ᐅ Ceiling between the ground floor and first floor has sagged / leveling needed
Created on: 24 Jun 2019 16:40
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xkeeper84
Hello dear forum,
My wife and I have bought a semi-detached house built in 1929. I have removed a lot so far and found that the floor on the first floor (1st floor) is about 4 cm (1.5 inches) lower at its lowest point. The ceiling is made of wood.
Currently, there are still chipboards on the floor.
Now I want to level the floor in order to lay tiles or parquet afterwards.
At the moment, I am unsure about the best way to approach this.
One option I am considering is filling the floor with leveling compound. The disadvantages are the added weight, the large amount of leveling compound required which is quite expensive, and the relatively high brittleness.
Another option would be to remove the chipboards, apply a leveling fill, and then install dry screed panels. The downside here is the slightly higher floor buildup in an already low room. Also, I am not yet sure how load-bearing the area between the wooden joists is.
Now to my question: Do you know of any other alternatives or how would you handle this?
Thank you in advance for your opinions and suggestions.
My wife and I have bought a semi-detached house built in 1929. I have removed a lot so far and found that the floor on the first floor (1st floor) is about 4 cm (1.5 inches) lower at its lowest point. The ceiling is made of wood.
Currently, there are still chipboards on the floor.
Now I want to level the floor in order to lay tiles or parquet afterwards.
At the moment, I am unsure about the best way to approach this.
One option I am considering is filling the floor with leveling compound. The disadvantages are the added weight, the large amount of leveling compound required which is quite expensive, and the relatively high brittleness.
Another option would be to remove the chipboards, apply a leveling fill, and then install dry screed panels. The downside here is the slightly higher floor buildup in an already low room. Also, I am not yet sure how load-bearing the area between the wooden joists is.
Now to my question: Do you know of any other alternatives or how would you handle this?
Thank you in advance for your opinions and suggestions.
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xkeeper8414 Jan 2020 19:45So, no loose fill between the joists and no dry screed panels either, but rather use OSB boards?
Unfortunately, I have a strict limitation on the construction height. The room was already quite low before, so I need to pay attention to the height.
Unfortunately, I have a strict limitation on the construction height. The room was already quite low before, so I need to pay attention to the height.
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xkeeper8422 Jan 2020 19:11Good evening,
sorry to bother you again.
I have now evened out the beams by attaching battens on the sides. As suggested, I plan to fill the gaps with insulation for soundproofing and lay OSB panels on the leveled beams.
For stiffness, I was considering 30 mm (1.2 inch) tongue-and-groove OSB panels. Is that too much? Would you recommend using two layers of 15 mm (0.6 inch) OSB panels offset from each other instead, or thinner OSB panels? Should the panels be installed as a floating floor or screwed to the battens?
Another question: One room is going to be a bathroom where large tiles will be installed. Should I skip the OSB panels there and use drywall underlayment (dry screed) instead, or combine drywall underlayment on top of OSB, or are 30 mm (1.2 inch) OSB panels stiff enough to prevent cracks?
The joist spacing is about 60 cm (24 inches). Attaching the leveling battens has naturally reduced the spacing. Despite that, I’m still unsure as everyone seems to recommend something different. I plan to use flexible tile adhesive and a reinforcing mesh for the tiles. But is that enough?
sorry to bother you again.
I have now evened out the beams by attaching battens on the sides. As suggested, I plan to fill the gaps with insulation for soundproofing and lay OSB panels on the leveled beams.
For stiffness, I was considering 30 mm (1.2 inch) tongue-and-groove OSB panels. Is that too much? Would you recommend using two layers of 15 mm (0.6 inch) OSB panels offset from each other instead, or thinner OSB panels? Should the panels be installed as a floating floor or screwed to the battens?
Another question: One room is going to be a bathroom where large tiles will be installed. Should I skip the OSB panels there and use drywall underlayment (dry screed) instead, or combine drywall underlayment on top of OSB, or are 30 mm (1.2 inch) OSB panels stiff enough to prevent cracks?
The joist spacing is about 60 cm (24 inches). Attaching the leveling battens has naturally reduced the spacing. Despite that, I’m still unsure as everyone seems to recommend something different. I plan to use flexible tile adhesive and a reinforcing mesh for the tiles. But is that enough?
Vicky Pedia22 Jan 2020 19:16Use OSB boards; using dry screed with a span of 60 cm (24 inches) will lead to problems. Otherwise, if everything is exposed, check to find out what the cause is. It could also be rotting beam ends, mold, pests, or similar issues.
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