ᐅ Creating Storage Space Under Sloped Ceilings with KALLAX Shelving – How to Optimize?
Created on: 24 Jul 2016 19:07
S
Svenjo
Hello everyone,
I am currently planning to redesign a room with a sloped ceiling and want to create as much storage space as possible. I was thinking about using KALLAX shelves from IKEA because they seem flexible and easy to combine.
I’m mainly interested in how to cleverly adapt or optimally position KALLAX shelves under slanted ceilings to make the most of the available storage space—without making it impractical or visually unappealing.
Are there any proven methods you can recommend? For example, special modifications, combinations with drawers, or even custom DIY adjustments?
Also, I’d like to know the best ways to use the space behind and beneath the shelves when the slope is very shallow.
Looking forward to your ideas and experiences!
I am currently planning to redesign a room with a sloped ceiling and want to create as much storage space as possible. I was thinking about using KALLAX shelves from IKEA because they seem flexible and easy to combine.
I’m mainly interested in how to cleverly adapt or optimally position KALLAX shelves under slanted ceilings to make the most of the available storage space—without making it impractical or visually unappealing.
Are there any proven methods you can recommend? For example, special modifications, combinations with drawers, or even custom DIY adjustments?
Also, I’d like to know the best ways to use the space behind and beneath the shelves when the slope is very shallow.
Looking forward to your ideas and experiences!
pautanner schrieb:
If the slope is very shallow, just remove the back panel, then you can access the storage space behind more easily.That sounds interesting, thanks! Doesn’t removing the back panel reduce the shelf’s stability? I’m a bit concerned it might wobble or warp.
Trine schrieb:
You can also cut shelves to size and attach them to the side of the KALLAX unitsHow exactly can this be done? Are you trying to cover the slanted end with this? What tools and fasteners would work best for that?
I would appreciate it if someone could share a step-by-step idea or a simple building guide.
Hello Svenjo and everyone following this,
I would like to share some technical tips to truly maximize the use of KALLAX units under sloped ceilings.
1. Measuring: Be sure to use a spirit level and a tape measure, not only to capture the height but also the width and depth up to the slope accurately. The angle is often underestimated, which affects the usable space.
2. Modularity: KALLAX comes in fixed dimensions, so the challenge is cutting. It is advisable to remove the back panel and secure the shelving unit firmly to the wall— for example, with special angle brackets and screws.
3. Adjustments: Where the slope meets the shelf, cut plywood or MDF panels at the appropriate angle. You can seal these with silicone to keep out dust.
4. Stability: Do not remove too many load-bearing parts. The back panel often stabilizes the side panels. If it is removed, you need to reinforce the shelf with wooden battens or metal profiles.
5. Use of rear space: If the slope is very shallow, you can utilize the space behind the back panel with an open solution, such as folding or sliding doors, or even custom-made inserts that slide into place.
One more question for Svenjo: What is the exact slope you have? (Angle in degrees or the distance from the floor to the sloped ceiling in centimeters (inches)). The implementation strategy will vary significantly depending on the angle.
Best regards!
I would like to share some technical tips to truly maximize the use of KALLAX units under sloped ceilings.
1. Measuring: Be sure to use a spirit level and a tape measure, not only to capture the height but also the width and depth up to the slope accurately. The angle is often underestimated, which affects the usable space.
2. Modularity: KALLAX comes in fixed dimensions, so the challenge is cutting. It is advisable to remove the back panel and secure the shelving unit firmly to the wall— for example, with special angle brackets and screws.
3. Adjustments: Where the slope meets the shelf, cut plywood or MDF panels at the appropriate angle. You can seal these with silicone to keep out dust.
4. Stability: Do not remove too many load-bearing parts. The back panel often stabilizes the side panels. If it is removed, you need to reinforce the shelf with wooden battens or metal profiles.
5. Use of rear space: If the slope is very shallow, you can utilize the space behind the back panel with an open solution, such as folding or sliding doors, or even custom-made inserts that slide into place.
One more question for Svenjo: What is the exact slope you have? (Angle in degrees or the distance from the floor to the sloped ceiling in centimeters (inches)). The implementation strategy will vary significantly depending on the angle.
Best regards!
PIN66 schrieb:
One more question from me to Svenjo: What is the exact slope you have? (Angle in degrees or the distance from floor to sloping roof).Good question. The slope goes from a ceiling height of 2.20 m (7 ft 3 in) on the highest side down to about 0.85 m (2 ft 9 in) at the lowest point. The angle is approximately 35 degrees.
The room is about 4 meters (13 ft) long, and the slope runs along this length, so the lowest area is quite long. I want to make the most of the storage space there.
Your tips on stability and precise measurements are very helpful. I’d prefer not to have a structure that’s too shaky. Thanks for that!
I don’t think placing KALLAX shelves under a 35-degree slope is ideal if you use the shelf without modifications.
These reinforcements are mandatory, not just optional. Otherwise, the shelf could become unstable from weight or even just being bumped and might fall over in the worst case.
It’s also worth considering using open-frame constructions instead, since KALLAX was originally designed as a freestanding shelf, not adapted for sloped ceilings. Rigid installation with custom cuts and fixed panels is necessary.
I also doubt that simple wooden strips are sufficient—metal brackets or even a substructure tailored to the slope are better.
So anyone wanting something permanently load-bearing should consider custom solutions rather than just “shoving KALLAX under the slope.”
PIN66 schrieb:
If that support is removed, you need to reinforce the shelf with wooden strips or metal profiles.
These reinforcements are mandatory, not just optional. Otherwise, the shelf could become unstable from weight or even just being bumped and might fall over in the worst case.
It’s also worth considering using open-frame constructions instead, since KALLAX was originally designed as a freestanding shelf, not adapted for sloped ceilings. Rigid installation with custom cuts and fixed panels is necessary.
I also doubt that simple wooden strips are sufficient—metal brackets or even a substructure tailored to the slope are better.
So anyone wanting something permanently load-bearing should consider custom solutions rather than just “shoving KALLAX under the slope.”
A small tip from my side: If you use KALLAX shelves on a sloped ceiling, also pay attention to how you use the shelves.
For items you don’t need very often, you can place compartments behind the low slope, perhaps with boxes.
For frequently used things, it’s better to place them higher up and more accessible.
This way, everything stays practical and you don’t have to bend down or squeeze in. 😉
For items you don’t need very often, you can place compartments behind the low slope, perhaps with boxes.
For frequently used things, it’s better to place them higher up and more accessible.
This way, everything stays practical and you don’t have to bend down or squeeze in. 😉
Quite pragmatically: If the slope is very shallow, place progressively smaller KALLAX modules side by side and secure them to the wall with brackets. This way, you avoid gaps and ensure the structure is stable.
Cutting is possible, but usually too time-consuming and affects the appearance.
Add crates and boxes, and the whole setup becomes really flexible.
Cutting is possible, but usually too time-consuming and affects the appearance.
Add crates and boxes, and the whole setup becomes really flexible.
Similar topics