ᐅ Burglary Protection – Upgrading Windows from Resistance Class WK2 to WK3 – Alarm System?
Created on: 13 Jan 2017 09:52
M
Mycraft
Hello dear forum community,
Due to recent events, I would like to ask how new and experienced homeowners think about burglary protection and what measures they have installed or are planning to install. Also, whether anyone has had good or bad experiences with certain products.
Now, regarding the current situation: last week, there was a break-in at our immediate neighbors’ houses and then at two houses behind us.
In one case, there was an attempt to lift the front door, but the triple locking mechanism held... then the intruder tried the terrace door (security level WK1), which gave way.
At the other house, an attempt was made at a small window behind the house (WK3), which also failed, and then at the terrace door (WK3). Here, the roller shutter was torn off and the triple glazing was smashed.
In summary, jewelry, electronics, and all small valuable items were stolen, as well as coats and similar items. Larger items were left behind, but everything was thoroughly searched and violently broken into.
The day before yesterday, another break-in occurred a few streets away… all around dusk, about 5-6 pm.
We have WK2 windows, and I will now upgrade them to WK3 (already ordered). But what about the glass? I won’t be able to replace all panes with laminated glass, it’s just not feasible. Has anyone had experience with films that are applied from the inside (300 mil)?
Besides that, we have video surveillance all around... We are now installing ten 20W LED floodlights around the house, which turn on when motion is detected and stay on for a while (directed away from the house).
Additionally, a siren will be installed on the roof, connected to the KNX alarm system, which will activate in case of glass breakage or unauthorized window opening. (I still have to buy the glass break detectors).
For the large windows, I have also ordered rod locks because the weak point is in the middle where there is no central bar.
Due to recent events, I would like to ask how new and experienced homeowners think about burglary protection and what measures they have installed or are planning to install. Also, whether anyone has had good or bad experiences with certain products.
Now, regarding the current situation: last week, there was a break-in at our immediate neighbors’ houses and then at two houses behind us.
In one case, there was an attempt to lift the front door, but the triple locking mechanism held... then the intruder tried the terrace door (security level WK1), which gave way.
At the other house, an attempt was made at a small window behind the house (WK3), which also failed, and then at the terrace door (WK3). Here, the roller shutter was torn off and the triple glazing was smashed.
In summary, jewelry, electronics, and all small valuable items were stolen, as well as coats and similar items. Larger items were left behind, but everything was thoroughly searched and violently broken into.
The day before yesterday, another break-in occurred a few streets away… all around dusk, about 5-6 pm.
We have WK2 windows, and I will now upgrade them to WK3 (already ordered). But what about the glass? I won’t be able to replace all panes with laminated glass, it’s just not feasible. Has anyone had experience with films that are applied from the inside (300 mil)?
Besides that, we have video surveillance all around... We are now installing ten 20W LED floodlights around the house, which turn on when motion is detected and stay on for a while (directed away from the house).
Additionally, a siren will be installed on the roof, connected to the KNX alarm system, which will activate in case of glass breakage or unauthorized window opening. (I still have to buy the glass break detectors).
For the large windows, I have also ordered rod locks because the weak point is in the middle where there is no central bar.
blockhauspower13 Jan 2017 17:38You surely don’t mean that seriously about using a jigsaw. Just try cutting a 20cm (8 inch) thick solid wood board with a jigsaw. But first, try it on aerated concrete for comparison. For that, use a handsaw.
As I said, I’m not trying to convince anyone, I just know that burglars couldn’t get in here despite having a hammer and crowbar.
As I said, I’m not trying to convince anyone, I just know that burglars couldn’t get in here despite having a hammer and crowbar.
Knallkörper schrieb:
Well. I don’t find that very convincing either. Especially coming from someone whose house you can easily retrofit with a side entrance door using a jigsaw. I’m just curious about this. Is it really that simple in a timber frame house? The exterior plaster is probably only a few millimeters thick, right? Can you just break through it in a spot where there is cavity insulation and no wooden beam, straight through to the insulation layer? And then it’s only two layers of drywall after that?
Edit: Blockhauspower does have a... log house...
I was referring to, for example, a prefab house...
K
Knallkörper13 Jan 2017 19:16blockhauspower schrieb:
Surely you don’t seriously mean using a jigsaw. You can try cutting a 20cm (8 inch) thick solid wood board with a jigsaw for comparison. But try aerated concrete first. For that, use a handsaw.
As I said, I’m not trying to convince anyone, I just know that burglars couldn’t get in here despite using hammers and crowbars.Well, burglars aren’t what they used to be either. I’ll wait a few more years for mold and rot to set in to cut by hand. Until then, I rely on cordless power tools.
We build enclosures for generators and other equipment for government facilities, with very high security standards, and we test them thoroughly. Our preferred tool: the cordless angle grinder. Hammers and crowbars are maybe still useful for junkies.
You really can’t fully protect yourself anyway. It’s enough to be “better” than the neighbor, as has been said.
Hello,
I haven’t read everything yet, but I’ll share an update from our side.
In our new build, which is still under construction, there was an attempted break-in on a Sunday. The door was scratched but they didn’t manage to get inside, thanks to the 7-point locking system and a drill and lock picking protection on the keyhole. Then they tried to force open the side window with a rod or something similar, but failed at the fittings. They also stole a 30cm (12 inch) rainwater downpipe. ^^
Two days later, there was an attempt to smash the window. We have P4A security glazing, which cost 2,500 euros (approx. $2,700) for the entire ground floor. Two panes of the triple glazing were broken, but they failed at the third pane. You can clearly see in one corner where they repeatedly struck the glass with a hammer or another tool.
Our house has withstood these attempts, so I can definitely recommend the reinforced glazing.
Still annoying, two times a €250 deductible (about $270) :-(
In general, besides the alarm system, we also have two cameras, but they are not installed yet.
I haven’t read everything yet, but I’ll share an update from our side.
In our new build, which is still under construction, there was an attempted break-in on a Sunday. The door was scratched but they didn’t manage to get inside, thanks to the 7-point locking system and a drill and lock picking protection on the keyhole. Then they tried to force open the side window with a rod or something similar, but failed at the fittings. They also stole a 30cm (12 inch) rainwater downpipe. ^^
Two days later, there was an attempt to smash the window. We have P4A security glazing, which cost 2,500 euros (approx. $2,700) for the entire ground floor. Two panes of the triple glazing were broken, but they failed at the third pane. You can clearly see in one corner where they repeatedly struck the glass with a hammer or another tool.
Our house has withstood these attempts, so I can definitely recommend the reinforced glazing.
Still annoying, two times a €250 deductible (about $270) :-(
In general, besides the alarm system, we also have two cameras, but they are not installed yet.
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