ᐅ Single-story house with a hip roof – is converting the attic worthwhile?
Created on: 22 Apr 2017 00:05
J
jawknee
Hello everyone,
I am currently looking for a plot of land and plan to build a small single-family house of about 120 sqm (1,292 sq ft), without a basement. I am thinking of a classic house with a pitched roof, including a utility room, kitchen, guest toilet, and living/dining area on the ground floor, and bedrooms, bathroom, and guest room/office upstairs.
Since I want to discuss specific details with builders or architects only once I have a plot as a basis, I cannot provide more detailed information at this stage. I hope this is sufficient for now.
I have now found a suitable plot (about 700 sqm (7,535 sq ft)), which will be developed next year, and according to the zoning plan, everything seemed fine. However, after asking the real estate agent for more information, it turned out there was a change to the development plan.
Previously, the following was allowed:
Ground floor + upper floor, pitched roof, 35–45 degrees, knee wall 80 cm (31 inches)
Now, only the following is permitted:
Ground floor + upper floor, hipped roof, 20–35 degrees, knee wall 80 cm (31 inches)
The floor area ratio (0.8) and site coverage ratio (0.4) have not changed.
According to the description and the agent’s statement, this would be a classic bungalow. Although I don’t completely rule it out, I am not a 100% fan of bungalows because, based on my preferences, I would like to have the bedroom and bathroom upstairs, and a bungalow also tends to use more of the plot area.
However, it seems that there are bungalows with usable attic space. My question is whether it is practical to manage about 120 sqm (1,292 sq ft) with a knee wall of 80 cm (31 inches) to fit a bathroom and bedroom in the roof space... and you would also need to accommodate a staircase. From a gut feeling, I find it hard to imagine, but maybe one of the experts here can share their assessment. It would also be interesting to know if it makes economic sense at all.
Thank you very much in advance.
I am currently looking for a plot of land and plan to build a small single-family house of about 120 sqm (1,292 sq ft), without a basement. I am thinking of a classic house with a pitched roof, including a utility room, kitchen, guest toilet, and living/dining area on the ground floor, and bedrooms, bathroom, and guest room/office upstairs.
Since I want to discuss specific details with builders or architects only once I have a plot as a basis, I cannot provide more detailed information at this stage. I hope this is sufficient for now.
I have now found a suitable plot (about 700 sqm (7,535 sq ft)), which will be developed next year, and according to the zoning plan, everything seemed fine. However, after asking the real estate agent for more information, it turned out there was a change to the development plan.
Previously, the following was allowed:
Ground floor + upper floor, pitched roof, 35–45 degrees, knee wall 80 cm (31 inches)
Now, only the following is permitted:
Ground floor + upper floor, hipped roof, 20–35 degrees, knee wall 80 cm (31 inches)
The floor area ratio (0.8) and site coverage ratio (0.4) have not changed.
According to the description and the agent’s statement, this would be a classic bungalow. Although I don’t completely rule it out, I am not a 100% fan of bungalows because, based on my preferences, I would like to have the bedroom and bathroom upstairs, and a bungalow also tends to use more of the plot area.
However, it seems that there are bungalows with usable attic space. My question is whether it is practical to manage about 120 sqm (1,292 sq ft) with a knee wall of 80 cm (31 inches) to fit a bathroom and bedroom in the roof space... and you would also need to accommodate a staircase. From a gut feeling, I find it hard to imagine, but maybe one of the experts here can share their assessment. It would also be interesting to know if it makes economic sense at all.
Thank you very much in advance.
11ant schrieb:
Another nonsense from zoning plans. The eave height requirement limits the building volume sufficiently. How far below the eave the ceiling is located inside the building is of no concern to the observer (or the neighbor) whatsoever.I realize I wasn’t clear. The restrictions on eave height and ridge height effectively make knee wall constructions and very steep roofs impossible. I don’t recall seeing the term “knee wall prohibition” in the plan, but that’s basically the result. It seems the council was also aiming for a certain northern basic aesthetic. Whether this is justified? I could live with a bit more flexibility here. K.
Nordlys schrieb:
I did not express myself clearly. The restrictions on eaves height and ridge height effectively make knee wall constructions and very steep roofs impossible.Exactly – and that alone is fully sufficient.
Nordlys schrieb:
I don’t remember the term knee wall ban in the plan, but that’s what it amounts to.Unfortunately, I have read this several times – in the worst case, “if structurally unavoidable, then a maximum of 30 cm (12 inches),” which is a joke; but regularly there are limits of 1.5 or 1 or, more rarely, 0.75 m (5 feet, 3 feet, or 2.5 feet) – mind you, combined with already restricted eaves heights, so this is disproportionately a "double" restriction.
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Nordlys schrieb:
We are building a bungalow with a hipped roof. The roof pitch is 35 degrees, and the base slab is 133 sqm (1430 sq ft), measuring 10 by 13.30 meters (33 by 44 feet). However, we are using 45-degree slopes for the hips. The roof is designed as a truss system with a raised tie beam. This creates a great opportunity to have about 50 sqm (540 sq ft) of usable space upstairs.
I like the idea, but I’m not clear on how this can be implemented energy-efficiently.
The attic is essentially an unheated space. How can the roof conversion be heated afterward if the plan is to use an air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating?
The roof is initially a cold roof. We have now insulated it between the rafters. We will not convert it into a living space but use it like a dry, frost-free cellar. However, if you decide to extend the heating, installing radiators would not be a problem. Since we have a gas boiler, that is also feasible in practice. There are also radiators available that work with heat pumps.
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