Hello dear forum,
We recently bought a (still quite) nice house, and as is often the case, once the initial excitement after signing the contract has settled, you start noticing a few defects here and there.
The windows in the bedrooms and children's rooms face the weather side (full sun all day, often windy). During the viewing, we already noticed the wood looked very dry, and there were some areas where the paint was peeling. The seller promised to take care of this (including a full repainting of the facade, as he owns a painting company). However, after the work was done, we realized he just painted over it. Below the surface, the paint is peeling again, and the wood between the seals doesn’t look very good anymore.
Our relatively generous budget has quickly shrunk due to various renovation works (bathroom, wallpaper in a smoking household, kitchen) and many unexpected issues. That’s why we are now looking for a way to refresh the windows for a few more years. Unfortunately, these are not standard windows but an expensive and complex batten dormer.
Attached are two pictures of the two worst spots. Is it still possible to make the windows good for a few more years, and what would be the best approach? They are still sealed well and close properly.
Regards
We recently bought a (still quite) nice house, and as is often the case, once the initial excitement after signing the contract has settled, you start noticing a few defects here and there.
The windows in the bedrooms and children's rooms face the weather side (full sun all day, often windy). During the viewing, we already noticed the wood looked very dry, and there were some areas where the paint was peeling. The seller promised to take care of this (including a full repainting of the facade, as he owns a painting company). However, after the work was done, we realized he just painted over it. Below the surface, the paint is peeling again, and the wood between the seals doesn’t look very good anymore.
Our relatively generous budget has quickly shrunk due to various renovation works (bathroom, wallpaper in a smoking household, kitchen) and many unexpected issues. That’s why we are now looking for a way to refresh the windows for a few more years. Unfortunately, these are not standard windows but an expensive and complex batten dormer.
Attached are two pictures of the two worst spots. Is it still possible to make the windows good for a few more years, and what would be the best approach? They are still sealed well and close properly.
Regards
Well, what counts as peanuts? If I calculate 200 EUR per window (which seems to be common, according to some forum reports), I quickly end up with a considerable amount. I tried MyHammer once, but I didn’t even think about it. Let’s see if anyone responds. So far, nothing, but it’s only been 12 hours. Thanks for the tip.
Question: do you want a clear varnish or colored? If you want clear, then sand and oil the wood instead of varnishing. That’s much easier—use a good varnish oil like Epifanes. You can look it up. Alternatively, you can soak the wood with Owatrol D1 until it no longer absorbs any more. Let the last coat dry well; it gives a silky gloss and is simple to apply. A true clear varnish coat, however, is more of a big production but looks beautiful.
If colored, choose a matte finish, not high gloss. High gloss shows every imperfection and is tricky to work with. Matte is easier. Buy a good long-oil alkyd varnish—not acrylic. Alkyds dry slower, level out better, don’t harden as much, are more elastic, and accommodate wood movement well. Thinned in the first coat, they penetrate deeply into raw wood and bond very strongly. Sto makes good window varnishes, Sikkens does as well. Brillux is also an option. And get yourself a proper brush—it can easily cost $7. Put some effort into it, tackle the challenge. Karsten
If colored, choose a matte finish, not high gloss. High gloss shows every imperfection and is tricky to work with. Matte is easier. Buy a good long-oil alkyd varnish—not acrylic. Alkyds dry slower, level out better, don’t harden as much, are more elastic, and accommodate wood movement well. Thinned in the first coat, they penetrate deeply into raw wood and bond very strongly. Sto makes good window varnishes, Sikkens does as well. Brillux is also an option. And get yourself a proper brush—it can easily cost $7. Put some effort into it, tackle the challenge. Karsten
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