ᐅ Compressible foam tape between cladding and window with an air gap
Created on: 4 Oct 2018 10:25
C
Celerdain
Hello,
my windows are currently being installed (new build) and I noticed that the compressible sealing tapes between the window frame and the external masonry have gaps of about 2mm (0.08 inches) in some places. So the sealing tape is not properly compressed.
I talked to the window installer about this, and he said that the compressible sealing tapes are only meant for temporary sealing during the construction phase, and that the joint must be sealed later. According to him, only the sealant provides a proper waterproof barrier against driving rain.
He also said that the compressible tapes will break down after a few years.
However, if I want, they could install a different tape from the outside afterwards (compressible sealing tape in sausage shape or something like that).
This is actually completely the opposite of what I have read about window sealing.
What do you think? Do you have any arguments based on recognized industry standards that I could use? I was thinking of suggesting that he remove the frames and use a thicker compressible sealing tape to ensure a proper seal.
Thanks
my windows are currently being installed (new build) and I noticed that the compressible sealing tapes between the window frame and the external masonry have gaps of about 2mm (0.08 inches) in some places. So the sealing tape is not properly compressed.
I talked to the window installer about this, and he said that the compressible sealing tapes are only meant for temporary sealing during the construction phase, and that the joint must be sealed later. According to him, only the sealant provides a proper waterproof barrier against driving rain.
He also said that the compressible tapes will break down after a few years.
However, if I want, they could install a different tape from the outside afterwards (compressible sealing tape in sausage shape or something like that).
This is actually completely the opposite of what I have read about window sealing.
What do you think? Do you have any arguments based on recognized industry standards that I could use? I was thinking of suggesting that he remove the frames and use a thicker compressible sealing tape to ensure a proper seal.
Thanks
As a non-expert, I’m starting to get a bit confused. However, I would tentatively say that points 1-3 are not acceptable.
1) To my knowledge, there should be a profile here, but I have never seen one this size before (I am familiar with a build-up height of 3cm (1.2 inches)). At first glance, it looks like the floor builder mismeasured. Even if an exterior window sill with a steep slope is installed, what happens on the inside? Is he planning to nail a plank in front of it?
2) No, this is no longer airtight. This is simply poor workmanship!
3) As I suspected in my last post, the floor builder was either unwilling or didn’t know what to do. Normally, the screws would be positioned roughly in the center of the profile and covered with a cap. Here, he couldn’t screw in the middle because of the air layer, so he would have needed some sort of anchor. In that case, he also shouldn’t have perforated the membrane...
PS: Depending on the scope of the project, I would recommend considering consulting an expert.
1) To my knowledge, there should be a profile here, but I have never seen one this size before (I am familiar with a build-up height of 3cm (1.2 inches)). At first glance, it looks like the floor builder mismeasured. Even if an exterior window sill with a steep slope is installed, what happens on the inside? Is he planning to nail a plank in front of it?
2) No, this is no longer airtight. This is simply poor workmanship!
3) As I suspected in my last post, the floor builder was either unwilling or didn’t know what to do. Normally, the screws would be positioned roughly in the center of the profile and covered with a cap. Here, he couldn’t screw in the middle because of the air layer, so he would have needed some sort of anchor. In that case, he also shouldn’t have perforated the membrane...
PS: Depending on the scope of the project, I would recommend considering consulting an expert.
Hey,
we also have a timber house, and for us it definitely looked different.
For the window with the gap underneath, is there only adhesive?
Our windows all rested directly on the wooden frame; nothing was left hanging in the air. I also doubt that this is correct.
For the roller shutter box, we also have just drywall (gypsum board) above it, which according to the window installer is so it can be accessed more easily in the worst case.
I don’t know if you’re building with a general contractor or managing individual contracts yourself, but this really calls for a serious discussion :/
we also have a timber house, and for us it definitely looked different.
For the window with the gap underneath, is there only adhesive?
Our windows all rested directly on the wooden frame; nothing was left hanging in the air. I also doubt that this is correct.
For the roller shutter box, we also have just drywall (gypsum board) above it, which according to the window installer is so it can be accessed more easily in the worst case.
I don’t know if you’re building with a general contractor or managing individual contracts yourself, but this really calls for a serious discussion :/
In addition to @Dr Hix:
The approximately 10cm (4 inches) gap under the window can remain as it is; it lets more light into the house, nicely diffused, so it doesn’t cause glare. In winter, you can even see the frost crystals on the interior window sill, which helps you know when it’s time to put on your warm jacket.
Honestly, anyone who installs something like that and claims it’s necessary should be reprimanded with their double-layer compressible tape, and the window that is too short should be pulled over their head. Someone else should then properly install a window that is 10cm (4 inches) higher, with the window sill connection profile for both interior and exterior sills flush with the bottom of the wall opening (or with a maximum 15mm (0.6 inches) gap), using the specified anchors and without penetrating the sealing.
Regarding the roller shutter box: It matches the quality of the other work—it is either too thick or installed incorrectly (not clearly visible). Any overhang seen there is a matter of design, as long as it is technically clean.
The approximately 10cm (4 inches) gap under the window can remain as it is; it lets more light into the house, nicely diffused, so it doesn’t cause glare. In winter, you can even see the frost crystals on the interior window sill, which helps you know when it’s time to put on your warm jacket.
Honestly, anyone who installs something like that and claims it’s necessary should be reprimanded with their double-layer compressible tape, and the window that is too short should be pulled over their head. Someone else should then properly install a window that is 10cm (4 inches) higher, with the window sill connection profile for both interior and exterior sills flush with the bottom of the wall opening (or with a maximum 15mm (0.6 inches) gap), using the specified anchors and without penetrating the sealing.
Regarding the roller shutter box: It matches the quality of the other work—it is either too thick or installed incorrectly (not clearly visible). Any overhang seen there is a matter of design, as long as it is technically clean.
As an addition: Are all the windows this short at the bottom, or just that one? If all of them are too short, it should be checked whether the installed sill height is possibly too low, or if the window manufacturer delivered incorrectly. Even if you fix it by building up under the window afterward, the windowsill will sit higher than the other windows in the house—unless all are too short.
The outer glazing seal was not properly installed at the factory. The seal can still be corrected. Remove the glazing beads, take out the glass, press the seal straight, and reinstall. For small windows, this is about 10 minutes of work for someone experienced. It’s not critical, as water entering this area from the outside will be drained away through the drainage slots. However, it is far from ideal.
The outer glazing seal was not properly installed at the factory. The seal can still be corrected. Remove the glazing beads, take out the glass, press the seal straight, and reinstall. For small windows, this is about 10 minutes of work for someone experienced. It’s not critical, as water entering this area from the outside will be drained away through the drainage slots. However, it is far from ideal.
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