ᐅ Did I forget something with the first drywall partition?
Created on: 22 Mar 2016 08:59
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Hagiman2000
I want to build two drywall partitions myself in the basement of our new house. I have selected a thickness of 50mm (2 inches), but it can be increased to 75mm (3 inches) or 100mm (4 inches). Since the walls are only for room separation, 50mm (2 inches) should be sufficient.
The wall should be 2.6m (8.5 ft) high and 6m (19.7 ft) long including the door.
Currently, I find the number of 21 CW steel studs to be quite high. Other drywall calculators suggest 7-10.
Item: Quantity
Construction board (2,000 x 600 x 12.5 mm) 21
CW steel stud (2,600 x 50 x 50 mm) 21
UW track profile (2,000 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 7
White acrylic sealant 300 ml (10 fl oz) 5
One-sided adhesive sealing tape 50 mm (2 inches), 30 m (98 ft) 1
Expansion plug K6/35 (35 mm, 50 pcs) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.9 mm, length: 25 mm, countersunk head, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Partition wall boards / insulation material (1,250 x 625 x 40 mm) 3
Joint filler (25 kg, light gray) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.5 mm, length: 25 mm, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Door jamb bracket (50 x 130 x 135 mm, 4 pcs) 1
Lintel profile (1,600 x 50 x 40 mm) 1
Reinforcement profile UA (2,600 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 2
Door frame (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left/right, plain white, wall thickness: 80 mm) 1
Interior door (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left, plain white, honeycomb core) 1
The wall should be 2.6m (8.5 ft) high and 6m (19.7 ft) long including the door.
Currently, I find the number of 21 CW steel studs to be quite high. Other drywall calculators suggest 7-10.
Item: Quantity
Construction board (2,000 x 600 x 12.5 mm) 21
CW steel stud (2,600 x 50 x 50 mm) 21
UW track profile (2,000 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 7
White acrylic sealant 300 ml (10 fl oz) 5
One-sided adhesive sealing tape 50 mm (2 inches), 30 m (98 ft) 1
Expansion plug K6/35 (35 mm, 50 pcs) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.9 mm, length: 25 mm, countersunk head, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Partition wall boards / insulation material (1,250 x 625 x 40 mm) 3
Joint filler (25 kg, light gray) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.5 mm, length: 25 mm, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Door jamb bracket (50 x 130 x 135 mm, 4 pcs) 1
Lintel profile (1,600 x 50 x 40 mm) 1
Reinforcement profile UA (2,600 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 2
Door frame (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left/right, plain white, wall thickness: 80 mm) 1
Interior door (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left, plain white, honeycomb core) 1
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Hagiman200022 Mar 2016 22:33@One00
The walls are mainly intended just to divide the space (well, 1.5 of them). The basement is one large room. We want to divide part of it into a laundry/utility room, a storage cellar, and a home theater room. I would only double drywall the wall on the side facing the home theater. But you immediately mention two layers. Is that really necessary for a drywall partition wall that is meant to serve only as a room divider?
I don’t understand the idea of installing drywall sheets vertically onto vertical studs. In all the guides I found, it was done the other way around.
The walls are mainly intended just to divide the space (well, 1.5 of them). The basement is one large room. We want to divide part of it into a laundry/utility room, a storage cellar, and a home theater room. I would only double drywall the wall on the side facing the home theater. But you immediately mention two layers. Is that really necessary for a drywall partition wall that is meant to serve only as a room divider?
I don’t understand the idea of installing drywall sheets vertically onto vertical studs. In all the guides I found, it was done the other way around.
Double sheathing doesn't cost much more and provides significantly greater stability, better sound insulation, and allows you to attach items to the wall much more securely. Do you need these advantages today? Maybe not today, but possibly tomorrow.
The studs are always installed vertically. When one panel connects to four studs instead of two (because it is mounted horizontally), the entire structure logically becomes much more stable. The picture on Hornbach’s site looks professional, as I assume it shows the second layer installed perpendicular – that is, vertically – to the first layer.
The studs are always installed vertically. When one panel connects to four studs instead of two (because it is mounted horizontally), the entire structure logically becomes much more stable. The picture on Hornbach’s site looks professional, as I assume it shows the second layer installed perpendicular – that is, vertically – to the first layer.
