ᐅ Building on a Tight Budget: Is It Possible?

Created on: 29 Dec 2020 21:11
S
SumsumBiene
Hello,

Actually, we have been looking for an existing property since last summer. According to our mortgage broker, we have a budget of around 300,000 (all-in), which a bank is likely to approve.
The market here in Schleswig-Holstein has also become very tight, and the houses on offer are often in need of renovation, so you easily exceed the budget (especially since many city dwellers laugh at our house prices and like to secure a holiday home here).
Now the question is whether it would be possible to build a house within our budget (assuming we can get a building plot). Our requirements are not very high; it doesn’t need to be a huge house. 120 square meters (1300 square feet) would be completely sufficient.
In a neighboring village, plots are currently being developed. The price isn’t fixed yet but is expected to be below 100 euros per square meter. The plots are about 700 square meters (7500 square feet) in size. Unfortunately, we have no experience with this topic at all, and I definitely don’t want to miscalculate.
We can only contribute limited personal labor. We are not unskilled, but both fully employed with a child, dog, and horse. What are your thoughts?
J
Joedreck
10 Apr 2021 07:54
It's true that needs vary and underfloor heating isn’t ideal for everyone. However, in my experience, it often comes down to old misconceptions like having cold feet or heat building up uncomfortably. With the proper settings, these issues don’t apply to modern underfloor heating systems. What is undeniable, though, is the inertia and the issue with stoves. When using a stove, certain factors need careful consideration. The inertia is something you can hardly avoid.
Z
Zaba12
10 Apr 2021 08:40
Joedreck schrieb:

It’s true that needs vary and underfloor heating isn’t ideal for everyone.
In my experience, though, it often comes down to old misconceptions like cold feet or heat building up. But with proper settings, modern underfloor heating doesn’t have these issues.
What is undeniable is the system’s inertia and the stove problem. With a stove, you have to consider certain factors. The inertia is practically unavoidable.

There is a lot of hearsay here, leading to misinformation. Underfloor heating, when operated with low supply temperatures and a narrow hysteresis, is definitely not noticeably warm to the touch. We maintained 22.5°C (72.5°F) all winter on the ground floor (without sunlight), and the tiled floor felt neutral. I’ve been running the underfloor heating for two months with a raised daily setpoint causing wider hysteresis, which does make the floor warm, that’s true. But as I said, that setting is incorrect because I consume photovoltaic electricity for this purpose. It’s only partly related to modern technology. Poorly insulated building envelopes require higher supply temperatures, which again makes the floor warm. But in most cases, heating systems are just poorly configured, and since the homeowner has no knowledge, the settings remain unchanged for years. Only in the second year did I reduce the supply temperature by 5°C (9°F) and properly adjust the system. One of my neighbors has done nothing after five years.

Regarding the stove, yes, we have a 7.2 kW stove and I have never had to ventilate while running it together with the underfloor heating. This might be due to the open-plan ground floor and open staircase, but I suspect the room air-independent two-flue chimneys vent most of the heat outside again. It’s not like in the past, because where air is drawn from the room, more heat can also be lost.

We run the stove continuously from 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. Maximum temperature reached was 26.8°C (80.2°F).

Anyone using ERR cannot optimize their heating and will naturally encounter problems with the stove because the heating circuits close. But that is a different topic and there is another thread dedicated to it.
N
Nordlys
10 Apr 2021 10:02
Zaba, what you are saying cannot be generalized:

1) I claim that the majority of people do not want to deal with a heating system technically. Neither do I. It should just work and be reliable. Otherwise, it would be the wrong choice for us.

2) The stove most people want is the Scandinavian stove. It heats. And heats well. That does not fit with the heat pump.
M
Myrna_Loy
10 Apr 2021 10:07
Nordlys schrieb:

Zaba, you can’t generalize what you’re saying:
1) I claim that most people do not want to deal with the technical aspects of a heating system. Neither do I. It should just work. Otherwise, it wouldn’t be the right choice for us.
2) The stove most people want is a Scandinavian stove. It heats very well. That doesn’t really fit with the heat pump system.

Otherwise, I might as well create a virtual fire instead of burning real wood just for the look.
Y
ypg
10 Apr 2021 10:41
Zaba12 schrieb:

One of my neighbors hasn’t done anything yet, even after five years.
Never change a running system 🙂
Z
Zaba12
10 Apr 2021 10:49
Nordlys schrieb:

Zaba, what you say cannot be generalized:
1) I claim that most people do not want to deal with the technical details of a heating system. Neither do I. It should just work well. Otherwise, it wouldn't be the right system for us.
2) The stove most people want is the Scandinavian stove. It heats—very effectively. That doesn’t fit with the air-to-water heat pump (AWHP).


Regarding point 1) I agree with you. People only start to care when the compressor fails after 10 years, and then they say heat pumps are useless because they didn’t understand the system. No heating technician actually adjusts the heating system. It is always set to the factory default settings, in the worst case combined with a domestic hot water buffer tank.

Believe me... the default settings including the temperature compensation curve (ERR) are really poor.

Regarding point 2) It only doesn’t work if you use ERR because the heating system isn’t optimized.

To clarify, everyone who uses ERR has set the heating curve too high. People, including myself until last autumn, think they can control room temperature by adjusting the thermostat between 18 and 30 degrees Celsius (64 and 86°F). This is absolutely wrong because, for example, if you set 24°C (75°F), the system still heats the water for the underfloor heating up to 36°C (97°F) as preset, which is why your feet feel warm.

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