ᐅ Determining the Bathroom Floor Construction – Trial Bore Completed
Created on: 5 Oct 2016 18:30
W
Werkheimer
Hello forum,
The bathroom on the first floor in our detached house built in 1990 is going to be renovated. We want to install a walk-in shower with a flush floor as much as possible.
Before starting, we wanted to find out whether this is feasible at all. For this purpose, I conducted a test drill and concluded the following layer structure:
I have the following questions:
Thanks in advance for your opinions and tips!
Werkheimer
The bathroom on the first floor in our detached house built in 1990 is going to be renovated. We want to install a walk-in shower with a flush floor as much as possible.
Before starting, we wanted to find out whether this is feasible at all. For this purpose, I conducted a test drill and concluded the following layer structure:
I have the following questions:
- Does the floor structure seem possible or correctly determined? The "nothing" layer is probably polystyrene or something similar.
- In which layer is the drain of the existing raised shower tray likely installed — in the "nothing" layer or the concrete below?
- For a complete bathroom renovation, should the entire floor structure be removed?
- Or should the floor be left as is, only breaking out the area where the future shower will be, and otherwise installing new tiles over the existing tiles?
- Is there anything (obvious) that speaks against installing a flush-level shower?
Thanks in advance for your opinions and tips!
Werkheimer
Okay, experience: apartment, built in 1993, steel shower tray on a frame over a raw subfloor. The opening was about 75x75 cm (30x30 inches).
This might not help you much, the next one could be different, and so on.
About 6 cm (2.5 inches) of insulation would be too much, here it was around 3-4 cm (1.2-1.6 inches).
This might not help you much, the next one could be different, and so on.
About 6 cm (2.5 inches) of insulation would be too much, here it was around 3-4 cm (1.2-1.6 inches).
Hello Werkheimer
You have a 60mm (2.4 inches) screed. Below that is insulation of 65mm (2.6 inches), probably Styrofoam.
You have a total build-up height of 125mm (4.9 inches) for the level-access shower. I would cut out the screed with an angle grinder. Then you get a shower tray with the necessary Styrofoam base.
Now comes the difficult part: the base must be cut precisely to height. You can’t just cut it with a saw. I was lucky that my sister owns a company that processes Styrofoam. They were able to cut the base to height using a stationary hot wire cutter. Just put it in and place the shower on top. Fits perfectly.
Steven
You have a 60mm (2.4 inches) screed. Below that is insulation of 65mm (2.6 inches), probably Styrofoam.
You have a total build-up height of 125mm (4.9 inches) for the level-access shower. I would cut out the screed with an angle grinder. Then you get a shower tray with the necessary Styrofoam base.
Now comes the difficult part: the base must be cut precisely to height. You can’t just cut it with a saw. I was lucky that my sister owns a company that processes Styrofoam. They were able to cut the base to height using a stationary hot wire cutter. Just put it in and place the shower on top. Fits perfectly.
Steven
Hello,
my experience (built in 1980):
There was no screed or insulation under my shower and bathtub. The steel tubs stood on steel legs and were built in on the sides. The drains ran beneath the tubs on the reinforced concrete slab with a slope toward the corner where the vertical drain pipe is located. In some cases, the supply lines were also routed beneath the tubs up to the base point in the wall, where they were connected to the fixtures.
I was advised against patching the screed, so the entire floor structure was removed. This also allowed the underfloor heating to be extended into the new walk-in shower. I had the new drain installed via core drilling into the basement below, as this was the easiest solution due to the limited build-up height, and it also ensures maintenance access. Unfortunately, the build-up above the reinforced concrete slab was only about 10 cm (4 inches) including insulation and tiles. This is actually a bit low for a floor structure with underfloor heating; at least a drain option with a very low build-up height would have been necessary.
my experience (built in 1980):
There was no screed or insulation under my shower and bathtub. The steel tubs stood on steel legs and were built in on the sides. The drains ran beneath the tubs on the reinforced concrete slab with a slope toward the corner where the vertical drain pipe is located. In some cases, the supply lines were also routed beneath the tubs up to the base point in the wall, where they were connected to the fixtures.
I was advised against patching the screed, so the entire floor structure was removed. This also allowed the underfloor heating to be extended into the new walk-in shower. I had the new drain installed via core drilling into the basement below, as this was the easiest solution due to the limited build-up height, and it also ensures maintenance access. Unfortunately, the build-up above the reinforced concrete slab was only about 10 cm (4 inches) including insulation and tiles. This is actually a bit low for a floor structure with underfloor heating; at least a drain option with a very low build-up height would have been necessary.
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