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Hagiman200022 Mar 2016 23:04Okay. I had read that for a single layer, a minimum thickness of 12.5mm (0.5 inches) should be used. Can I then use 9.5mm (0.37 inches) for a double layer?
Yes, but why? Gain in space? Cost savings?
Seriously though, it’s doable, of course.
By the way, you can definitely install the 2.60m (8.5 ft) panels vertically, but then you need to adjust the stud spacing so that there is a stud on the left, right, and in the middle of each panel. For 60cm (24 inches) wide panels, this results in a stud-to-stud spacing of 30cm (12 inches) center to center... And when it comes to the studs, saving material does make sense—unlike with the panels—especially since apart from saving some time, there are hardly any other benefits.
So my advice:
- First layer OSB, then gypsum board. If gypsum board is preferred alone, then use two layers of gypsum board (9.5mm or 12.5mm (3/8 inch or 1/2 inch)) → benefits as mentioned above
- First layer horizontal, second layer vertical
- Use standard gypsum board screws. The ones with drill tips for metal studs are just expensive; from my experience, they don’t provide any additional advantage. If you work with OSB, use the appropriate screws for that.
- Putting in some effort during filling and jointing will save you lots of effort and mess when sanding later
Seriously though, it’s doable, of course.
By the way, you can definitely install the 2.60m (8.5 ft) panels vertically, but then you need to adjust the stud spacing so that there is a stud on the left, right, and in the middle of each panel. For 60cm (24 inches) wide panels, this results in a stud-to-stud spacing of 30cm (12 inches) center to center... And when it comes to the studs, saving material does make sense—unlike with the panels—especially since apart from saving some time, there are hardly any other benefits.
So my advice:
- First layer OSB, then gypsum board. If gypsum board is preferred alone, then use two layers of gypsum board (9.5mm or 12.5mm (3/8 inch or 1/2 inch)) → benefits as mentioned above
- First layer horizontal, second layer vertical
- Use standard gypsum board screws. The ones with drill tips for metal studs are just expensive; from my experience, they don’t provide any additional advantage. If you work with OSB, use the appropriate screws for that.
- Putting in some effort during filling and jointing will save you lots of effort and mess when sanding later
H
Hagiman200023 Mar 2016 10:01@One00
Thanks for all the tips. The drywall planner does not like it at all when you choose double drywall layers. Then it doesn’t allow me to install any doors.
I had chosen the Rigips single-person board “Die Weiße” 12.5
Hmm, with the following board I can choose double drywall layers:
Rigips construction board RB 9.5
2500 x 1250 mm (98 x 49 inches)
With this board, it becomes a bit more difficult to install one layer vertically and one horizontally. But a door opening is always more complicated when one layer is installed horizontally and the other vertically, right?
I’m still unclear about the door thickness. The minimum depth is 80mm (3 inches). The profile is 50mm (2 inches) + 12.5mm (0.5 inches) on each side, which adds up to 75mm (3 inches). That leaves a difference of 5mm (is that for the plaster?).
Thanks for all the tips. The drywall planner does not like it at all when you choose double drywall layers. Then it doesn’t allow me to install any doors.
* With the board format you selected, double drywall layers must be installed with staggered joints. In this case, it is no longer straightforward to properly construct openings for windows or doors while maintaining the minimum required distances. At the next step, you will have no possibility to create openings in the structure. If you want openings, you need to choose a large-format board, for example, the Rigips construction board RB 12.5.
I had chosen the Rigips single-person board “Die Weiße” 12.5
Hmm, with the following board I can choose double drywall layers:
Rigips construction board RB 9.5
2500 x 1250 mm (98 x 49 inches)
With this board, it becomes a bit more difficult to install one layer vertically and one horizontally. But a door opening is always more complicated when one layer is installed horizontally and the other vertically, right?
I’m still unclear about the door thickness. The minimum depth is 80mm (3 inches). The profile is 50mm (2 inches) + 12.5mm (0.5 inches) on each side, which adds up to 75mm (3 inches). That leaves a difference of 5mm (is that for the plaster?).
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