ᐅ Did I forget something with the first drywall partition?
Created on: 22 Mar 2016 08:59
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Hagiman2000H
Hagiman200022 Mar 2016 08:59I want to build two drywall partitions myself in the basement of our new house. I have selected a thickness of 50mm (2 inches), but it can be increased to 75mm (3 inches) or 100mm (4 inches). Since the walls are only for room separation, 50mm (2 inches) should be sufficient.
The wall should be 2.6m (8.5 ft) high and 6m (19.7 ft) long including the door.
Currently, I find the number of 21 CW steel studs to be quite high. Other drywall calculators suggest 7-10.
Item: Quantity
Construction board (2,000 x 600 x 12.5 mm) 21
CW steel stud (2,600 x 50 x 50 mm) 21
UW track profile (2,000 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 7
White acrylic sealant 300 ml (10 fl oz) 5
One-sided adhesive sealing tape 50 mm (2 inches), 30 m (98 ft) 1
Expansion plug K6/35 (35 mm, 50 pcs) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.9 mm, length: 25 mm, countersunk head, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Partition wall boards / insulation material (1,250 x 625 x 40 mm) 3
Joint filler (25 kg, light gray) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.5 mm, length: 25 mm, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Door jamb bracket (50 x 130 x 135 mm, 4 pcs) 1
Lintel profile (1,600 x 50 x 40 mm) 1
Reinforcement profile UA (2,600 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 2
Door frame (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left/right, plain white, wall thickness: 80 mm) 1
Interior door (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left, plain white, honeycomb core) 1
The wall should be 2.6m (8.5 ft) high and 6m (19.7 ft) long including the door.
Currently, I find the number of 21 CW steel studs to be quite high. Other drywall calculators suggest 7-10.
Item: Quantity
Construction board (2,000 x 600 x 12.5 mm) 21
CW steel stud (2,600 x 50 x 50 mm) 21
UW track profile (2,000 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 7
White acrylic sealant 300 ml (10 fl oz) 5
One-sided adhesive sealing tape 50 mm (2 inches), 30 m (98 ft) 1
Expansion plug K6/35 (35 mm, 50 pcs) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.9 mm, length: 25 mm, countersunk head, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Partition wall boards / insulation material (1,250 x 625 x 40 mm) 3
Joint filler (25 kg, light gray) 1
Drywall screws (diameter: 3.5 mm, length: 25 mm, fine thread, 1,000 pcs) 1
Door jamb bracket (50 x 130 x 135 mm, 4 pcs) 1
Lintel profile (1,600 x 50 x 40 mm) 1
Reinforcement profile UA (2,600 x 50 x 40 mm, steel) 2
Door frame (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left/right, plain white, wall thickness: 80 mm) 1
Interior door (860 x 1,985 mm, DIN hinge: left, plain white, honeycomb core) 1
I wouldn’t rely solely on a calculator; I’d simply start by sketching it out with pencil and paper. Depending on the width of your drywall panels (600 mm (24 inches) in your case), you will need a CW stud profile every 600 mm (24 inches) to attach them properly. Also, you might want to consider using taller drywall panels so you don’t have any joints reaching up to the ceiling. With 2 m (6 ft 7 in) tall panels, you’ll have to screw on an additional 0.6 m (2 ft) at either the top or bottom everywhere.
Manufacturers provide guidelines on how wall constructions should be designed depending on the structural load. For a wall height of 2.60m (8.5 feet) and a free span of 6m (19.7 feet), CW50 profiles, in my opinion, are too narrow. While the wall will hold, it might not be rigid enough and could behave like a membrane, showing deformation around the door and when the door is slammed. Alternatively, you can double-layer the drywall with two 12.5mm (0.5 inch) sheets, staggering the joints. You should use the single-man boards measuring 260x60cm (102x24 inches), installed vertically, and ensure that the boards rest fully on the framework along all edges. Avoid creating unsupported joints that are not backed by the frame. The basement must, of course, be completely dry (new construction basement) and show no condensation during summer. Standard gypsum plasterboards are very sensitive to moisture. If this cannot be guaranteed, gypsum fiber boards, such as those from Fermacell, are the better choice. However, they come in different sizes and are somewhat more difficult to work with.
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Hagiman200022 Mar 2016 10:41The wall length is not finalized yet, so the wall could be somewhat shorter. However, if 75mm or 100mm (3 inches or 4 inches) thickness is better, we can switch to that. The walls are mainly intended to divide the basement into three rooms.
I have also read that gypsum plasterboards (GKB) are very sensitive to moisture and can develop mold quickly. A new basement will definitely still contain some moisture. Although the completion is planned for summer, since it is a basement, this will probably not have much impact.
These single-man boards are a good idea. How does it actually work? A board is 600mm (24 inches) wide. If I start at the far left of the basement wall, do I place a CW stud after 600mm (24 inches), where the first board ends in the middle, and start the second board there, so that both boards are screwed into the same stud?
I have also read that gypsum plasterboards (GKB) are very sensitive to moisture and can develop mold quickly. A new basement will definitely still contain some moisture. Although the completion is planned for summer, since it is a basement, this will probably not have much impact.
These single-man boards are a good idea. How does it actually work? A board is 600mm (24 inches) wide. If I start at the far left of the basement wall, do I place a CW stud after 600mm (24 inches), where the first board ends in the middle, and start the second board there, so that both boards are screwed into the same stud?
I would never screw the panels vertically single-layered onto a vertical stud frame.
If you use OSB instead of gypsum board (drywall) as the first layer, you have the advantage that the joints don’t necessarily have to line up with a stud, since tongue and groove already provide stability.
I still have one question:
Which drywall calculator (never heard of such a thing before!) comes up with 7 studs for 6 meters (20 feet)? Forget that, especially if a door is going to be installed. 21 sounds more reasonable, but as mentioned above, I would draw it out and not fully rely on a calculator.
Otherwise, the shopping list sounds plausible, but I only glanced over it briefly.
I highly recommend the videos from Knauf on this topic. The two gentlemen are quite entertaining, similar to the Isover videos, if anyone is familiar with those.
If you use OSB instead of gypsum board (drywall) as the first layer, you have the advantage that the joints don’t necessarily have to line up with a stud, since tongue and groove already provide stability.
I still have one question:
Which drywall calculator (never heard of such a thing before!) comes up with 7 studs for 6 meters (20 feet)? Forget that, especially if a door is going to be installed. 21 sounds more reasonable, but as mentioned above, I would draw it out and not fully rely on a calculator.
Otherwise, the shopping list sounds plausible, but I only glanced over it briefly.
I highly recommend the videos from Knauf on this topic. The two gentlemen are quite entertaining, similar to the Isover videos, if anyone is familiar with those.
One00 schrieb:
If you use OSB instead of gypsum board as the first layer....you also have the advantage of being able to attach things to the wall without any concerns.Sent from my mobile device
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