ᐅ Converting or disconnecting towel warmers to electric operation

Created on: 12 Dec 2021 17:01
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Pamiko
Hello,
after living in our newly built house for some time, I am currently looking into the heating system.
We have, among other things, a towel radiator with a central connection that is also connected to the underfloor heating. I now know that this setup is not ideal.
What has prompted me to take action soon is the fact that the water in the tubes of the radiator manifold is quite yellow to brownish, which I attribute to rust coming from the towel radiator.

The question now is what to do?
Two options come to mind:
- Convert to electric heating if possible. I have a power outlet right next to the towel radiator. Is this possible with any towel radiator? I don’t know which model or manufacturer is installed. Is this something a layperson can manage? I have no knowledge in this area.
So either an electric heating element or a completely new towel radiator.
- Disconnect the towel radiator so it no longer runs through the underfloor heating and becomes just "decorative." What do I need to do for that? Just tighten the connection with pliers?

What do you think?
G
Gerddieter
14 Dec 2021 22:53
Pamiko schrieb:

Hello,
after living in our newly built house for some time now, I’m currently looking into the heating system.
We have, among other things, a towel radiator (towel radiator) with a central connection that also runs on the underfloor heating. I now realize that this is not ideal.

What do you think?


Hello, maybe a bit off-topic but a question: Why is it not ideal?

The background is that I am currently persuading the general contractor to install a towel radiator WITH connection to the underfloor heating. He thinks it’s nonsense, that electric heating is enough. I believe that with the underfloor heating connection, the towel radiator is always a bit (lukewarm) and therefore properly dries the towels...

Best regards
GD
A
Alessandro
15 Dec 2021 08:29
1. The heating water causes the high-temperature heat exchanger (HTHX) to corrode, and the particles are harmful to the heat pump. Therefore, it is important to ensure that the HTHX is made of stainless steel.

2. It is often mentioned that an HTHX with a very short pipe length creates a hydraulic short circuit, which results in a reduced temperature difference and causes the heat pump to shut down more quickly.
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netuser
15 Dec 2021 14:26
Gerddieter schrieb:

I think with a connection to the underfloor heating, the towel radiator always stays a bit lukewarm and thus properly dries the towels...
Best regards
GD

Adding to Alessandro’s explanation, here is my counter-question. Is it really the case that the radiator is lukewarm and the towels dry properly?
At about 30°C (86°F) supply temperature, I somewhat doubt that 🙂
M
motorradsilke
15 Dec 2021 15:02
netuser schrieb:

Adding to Alessandro’s explanation, here’s a counter-question. Is it really the case that the heating is only lukewarm and the towels dry properly?
With about 30°C (86°F) supply temperature, I doubt that very much 🙂

In our case, it is like that. A 30°C (86°F) supply temperature also results in 30°C (86°F) at the towel warmer, which feels lukewarm.
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Alessandro
15 Dec 2021 16:20
Yes, it’s similar for me. On top of that, my temperature differential of 5°C (9°F) is actually very good and far from a hydraulic short circuit...
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motorradsilke
15 Dec 2021 16:34
Alessandro schrieb:

Yes, it’s similar for me. Besides, the temperature difference of 5K (9°F) is actually very good and far from hydraulic short-circuiting...

Off-topic: How do you read or calculate the temperature difference? Or where do I find the return temperature?

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