ᐅ Building a Garage Yourself – Materials and Cost List, Does This Look Correct?
Created on: 14 Mar 2021 14:15
R
Reini1234
Hello everyone,
Originally, we planned to build a carport, but the idea of constructing a garage ourselves never completely disappeared. We have a building permit / planning permission, but it was originally issued for a timber frame garage. Accordingly, the structural calculations are available for that.
To make a final decision, I roughly compiled a list of materials and prices to estimate the costs. A master mason friend is available to help. Most prices were based on online listings or existing quotes from the current building. Only for the garage door do we have concrete offers.
What do you think? Is something major missing or are our prices completely off?
Garage made of 24 cm (9.5 inches) Ytong blocks, 7.00 x 6.50 m (23 x 21 feet), shed roof with 40 cm (16 inches) sandwich panels, sectional door, floor slab existing, no earthworks necessary:
24 cm (9.5 inches) Ytong blocks: 2,000 EUR
Adhesive, 15 bags: 240 EUR
Ring beam with reinforcement: 2,000 EUR (this is where I’m most uncertain)
Roof rafters 8 x 20 cm (3 x 8 inches), 1 m (3 ft) spacing: 500 EUR
Sandwich panels with 40 cm (16 inches) insulation: 1,500 EUR (possibly extra costs for higher insulation)
Sectional door including installation: 3,200 EUR (promotional door 2,500 EUR)
Gutter sheet metal: 170 EUR
Rain gutter: 120 EUR
Structural engineering adjustment: 500 EUR
Exterior plaster: 500 EUR
---------------------------------------------
Total: 10,730 EUR
There would also be a potential extra cost for a cement screed (45 m² x 25 EUR): 1,125 EUR. I will do the electrical work myself.
How realistic do you find this estimate?
Originally, we planned to build a carport, but the idea of constructing a garage ourselves never completely disappeared. We have a building permit / planning permission, but it was originally issued for a timber frame garage. Accordingly, the structural calculations are available for that.
To make a final decision, I roughly compiled a list of materials and prices to estimate the costs. A master mason friend is available to help. Most prices were based on online listings or existing quotes from the current building. Only for the garage door do we have concrete offers.
What do you think? Is something major missing or are our prices completely off?
Garage made of 24 cm (9.5 inches) Ytong blocks, 7.00 x 6.50 m (23 x 21 feet), shed roof with 40 cm (16 inches) sandwich panels, sectional door, floor slab existing, no earthworks necessary:
24 cm (9.5 inches) Ytong blocks: 2,000 EUR
Adhesive, 15 bags: 240 EUR
Ring beam with reinforcement: 2,000 EUR (this is where I’m most uncertain)
Roof rafters 8 x 20 cm (3 x 8 inches), 1 m (3 ft) spacing: 500 EUR
Sandwich panels with 40 cm (16 inches) insulation: 1,500 EUR (possibly extra costs for higher insulation)
Sectional door including installation: 3,200 EUR (promotional door 2,500 EUR)
Gutter sheet metal: 170 EUR
Rain gutter: 120 EUR
Structural engineering adjustment: 500 EUR
Exterior plaster: 500 EUR
---------------------------------------------
Total: 10,730 EUR
There would also be a potential extra cost for a cement screed (45 m² x 25 EUR): 1,125 EUR. I will do the electrical work myself.
How realistic do you find this estimate?
S
Simon-18918 Mar 2021 08:2411ant schrieb:
A. Was it, as I suspected, that the available colors were not compatible with the desired ones?
B. Did you consider it practical to use flat panels (wall panels, possibly “double-clad”) for garage roofs to avoid the thick profiling?A: No, the colors would not be the issue. Manufacturers usually offer 10–15 standard RAL colors. There are many shades of gray, such as RAL 7016, 7035, 9002, 9006, 9007, which are common in building construction. In our case, the sandwich panel itself is not approved as either a roofing or wall element. 😕
B: In some projects, it can be advantageous to use wall panels for the roof. But only if an additional waterproof membrane is applied, for example under green roofs or tapered insulation, with an extra UV-resistant foil. The reason is that the joints—that is, the seams from panel to panel—on wall panels are not suitable for standing water (which on a roof is “pressing” water).
Inside a building or hall, wall panels can be used as roof panels again, for instance if an office is added later and no water from above is expected, and if the roof is not going to be used as storage space.
For dimensions of 6 x 7 m (20 x 23 ft), I would guess it’s a double garage with room for a workbench in front of the parked car.
Simon-189 schrieb:
Depending on the design, that can be noticeable. The parapet can only be installed on three sides because internal drainage with sandwich panels is very complex to implement. So, the only option is the external gutter, and from that side, you can see onto the roof from a certain distance. Or neighboring properties may be slightly higher... neighbors from the upper floor...
Apparently, some people find this view disturbing. Go figure 🙄
If the development plan allows sandwich panels, then just put them on the roof! Okay, thanks. That’s no problem for us; the back side with the gutter faces the neighbor’s shed, so it’s not really visible and we don’t mind anyway. Also, I’ve noticed that gray/anthracite colors are offered everywhere, nicely neutral, no neon yellow 🙂
11ant schrieb:
@Nemesis: Are we talking about a single or double garage here? Simon-189 schrieb:
With dimensions of 6x7m (20x23 feet), I would guess it’s a double garage with enough room for a workbench in front of the parked car. Exactly, a large garage (with a sectional door), no workbench but plenty of space for shelves and such. 😉
tomtom79 schrieb:
Another question: Do you have to green the garage roofs? No, it’s not mandatory. However, we have also greened the flat roof of the house, so at least some compensation in that regard...
