ᐅ Building permit application submitted / unresolved technical details / looking forward to suggestions
Created on: 20 Feb 2015 18:13
L
Legurit
Hello everyone, our planner has now submitted the building permit application and asked us to consider a few things (on one hand, they want to start with the structural calculations, and on the other, to compile the documents for the tender).
17.5 cm (7 inches) sand-lime brick or aerated concrete: so far, we preferred sand-lime brick because of its thermal mass. We were told the cost is roughly similar. Aerated concrete offers about 25% better U-value (in our wall construction). Sand-lime brick, however, provides better thermal mass and sound insulation (though the latter is less important). Interior walls will be built with sand-lime brick. Can anyone strongly recommend one over the other? (cavity wall with insulation and facing brick)
Recessed spotlights or regular lamps: this might also be relevant for the structural load. I did a rough calculation – if we have to count €60 (euros) per spot, that could add up considerably. Some say spots are not ideal from a lighting perspective either. I’m leaning against them, my wife is in favor. Is this just a trend, or is it truly better than regular fixtures?
Tiles or other floor coverings: we have mostly tiled the ground floor. Now the question is what to choose for the upper floor – I would also lean towards tiles here. We had briefly considered cork – does anyone have experience with that?
Ventilation: it’s almost certain we will have a decentralized ventilation system with heat recovery—most likely cross-flow (no inverter - I know the pros and cons, but we would probably never feel comfortable with a central system). Does anyone have specific models to recommend or advise against based on whether they can sleep well with them or not? We have already visited five houses with central ventilation systems to “listen” and talk to the owners. Three of them have the system on the lowest setting or turned off because it bothers them (which kind of defeats the purpose). Am I allowed to mention companies here? I have read something about Blue Martin – they are expensive and supposedly very good – but it’s always hard for a layperson to tell if it’s just marketing.
Ground-source heat pump: is deep drilling better or are horizontal/spiral collectors preferable? Is it possible to cool with horizontal/spiral systems in summer as well?
Additional cost for engobed roof tiles: we need to decide on roof tiles, but the building supplier wouldn’t give us price details (they said prices would be sent directly to the builder). Can anyone roughly estimate the extra cost for engobed matte clay tiles compared to non-engobed matte clay tiles? Is it worth it or more about appearances during the first year?
Thanks for your opinions and best regards.
17.5 cm (7 inches) sand-lime brick or aerated concrete: so far, we preferred sand-lime brick because of its thermal mass. We were told the cost is roughly similar. Aerated concrete offers about 25% better U-value (in our wall construction). Sand-lime brick, however, provides better thermal mass and sound insulation (though the latter is less important). Interior walls will be built with sand-lime brick. Can anyone strongly recommend one over the other? (cavity wall with insulation and facing brick)
Recessed spotlights or regular lamps: this might also be relevant for the structural load. I did a rough calculation – if we have to count €60 (euros) per spot, that could add up considerably. Some say spots are not ideal from a lighting perspective either. I’m leaning against them, my wife is in favor. Is this just a trend, or is it truly better than regular fixtures?
Tiles or other floor coverings: we have mostly tiled the ground floor. Now the question is what to choose for the upper floor – I would also lean towards tiles here. We had briefly considered cork – does anyone have experience with that?
Ventilation: it’s almost certain we will have a decentralized ventilation system with heat recovery—most likely cross-flow (no inverter - I know the pros and cons, but we would probably never feel comfortable with a central system). Does anyone have specific models to recommend or advise against based on whether they can sleep well with them or not? We have already visited five houses with central ventilation systems to “listen” and talk to the owners. Three of them have the system on the lowest setting or turned off because it bothers them (which kind of defeats the purpose). Am I allowed to mention companies here? I have read something about Blue Martin – they are expensive and supposedly very good – but it’s always hard for a layperson to tell if it’s just marketing.
Ground-source heat pump: is deep drilling better or are horizontal/spiral collectors preferable? Is it possible to cool with horizontal/spiral systems in summer as well?
Additional cost for engobed roof tiles: we need to decide on roof tiles, but the building supplier wouldn’t give us price details (they said prices would be sent directly to the builder). Can anyone roughly estimate the extra cost for engobed matte clay tiles compared to non-engobed matte clay tiles? Is it worth it or more about appearances during the first year?
Thanks for your opinions and best regards.
You need to distinguish between general lighting, accent lighting, and task lighting.
Recessed downlights are often used in groups as general lighting, and individually as accent lighting. They are not suitable for task lighting.
For general lighting, you usually need about 2 fixtures per square meter (10.8 square feet), so you can calculate the total cost from that. We use downlights as general lighting only in the bathroom and bedroom, with halogen bulbs because LED has proven too expensive and ineffective as short-duration general lighting. The lights are typically turned on briefly once a week. Instead, we use the task and accent lighting in the bathroom, and bedside lamps in the bedroom, controlled by a switch.
