ᐅ Building with Aerated Concrete / Autoclaved Aerated Concrete (AAC) / Cellular Concrete
Created on: 2 Sep 2009 21:14
M
Moppi
Hello,..
I just found this forum through Google, and so far I like it a lot. So first of all, hello to everyone!!
Now to my question
I recently bought a garden plot. I have demolished the "shed" that was there. Now I am slowly moving towards building something new. For the base, I plan to pour a strip foundation 80 cm (31.5 inches) deep. On top of that, I want to pour a 15 cm (6 inches) slab.
The building will be 4.50 m (15 feet) wide and 8 m (26 feet) long. The height will be 3.80 m (12.5 feet). The living area on the ground floor will have a ceiling height of 2.20 m (7.2 feet), and the upper floor will be used as sleeping and storage space. It will have a flat roof.
I would like to build the whole thing with 17 cm (6.7 inches) Ytong blocks.
What do you think about this?
How does building with Ytong work? I have read that it is not really possible or allowed to insulate it well. I was thinking of applying plastic render on the outside. Would that be enough?
I would be very grateful if some of you could give me a few helpful tips!
Thank you very much..
Regards, Markus
I just found this forum through Google, and so far I like it a lot. So first of all, hello to everyone!!
Now to my question
I recently bought a garden plot. I have demolished the "shed" that was there. Now I am slowly moving towards building something new. For the base, I plan to pour a strip foundation 80 cm (31.5 inches) deep. On top of that, I want to pour a 15 cm (6 inches) slab.
The building will be 4.50 m (15 feet) wide and 8 m (26 feet) long. The height will be 3.80 m (12.5 feet). The living area on the ground floor will have a ceiling height of 2.20 m (7.2 feet), and the upper floor will be used as sleeping and storage space. It will have a flat roof.
I would like to build the whole thing with 17 cm (6.7 inches) Ytong blocks.
What do you think about this?
How does building with Ytong work? I have read that it is not really possible or allowed to insulate it well. I was thinking of applying plastic render on the outside. Would that be enough?
I would be very grateful if some of you could give me a few helpful tips!
Thank you very much..
Regards, Markus
Hello Moppi!!
What you say is also correct—that this product is easy to work with.
But I would personally increase the thickness (Ytong) and build this project to last forever.
You don’t need to worry about insulation. On the outside, you can add thermal insulation, and on the inside, either drywall (plasterboard) or just plastering, depending on the thermal conductivity (W/mK) you want.
A question: do you actually plan to install toilet, water pipes, etc.? You need to be careful with those because of the risk of freezing in winter.
Best regards
What you say is also correct—that this product is easy to work with.
But I would personally increase the thickness (Ytong) and build this project to last forever.
You don’t need to worry about insulation. On the outside, you can add thermal insulation, and on the inside, either drywall (plasterboard) or just plastering, depending on the thermal conductivity (W/mK) you want.
A question: do you actually plan to install toilet, water pipes, etc.? You need to be careful with those because of the risk of freezing in winter.
Best regards
Hi,
the water connection arrives via PE pipe at a depth of 80cm (31.5 inches). The water meter will be installed inside the house. I plan to run the pipe through the foundation ring. Heating and hot water are usually provided by a propane gas boiler, which is also my plan. I think I will keep the boiler running at around 10 degrees Celsius (50°F) during winter, mainly for the plants, paint, and especially to prevent the house from cooling down too much. I live only 5 minutes from the site, and my immediate neighbor lives there permanently. So, nothing should really go wrong. The installation will be done by another neighbor who holds a master craftsman certificate and is basically the "community plumber."
That means I can apply styrofoam insulation on the Ytong blocks, then a mesh with adhesive, and a synthetic render without worrying about mold damaging the blocks, right?
Best regards, Moppi
the water connection arrives via PE pipe at a depth of 80cm (31.5 inches). The water meter will be installed inside the house. I plan to run the pipe through the foundation ring. Heating and hot water are usually provided by a propane gas boiler, which is also my plan. I think I will keep the boiler running at around 10 degrees Celsius (50°F) during winter, mainly for the plants, paint, and especially to prevent the house from cooling down too much. I live only 5 minutes from the site, and my immediate neighbor lives there permanently. So, nothing should really go wrong. The installation will be done by another neighbor who holds a master craftsman certificate and is basically the "community plumber."
That means I can apply styrofoam insulation on the Ytong blocks, then a mesh with adhesive, and a synthetic render without worrying about mold damaging the blocks, right?
Best regards, Moppi
Hello Moppi!!
You can definitely install an expanded polystyrene (EPS) facade nowadays without any problem.
I specifically asked if you plan to include plumbing because if you take all of that into account beforehand and don’t skimp on the exterior shell or wall thickness, you can be sure that you will avoid many unpleasant issues and save on heating costs.
Best regards.
You can definitely install an expanded polystyrene (EPS) facade nowadays without any problem.
I specifically asked if you plan to include plumbing because if you take all of that into account beforehand and don’t skimp on the exterior shell or wall thickness, you can be sure that you will avoid many unpleasant issues and save on heating costs.
Best regards.
If the wall thickness is to be this thin and still provide decent insulation, you might consider a timber frame construction with cavity insulation. If it’s just for weekends, then a “American-style” building method would also be sufficient there.
For masonry, I would prefer calcium silicate bricks. They are not much more difficult to work with and offer somewhat better stability.
For masonry, I would prefer calcium silicate bricks. They are not much more difficult to work with and offer somewhat better stability.
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