@Reini1234 Could you still answer my question about the door? That would be great, thanks.
@Simon-189 What (minimum) panel thickness would you recommend? I was actually considering 60mm (2.4 inches), or are 40mm (1.6 inches) panels sufficient? Is cutting them straightforward?
S
Simon-18918 Mar 2021 12:47Nemesis schrieb:
@Simon-189 What (minimum) thickness do you recommend for the panels? I originally planned on 60mm (2.4 inches), or is 40mm (1.6 inches) enough? Cutting works without problems?That depends heavily on the span of the panels and whether the roof needs to remain walkable. With a rafter spacing of 70cm (28 inches) or 100cm (39 inches), 40mm (1.6 inches) panels can hold up, but personally, I would probably go for at least 60mm (2.4 inches) thickness. Without wanting to be too definitive and considering snow load plus 100kg (220 lbs) for one person, the panels can span up to about 2.40m (7.9 feet). A structural engineer should definitely check this to be sure. Cutting is usually done with a jigsaw or circular saw and seems to be fairly easy, although I haven’t had the chance to try it myself yet 😉 Normally, you only need to cut one panel along the full length, depending on how the panels are sized. For length, I would order the precise measurement you actually need right from the start.
That said, due to the work involved, I tend to prefer the larger profiles. In my area, a core thickness of 100mm (4 inches) usually comes out in the structural calculations, even for spans over 2.50m (8.2 feet).
Simon-189 schrieb:
It strongly depends on the span of the panels and whether the roof should remain walkable. With a rafter spacing of 70cm (27.5 inches) or 100cm (39 inches), a 40mm (1.6 inches) panel is sufficient, but personally I would probably go for at least 60mm (2.4 inches) thickness. Without wanting to commit firmly and considering only snow load plus 100kg (220 lbs) for one person, they can span up to 2.40m (7.9 feet). A structural engineer should definitely double-check this. Cutting can be done with a jigsaw or circular saw and is apparently quite easy, although I haven’t had the chance to try it myself yet 😉 Usually, you only have to cut one panel along its full length, depending on how the panels are arranged. For length, I would order them exactly to the required measurement.
From my experience though, I usually lean towards larger profiles. For us, a core thickness of 100mm (3.9 inches) almost always comes out in the structural calculations, even for spans over 2.50m (8.2 feet). The problem is that the suppliers I’ve found so far do not offer custom cuts for my needs (around 42 square meters (452 square feet)). Stock panels are not an issue, but I would have to trim each panel a few centimeters in length and cut the last panel on the side. Most offer panels with a width of 1 meter (39 inches).
With a rafter spacing of about 70cm (27.5 inches), the span is generally not a problem, but I still tend to choose 60mm (2.4 inches).
R
Reini123424 Mar 2021 12:15Nemesis schrieb:
I’m facing the exact same situation and have a similar cost estimate. However, we are actually using the 17.5cm (7 inches) blocks because of the larger interior width.
I still have the following questions:
- From which supplier are you getting the gate including installation? Or is the installation done by a third party?
- For structural reasons, we were advised to have a rafter spacing of about 70cm (28 inches); is the 100cm (39 inches) spacing in your case based on structural calculations or just an estimate?
- Can you and/or others share more about the pros and cons of these sandwich panels? We also want a flat or slightly pitched roof and have considered several roof constructions without being completely sure...
Thanks and best regards Sorry, the email notification didn’t work somehow, and I thought nobody was commenting here anymore.
- The supplier was a local partner of the market leader with the yellow H.
- I estimated the rafter spacing; no structural calculation is available yet. A colleague built her garage with similar dimensions, and only three large glulam beams were used there.
- The advantages have already been mentioned here. The sandwich panels will also be used for the carport if the garage doesn’t work out. Here it’s more about sound insulation from rain, as our bedroom is directly next door.
Could you please share your cost estimate publicly or send it to me?
Reini1234 schrieb:
Could you please share your calculation or send it to me?For us, it roughly (!) looks like this:
| Garage Calculation | ||
| Item | Quantity | Price |
| Foundation | 1 | existing |
| Ytong 17.5 cm (7 inches) blocks | 49 m² (527 ft²) | 1800 |
| Ytong U-blocks* | 44 pieces | 580* |
| Ytong thin-bed mortar | 115 kg (254 lbs) | 120 |
| Concrete | 1 m³ (35 ft³) | 300 |
| Sectional garage door | 1 | 2500 |
| Door installation? | 1 | 1000 |
| Roof rafters | 9 | 1500 |
| Parapet flashing | 26 m (85 ft) | 750 |
| Sandwich panels | 7 | 2000 |
| Gutter and downpipe | 1 | 150 |
| Structural engineer calculation | 1 | existing |
| Door | 1 | 250 |
| Window | 1 | 100 |
| *alternatively simple formwork | ||
| TOTAL | 11,050 |
Our regular handyman suggests skipping the U-blocks and using simple formwork instead. We are also considering installing the garage door ourselves, but I’m still unsure about that...
Similar topics