ᐅ Cutting Your Own Timber for the Roof Frame – Moisture Considerations – Scheduling
Created on: 15 Dec 2021 15:38
T
Thomas.W
Hello dear forum,
We are currently planning the construction of our house.
We are planning a solid masonry house with a pitched roof. All work will be subcontracted to individual trades.
Our plans are already quite advanced.
We have already contracted most of the companies and are basically just waiting for the completion of the new development area.
Originally, we wanted to start at the end of 2022, but due to the delayed start of the site infrastructure, we decided to begin in spring 2023 instead.
The construction company has scheduled our project as their first site once weather conditions allow.
Now to my main topic.
I have some questions regarding the roof structure. I have already tried to clear up my lack of knowledge by searching on Google, but I still don’t fully understand. I hope you can help me. Due to the sharply increased cost of timber, we want to fell our own wood. We have our own forest, and our carpenters with a sawmill are only 2 meters (6.5 feet) away from it.
I have already discussed this with them, and they said it would be sufficient if I cut the wood in winter 2022 and then bring it to them. The logs would then be stored outdoors until they process the wood.
If we start excavation at the beginning of March, we should be able to begin raising the structure around May.
My question is whether the timber will be sufficiently dry for that?
Or will it have dried enough by then?
The company has been around for a long time, and I haven’t heard anything negative regarding the quality.
Is this approach common in construction?
I would appreciate any help you can provide.
Thank you in advance.
We are currently planning the construction of our house.
We are planning a solid masonry house with a pitched roof. All work will be subcontracted to individual trades.
Our plans are already quite advanced.
We have already contracted most of the companies and are basically just waiting for the completion of the new development area.
Originally, we wanted to start at the end of 2022, but due to the delayed start of the site infrastructure, we decided to begin in spring 2023 instead.
The construction company has scheduled our project as their first site once weather conditions allow.
Now to my main topic.
I have some questions regarding the roof structure. I have already tried to clear up my lack of knowledge by searching on Google, but I still don’t fully understand. I hope you can help me. Due to the sharply increased cost of timber, we want to fell our own wood. We have our own forest, and our carpenters with a sawmill are only 2 meters (6.5 feet) away from it.
I have already discussed this with them, and they said it would be sufficient if I cut the wood in winter 2022 and then bring it to them. The logs would then be stored outdoors until they process the wood.
If we start excavation at the beginning of March, we should be able to begin raising the structure around May.
My question is whether the timber will be sufficiently dry for that?
Or will it have dried enough by then?
The company has been around for a long time, and I haven’t heard anything negative regarding the quality.
Is this approach common in construction?
I would appreciate any help you can provide.
Thank you in advance.
11ant schrieb:
Then you should probably stay completely away from the long timber world because it’s a completely different area in several dimensions (types, qualities, cross-sections, and so on). Firewood is not cut from prime timber. A roof frame is a spatial structure. Using engineered wood products in the purlins—which are parallel to the ridge—and solid-sawn timber in the rafters—which run perpendicular to the ridge and parallel to the gable—leads to an overall construction that is only partially stabilized against warping. The developments in timber engineering since the end of the "Kaiser Wilhelm" era did not come about by chance—not to mention that premium-quality prime timber is currently extremely rare and would be a first-class waste as retro-style roof beams. I was invited to give you more precise advice if you showed the respective house design—I won’t repeat that after missing it several times. The process—assuming that “annoying” was meant instead of “actually” before the spell check—has already been explained here: 1. that the wood to be processed next year was cut in 2018, 2. that boards were or will be sawed from it, 3. that engineered wood products are used in both dimensions—whether it actually makes sense to use them as rafters in beam cross-sections is, as said, not clear from the texts. Not to mention that today, properly matured wood suitable for construction rarely produces the necessary beams at all: the wood of your bold dreams would either be too warped before or after sawing for your intended purpose—and it would most likely not meet the dimensional and structural tolerances required, possibly to a statically relevant degree. All your naivety is fully explained by your admission that you have only dealt with wood for burning so far. If the planned mill shares your naivety, I unfortunately see no advantage here in the “combined role” of sawmill and processing facility.I don’t quite understand what you’re getting at. Just because I’m not dealing with the sawmill every week, I shouldn’t give it up? That’s why there are professionals who do this daily. Am I correct in understanding that the long timber supplier dries the whole logs for 3 years and only then the sawmill processes them? And did you mean cutting and then immediately sawing before drying for 3 years?
B
Benutzer20016 Dec 2021 22:00Thomas.W schrieb:
And did you mean hammer first and then saw immediately, followed by drying for three years?Then you won’t need to wait that long for the wood to dry sufficiently. Depending on the wood species and the type of cut (beams or boards, for example), three to twelve months may be enough.M
maulwurf7922 May 2022 16:42I sawed all the timber frames for my entire wooden house structure myself, including the roof truss, battens, and boards. That was approximately 33 solid cubic meters (1,165 cubic feet) of beams. I bought 95 slow-grown spruce logs, each 18 meters (59 feet) long, harvested from an elevation of about 500 meters (1,640 feet). I had them delivered to the log yard and removed the bark using a Schwarzwälder drawknife. This process took about a month. After that, I air-dried the logs outdoors for one year before sawing them. If you don’t remove the bark, the logs won’t dry properly, and dry rot will start to damage the wood.
M
maulwurf7922 May 2022 16:48If you want to know how something like this is done properly, then read the technical books by Fritz Kress. The man really knew his carpentry.
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