In the kitchen and living areas, ceiling lights are rarely switched on. The kitchen is lit mainly by task lighting, and the living area by several accent lights. In the hallway, ceiling lighting is preferred.
You should consider how you generally use lighting and decide whether the cost of ceiling recessed downlights is worth it for you. Overall, you can spend quite a lot of money on them. I would rather recommend focusing on wall-mounted recessed lights: for example, they cannot be retrofitted easily for stair lighting.
Best regards,
Yvonne
Recessed downlights are often used in groups as general lighting, and individually as accent lighting. They are not suitable for task lighting.
For general lighting, you usually need about 2 fixtures per square meter (10.8 square feet), so you can calculate the total cost from that. We use downlights as general lighting only in the bathroom and bedroom, with halogen bulbs because LED has proven too expensive and ineffective as short-duration general lighting. The lights are typically turned on briefly once a week. Instead, we use the task and accent lighting in the bathroom, and bedside lamps in the bedroom, controlled by a switch.
In the kitchen and living areas, ceiling lights are rarely switched on. The kitchen is lit mainly by task lighting, and the living area by several accent lights. In the hallway, ceiling lighting is preferred.
You should consider how you generally use lighting and decide whether the cost of ceiling recessed downlights is worth it for you. Overall, you can spend quite a lot of money on them. I would rather recommend focusing on wall-mounted recessed lights: for example, they cannot be retrofitted easily for stair lighting.
Best regards,
Yvonne
EveundGerd22 Feb 2015 22:32K1300S schrieb:
Hm, ok, theoretically a new building *could* also just collapse ... Yes
ypg schrieb:
Spots are typically used clustered as main lighting and individually as accent lighting. They are not suitable as task lighting. I’m getting tired of reading this. The original poster talks about spots but probably means downlights, which are indeed very suitable and effective as a main light source—see also my earlier comments above. The rule of two fixtures per square meter doesn’t generally apply to downlights, but for true spotlights, it is appropriate.
We chose genuine LED downlights (not the retrofit type designed for halogen sockets) with an appropriate beam angle. With about three meters (10 feet) spacing in the ceiling, we still achieve broad and even illumination.
Good luck
K1300S
S
Sebastian7923 Feb 2015 07:44Could you share some pictures of your downlights? I’m a bit confused— to me, spots meant holes in the ceiling with lights inside. In your links, they are described as, for example, these fixtures hanging on wires from the ceiling.
So, are downlights the “holes in the ceiling”? I’d appreciate some clarification, as I’m still struggling a bit with lighting design. At first, we wanted many “spots” (meaning holes in the ceiling), but now I’m thinking of only having those in the hallway and bathrooms, and using indirect ceiling lighting (partially dropped ceiling), wall-mounted spotlights, and maybe just a few recessed spots in the living areas for accents…
So, are downlights the “holes in the ceiling”? I’d appreciate some clarification, as I’m still struggling a bit with lighting design. At first, we wanted many “spots” (meaning holes in the ceiling), but now I’m thinking of only having those in the hallway and bathrooms, and using indirect ceiling lighting (partially dropped ceiling), wall-mounted spotlights, and maybe just a few recessed spots in the living areas for accents…
It’s actually quite simple: downlights are just lights that shine DOWNwards – nothing more. Usually, they are installed either recessed into the ceiling or mounted on the surface (so-called surface-mounted downlights).
Spots are all lights that produce a focused beam of light (see Duden) – so this includes lights attached to wires, rods, or other fixtures – and they don’t necessarily shine downward (for example, floor spots). In everyday language, people often use the term “spots” incorrectly, because in most cases – based on my experience – they mean downlights when they say spots.
To be clear: unless there are special requirements, recessed ceiling lights will generally be used for broad, even illumination – not as spotlights. To make things more complicated, according to Duden, spots are also adjustable and tiltable – which is not the case with my downlights, since this wouldn’t make sense in that position.
You can find plenty of pictures on Google.
Good luck
K1300S
link removed by moderation
Spots are all lights that produce a focused beam of light (see Duden) – so this includes lights attached to wires, rods, or other fixtures – and they don’t necessarily shine downward (for example, floor spots). In everyday language, people often use the term “spots” incorrectly, because in most cases – based on my experience – they mean downlights when they say spots.
To be clear: unless there are special requirements, recessed ceiling lights will generally be used for broad, even illumination – not as spotlights. To make things more complicated, according to Duden, spots are also adjustable and tiltable – which is not the case with my downlights, since this wouldn’t make sense in that position.
You can find plenty of pictures on Google.
Good luck
K1300S
link removed by moderation
Similar topics