ᐅ Cutting an Expansion Gap in Laminate Flooring After Installation: Experiences
Created on: 7 Dec 2024 14:09
W
Walter32Hello everyone,
I hope I won’t be laughed at for my laminate flooring problem.
We moved into a new condominium in 2021 and installed new laminate flooring. Unfortunately, I made some mistakes out of ignorance and stress during the installation.
Previously, there was an old, inexpensive parquet floor that was slightly damaged. After consulting with the hardware store, we sanded it down, installed a 3mm (1/8 inch) underlay for impact sound insulation, and laid click-lock laminate flooring with a thickness of 1cm (0.4 inches).
Unfortunately, we installed the laminate too close to the wall without leaving an expansion gap. Now the question is whether I can cut this gap in afterwards. The issue is that in the hallway and parts of the living room, the floor creaks loudly and it’s clear the laminate is under tension. Additionally, I feel like the cavity underneath acts as a resonance chamber when my kids run around.
In the living room, I have the problem that I can’t reach the gap along a 1.80m (6 feet) stretch because there’s a very heavy aquarium in the way.
Would it help to cut the expansion gap on just one side at that spot?
In hindsight, I would have preferred to have the flooring installed professionally.
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Best of luck, Walter32
I hope I won’t be laughed at for my laminate flooring problem.
We moved into a new condominium in 2021 and installed new laminate flooring. Unfortunately, I made some mistakes out of ignorance and stress during the installation.
Previously, there was an old, inexpensive parquet floor that was slightly damaged. After consulting with the hardware store, we sanded it down, installed a 3mm (1/8 inch) underlay for impact sound insulation, and laid click-lock laminate flooring with a thickness of 1cm (0.4 inches).
Unfortunately, we installed the laminate too close to the wall without leaving an expansion gap. Now the question is whether I can cut this gap in afterwards. The issue is that in the hallway and parts of the living room, the floor creaks loudly and it’s clear the laminate is under tension. Additionally, I feel like the cavity underneath acts as a resonance chamber when my kids run around.
In the living room, I have the problem that I can’t reach the gap along a 1.80m (6 feet) stretch because there’s a very heavy aquarium in the way.
Would it help to cut the expansion gap on just one side at that spot?
In hindsight, I would have preferred to have the flooring installed professionally.
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Best of luck, Walter32
J
Jesse Custer7 Dec 2024 14:38Take a look at the FEIN Multimaster with an HSS saw blade set. This is basically the tool for your problem. Buy it, cut all the way around once, then sell it again...
In principle, it is possible to allow a laminate floor surface to have "room to move" on the opposite wall side as well. In this case, there is likely a heavy, immovable piece of furniture on one side of the room.
However, the basic requirement for this is the presence of a slip layer. This is usually achieved by the underlay PE (polyethylene) foil, which acts as a moisture barrier according to current standards. If a so-called "anti-squeak" layer is installed (often mistakenly referred to as a soundproofing or impact sound reduction layer), this can also work. The outcome depends on the friction factors above and below the slip layer (e.g., the PE foil).
For retroactively cutting perimeter gaps, professionals use a specialized groove-cutting machine, but the room corners must still be worked on manually with a chisel. Whether it is worth investing in such equipment is debatable. This groove-cutting technique, also known as shadow gap sawing, is frequently used by professionals but rarely by DIY enthusiasts more than once.
Therefore, it might be more practical to hire a flooring specialist for the job, especially since they can connect appropriate dust extraction systems as well.
Good luck and wise decision-making: KlaRa
However, the basic requirement for this is the presence of a slip layer. This is usually achieved by the underlay PE (polyethylene) foil, which acts as a moisture barrier according to current standards. If a so-called "anti-squeak" layer is installed (often mistakenly referred to as a soundproofing or impact sound reduction layer), this can also work. The outcome depends on the friction factors above and below the slip layer (e.g., the PE foil).
For retroactively cutting perimeter gaps, professionals use a specialized groove-cutting machine, but the room corners must still be worked on manually with a chisel. Whether it is worth investing in such equipment is debatable. This groove-cutting technique, also known as shadow gap sawing, is frequently used by professionals but rarely by DIY enthusiasts more than once.
Therefore, it might be more practical to hire a flooring specialist for the job, especially since they can connect appropriate dust extraction systems as well.
Good luck and wise decision-making: KlaRa
Hello everyone,
thank you @KlaRa for your detailed response and also thank you @Jesse Custer for naming the tools.
I’m glad there are still options to correct everything. In the next few days, I will decide whether to manage this myself with my father-in-law or to hire a company.
Thanks for your quick replies!
Good luck
thank you @KlaRa for your detailed response and also thank you @Jesse Custer for naming the tools.
I’m glad there are still options to correct everything. In the next few days, I will decide whether to manage this myself with my father-in-law or to hire a company.
Thanks for your quick replies!
Good luck
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