ᐅ Controlled residential ventilation: Is an air gap under the doors necessary?
Created on: 3 Mar 2016 13:57
W
WildThing
Hello everyone,
we are building with a central controlled ventilation system for the living spaces. I have heard several times that the interior doors need to be trimmed by about 1 cm (0.4 inches) after installation to allow sufficient air circulation.
Is this true? And if the doors are trimmed, the bottom edge will be “open,” without any coating or edge banding. Is that not a problem?
How is it handled in your experience?
we are building with a central controlled ventilation system for the living spaces. I have heard several times that the interior doors need to be trimmed by about 1 cm (0.4 inches) after installation to allow sufficient air circulation.
Is this true? And if the doors are trimmed, the bottom edge will be “open,” without any coating or edge banding. Is that not a problem?
How is it handled in your experience?
By the way, I have now spoken with our heating engineer. He said that apart from the "normal" air gap under the door, no special ventilation slots or gaps are necessary because of the mechanical ventilation system.
So, we will try it like this for now and, in the worst case, have the doors trimmed at the bottom if needed. Since you don’t keep all the doors closed all day anyway, air exchange should be sufficiently ensured this way.
So, we will try it like this for now and, in the worst case, have the doors trimmed at the bottom if needed. Since you don’t keep all the doors closed all day anyway, air exchange should be sufficiently ensured this way.
S
Sebastian7923 Mar 2016 09:36It is always a question of how competent such a heating engineer is – how they calculated everything for your house.
Yes, that is certainly the question. But I’m not keen on recalculating everything myself endlessly; I would expect the installer to know what they are selling and installing for us.
The ventilation system was calculated by the manufacturer, including the airflow rates, so they should be correct as is.
The ventilation system was calculated by the manufacturer, including the airflow rates, so they should be correct as is.
S
Sebastian7923 Mar 2016 09:40However, it is important to consider the assumptions on which the airflow is based – I can understand the "don’t feel like it" attitude, but it won’t help if it ends up not working or working only moderately, causing noise, drafts, or similar issues.
Most likely, you will just get a shrug from the builder, and you will have to bear the consequences yourself – that’s unfortunately how the construction business works...
Most likely, you will just get a shrug from the builder, and you will have to bear the consequences yourself – that’s unfortunately how the construction business works...
Yes, you are somewhat right, but I assume it is designed to fit. I will check again at home to see exactly how the calculations were done, or if there are any assumptions included. Usually, such calculations have safety margins built in.
Have you recalculated and reviewed everything on your side? What measures are you taking for the doors?
Have you recalculated and reviewed everything on your side? What measures are you taking for the doors?
S
Sebastian7923 Mar 2016 09:47Sebastian79 schrieb:
We will slightly adjust the door frame forwards or backwards so that the shadow gap becomes a bit larger. It will only be sealed with foam in specific spots, ensuring there is an airflow opening between the door and the wall.
Advantage: no light, no sound – and definitely no large gap between the door leaf and the floor, which in my opinion is unacceptable...We will do it this way – it works for us because I had already coordinated this with the ventilation specialist.
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