off, which would worsen the heat demand AND there’s no sun then.
Cooling: yes, exactly like that. Cooler floors. But you have to be careful because of the dew point. Cooled vinyl flooring probably already feels warmer than uncooled tiles. You can also install cooling loops in the ceiling and turn off the underfloor heating in summer, but hardly anyone does that just for cooling.
The heating element runs continuously during defrosting, unnecessarily – and this cannot be fully prevented even with the control system. So I disconnected it – but it’s not mandatory.
The control unit costs around 200€ (approximately $220) from Panasonic. That’s not much, but even with a better control system, I don’t save that much.
I haven’t done any tests; it’s definitely easier to just keep it running 24/7 according to the heating curve. But look: if it’s 10°C (50°F) during the day, the heat demand often exceeds 7. At night, when it’s 3°C (37°F), it’s often off, which would worsen the heat demand AND there’s no sun then.
Cooling: yes, exactly like that. Cooler floors. But you have to be careful because of the dew point. Cooled vinyl flooring probably already feels warmer than uncooled tiles. You can also install cooling loops in the ceiling and turn off the underfloor heating in summer, but hardly anyone does that just for cooling.
ludwig88sta schrieb:
?? correct it There are already several threads on this topic, but in short: the consumer-level devices that flicker above the screen have little to do with a smart home and certainly do not enable controlling the devices remotely via smartphone, for example from the workplace. Operating roller shutters or switching lights remotely is not smart. It is what it is—simply a remote control.
ludwig88sta schrieb:
I hope that only heat pumps with intelligent control ("smart") will be installed from now on. Anything else would be a waste of money (at least currently with feed-in tariffs, etc.)!?Manufacturers don’t really care, nor do the heating installers. Of course, manufacturers want to build and sell the most efficient units, but since every house and every person is different, it is often up to the user to set up the system correctly.ludwig88sta schrieb:
With a low-temperature (LT) heat pump, it’s clear because you simply use cold air for cooling. But what about an air-to-water (AW) heat pump? If I have underfloor heating, no one actually pumps cold water through it in summer to cool, right? That would give you cold feet?!But that’s exactly how it works. Cold water through the underfloor heating. Although in this case, it’s more of a marketing tool.Similar topics