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Bob-Bau753 Feb 2022 21:30Hello to all home builders and renovators.
I would like to install a plastic window on my ground floor. The window installer said that for measuring, he needs the rough opening in the wall already prepared to produce the window. I believe the opening can also be made accurately afterward, so I wouldn’t have a hole in the wall for 5 weeks.
Now I would like to saw a cutout in the masonry. I plan to fill the cavities of the hollow concrete blocks with mortar to ensure a solid installation of the window. The installer mentioned that in older buildings, these cavities are usually just filled with foam and that works fine.
However, I would like to install a rigid insulation board made of pressure-resistant extruded polystyrene (XPS) in the reveals as an insulating layer. At the hardware store, these XPS boards are available in thicknesses of 20/30/40/50mm (0.8/1.2/1.6/2 inches). Does anyone have experience with how thick the insulation in the reveal should be for triple-glazed windows? My intuition is to use 30mm (1.2 inches) boards.
I would be very grateful for any tips and suggestions.
Best regards, Bob-Bau75
I would like to install a plastic window on my ground floor. The window installer said that for measuring, he needs the rough opening in the wall already prepared to produce the window. I believe the opening can also be made accurately afterward, so I wouldn’t have a hole in the wall for 5 weeks.
Now I would like to saw a cutout in the masonry. I plan to fill the cavities of the hollow concrete blocks with mortar to ensure a solid installation of the window. The installer mentioned that in older buildings, these cavities are usually just filled with foam and that works fine.
However, I would like to install a rigid insulation board made of pressure-resistant extruded polystyrene (XPS) in the reveals as an insulating layer. At the hardware store, these XPS boards are available in thicknesses of 20/30/40/50mm (0.8/1.2/1.6/2 inches). Does anyone have experience with how thick the insulation in the reveal should be for triple-glazed windows? My intuition is to use 30mm (1.2 inches) boards.
I would be very grateful for any tips and suggestions.
Best regards, Bob-Bau75
Bob-Bau75 schrieb:
I would like to fill the cavities of the hollow pumice concrete blocks with mortar to ensure a clean installation of the windows. How many houses
Bob-Bau75 schrieb:
I have to say, reading this calms me down a bit and gives me new motivation to tackle further projects on my little house. Are you currently renovating? About a year and a half ago, it was still a Neckermann.
I especially recommend paying attention to the upper reveal, also called the lintel.
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Bob-Bau754 Feb 2022 19:27Yes, that's correct. I am currently converting my basement into living space. I don't think a lintel is necessary. I plan to install the roller shutter box right up to the precast concrete ceiling, which should eliminate the need for a lintel.
Without a lintel, it’s very risky. Under no circumstances should this be done.
Install a lintel, remove the window opening. Then plaster the wall evenly. Insert the window. Do not use expanding foam. The opening should be around 2–3 cm (1 inch) larger than the actual window all around. A compression tape should be used between the wall and the window. No expanding foam.
Seal the window inside and outside with breathable window sealing tape. Then, attach 3 cm (1¼ inches) thick rigid foam insulation (e.g., Styrodur) both inside and outside. Apply the window connection tape over this and plaster the window.
This is how a proper RAL window installation is performed—no other way.
People buy expensive windows, but then the wall connection is done incorrectly. The best window with the best insulation values is useless if it’s installed incorrectly. Using expanding foam is absolutely wrong in this case.
So if someone sees windows being foamed on their construction site, they should intervene immediately.
Install a lintel, remove the window opening. Then plaster the wall evenly. Insert the window. Do not use expanding foam. The opening should be around 2–3 cm (1 inch) larger than the actual window all around. A compression tape should be used between the wall and the window. No expanding foam.
Seal the window inside and outside with breathable window sealing tape. Then, attach 3 cm (1¼ inches) thick rigid foam insulation (e.g., Styrodur) both inside and outside. Apply the window connection tape over this and plaster the window.
This is how a proper RAL window installation is performed—no other way.
People buy expensive windows, but then the wall connection is done incorrectly. The best window with the best insulation values is useless if it’s installed incorrectly. Using expanding foam is absolutely wrong in this case.
So if someone sees windows being foamed on their construction site, they should intervene immediately.
@Durran
Based on what you wrote, you probably don’t want to rely on the RAL recommendation...
Use expanding foam or another insulation material to fill the gaps and avoid thermal bridges, then apply a smoothing coat. Any insulation material can be used between the masonry and the window frame. The important factor is the materials’ vapor diffusion-equivalent air layer thickness—that is, the vapor barrier on the inside, the insulation in between, and the rain protection on the outside.
This is a common mistake made by many window installers, who often lack professional qualifications. They frequently combine materials arbitrarily, many of which may not even be approved or compatible, but are inexpensive to purchase.
It’s best to use a system like those from Würth or Illbruck, which also offer compressible tapes designed with three sealing zones to ensure these values are met. However, the corner detailing is often done incorrectly, and trades sometimes overlook the joint gaps between disciplines...
For questions regarding structural calculations, consult a structural engineer—as described, a lintel is required. Aside from that, the reveals should be insulated, nowadays usually at least 4–6cm (1.5–2.5 inches) depending on the thermal conductivity/ insulation value.
Based on what you wrote, you probably don’t want to rely on the RAL recommendation...
Use expanding foam or another insulation material to fill the gaps and avoid thermal bridges, then apply a smoothing coat. Any insulation material can be used between the masonry and the window frame. The important factor is the materials’ vapor diffusion-equivalent air layer thickness—that is, the vapor barrier on the inside, the insulation in between, and the rain protection on the outside.
This is a common mistake made by many window installers, who often lack professional qualifications. They frequently combine materials arbitrarily, many of which may not even be approved or compatible, but are inexpensive to purchase.
It’s best to use a system like those from Würth or Illbruck, which also offer compressible tapes designed with three sealing zones to ensure these values are met. However, the corner detailing is often done incorrectly, and trades sometimes overlook the joint gaps between disciplines...
For questions regarding structural calculations, consult a structural engineer—as described, a lintel is required. Aside from that, the reveals should be insulated, nowadays usually at least 4–6cm (1.5–2.5 inches) depending on the thermal conductivity/ insulation value.
Bob-Bau75 schrieb:
I would like to install a uPVC window on the ground floor. The window fitter said he needs the opening in the wall already during the measurement stage for the window production. I believe it is also possible to have the opening made accurately afterwards, so I wouldn’t have a hole in the wall for five weeks.
Now, I would like to saw an opening in the masonry. I plan to fill the cavities of the hollow lightweight concrete blocks with mortar to ensure a clean and secure installation of the window. Bob-Bau75 schrieb:
Yes, that’s correct—I am currently converting my basement into living space. I don’t think a lintel is necessary. I will install the roller shutter box up to the prestressed concrete ceiling, which should make a lintel unnecessary. So, which is it—basement or ground floor? The basement may be made of lightweight concrete blocks, but above that, it’s a 1975 Neckermann, presumably from Streif Haus, which is not made of lightweight concrete blocks (?)
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
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