ᐅ Can you glue drywall directly onto concrete?

There are also gypsum fiber composite boards, such as Fermacell or Rigidur. These have a layer of polystyrene on top of the gypsum fiber board. I don’t think they are inexpensive, though. However, they can also be glued. We glued 4cm (1.6 inches) of extruded polystyrene insulation to the concrete walls, which will then be plastered. Electrical installations can be accommodated behind this layer. However, we also have perimeter insulation in addition.

My experience with gluing drywall panels is positive. Provided the work is done carefully, it results in a top-quality wall. Of course, filling and sanding are absolutely essential.
The insulation effect is minimal. The advice to increase the perimeter insulation from the start is definitely correct. You can't really change that afterward. And the extra material cost is negligible. The labor is going to be needed anyway.
Since the planning is still ongoing: negotiate this right from the beginning.

dohuli schrieb:
Here is perhaps a more convincing argument. Each adhesive spot bridges the air layer. Since these adhesive spots cover a significant area, they further reduce the already limited insulating effect.
If the house is still in the planning stage, it’s better to install sufficient external insulation.
If drywall is absolutely necessary, I would still recommend using a framework with profiles, as this compensates for any unevenness. I think it will be very difficult to finish the joints properly without having to rely heavily on filling compounds.
If you’re seeking advice here, please also consider these arguments and think it over. We just want to help.

The point about the adhesive spots sounds plausible. The question is whether there might be condensation problems, not how effective the insulation is.
I have previously covered a room with gypsum boards, which definitely made it warmer, but the room was on the ground floor and built with a porotherm brick.
In the new house, I am talking about a poured concrete basement with external styrofoam insulation.

Try searching for a U-value calculator on Google and enter your data on a relevant website. You generally should not have any condensation problems if the insulation is properly installed on the outside. However, if there are thermal bridges due to poor workmanship, issues can definitely arise. Since you have an air gap behind the drywall panels, you might not immediately notice the problem.

I am not a civil engineer or building physicist, so this is just my opinion based on a layperson’s understanding. If I am mistaken, I kindly ask the “real” experts to correct me.

roki500 schrieb:
Even a vacuum flask works with a minimal air layer. [...] but you didn’t provide any arguments, except that silly comment.
If you really do management consulting and tell your clients things without proper arguments

Why management consultants are believed even when they are blonde, I unfortunately cannot reveal – otherwise I would be excluded from the guild.
I did provide you with solid arguments. From them, you should have been able to see that the air layer in the window glazing is by no means minimal, just as it is not minimal in a vacuum flask: both are several times thicker than the membranes enclosing them. Your "air layer" is very thin and will, of course, also contain moisture (like older insulated glazing units in windows) and therefore will condense. Incidentally, I did not like post #5 by @garfunkel without reason: I fully share the view that the required level of skill is the same as with the plaster method. Once glued, it is no longer the same drywall system that even a novice can master immediately.

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World-e schrieb:
There are also gypsum fiber composite boards available, for example Fermacell or Rigidur. These have a layer of polystyrene foam on top of the gypsum fiber board. I don’t think they are cheap though. You can also glue them. We glued 4cm (1.6 inches) of extruded polystyrene foam insulation (XPS) to the concrete walls, which were then plastered. Electrical installations can also be installed behind that. However, we also have perimeter insulation in place as well.

11ant schrieb:
Why people believe management consultants even when they are blond, I’m not allowed to say – otherwise I’d be kicked out of the guild
I did give you valid arguments. From those, you could have understood that the air layer in window glazing is by no means minimal, just like in a thermos flask: both are many times thicker than the membranes enclosing them. Your "air layer" is very thin and will of course contain moisture (like old insulating window panes used to) and will therefore also condense. By the way, I didn’t like post #5 from @garfunkel for no reason: I fully agree with the opinion that the skill level required is the same as for the plaster option. Once glued, this is no longer the same drywall work that even amateur builders can easily handle.

Here is my problem:

The basement will be large, but I don’t have enough money to finish all rooms right away.
At first, I want to complete a bedroom, a bathroom, and a children’s room so I can move in and rent out my old apartment.
So I thought I would finish the other rooms like additional children’s rooms, a utility/technical room, children’s rooms later when I have the money.
If I move in and then—for example—in two years finish the next room, is it better to plaster again or use drywall then?
I have never plastered myself, but I can manage drywall.
What do you suggest?