Hi everyone,
Which type of masonry block would you recommend for a standalone double garage?
Thermal insulation value is not really a priority, more the cost...
Aerated concrete blocks, clay blocks with pores, or rather lightweight concrete blocks?
Aerated concrete seems to be the easiest to work with, right?
Wall thickness would be 240mm (9.5 inches).
I appreciate any tips.
Which type of masonry block would you recommend for a standalone double garage?
Thermal insulation value is not really a priority, more the cost...
Aerated concrete blocks, clay blocks with pores, or rather lightweight concrete blocks?
Aerated concrete seems to be the easiest to work with, right?
Wall thickness would be 240mm (9.5 inches).
I appreciate any tips.
P
Peanuts7410 Dec 2015 13:28Okay, but you don’t need 24 cm (9.5 inches) thick walls for a garage if you’re building with sand-lime brick. Even the standard exterior walls for the house, except for the basement, are only 17.5 cm (7 inches)…
The original poster asked about 24cm (9.5 inches) masonry.
What you said is nonsense. My house has 24cm (9.5 inches) exterior and load-bearing interior walls, despite using high-strength concrete blocks. The builder even wanted to use 30cm (12 inches) walls for the garage, which has a span of 7m (23 feet).
What you said is nonsense. My house has 24cm (9.5 inches) exterior and load-bearing interior walls, despite using high-strength concrete blocks. The builder even wanted to use 30cm (12 inches) walls for the garage, which has a span of 7m (23 feet).
P
Peanuts7410 Dec 2015 14:47Ok, if he really insists on 24cm (10 inches) blocks. But of course, the thickness of the wall definitely depends on the material used.
H
Holzwurm200212 Dec 2015 15:02Well, my house is also made of hollow concrete blocks, but can you just lay them that easily? Or do you need to have some experience for that? The 240mm (9.5 inches) wall thickness was suggested by my architect because the garage is quite large. I’m not sure if that’s why the wall should be 240mm (9.5 inches) thick... I also considered aerated concrete, since it’s quite easy to work with the plan bricks and to modify the blocks, right? How are the prices per square meter in that case?
P
Peanuts7414 Dec 2015 07:49Okay, thermal insulation is naturally better with Ytong or similar aerated concrete blocks, and they are also much easier to work with compared to sand-lime bricks.
Sand-lime bricks are also quite heavy; without a crane, I would recommend handling a maximum size of 17.5 x 50 x 25 cm (7 x 20 x 10 inches), as these already weigh just over 30 kg (66 lbs).
The advantage of sand-lime bricks lies in sound insulation, which is not very important for a garage, and the fact that you can more easily attach items to the wall, whereas with Ytong you might need special anchors.
Before this, I had never done any masonry, and now I have built a few sand-lime brick walls (for example, a shower partition). Once the first row is perfectly level, you can build up the rest almost without a spirit level. With mortar on top, the heavy, dimensionally accurate blocks press tightly onto the ones below just by their own weight.
Sand-lime bricks are also quite heavy; without a crane, I would recommend handling a maximum size of 17.5 x 50 x 25 cm (7 x 20 x 10 inches), as these already weigh just over 30 kg (66 lbs).
The advantage of sand-lime bricks lies in sound insulation, which is not very important for a garage, and the fact that you can more easily attach items to the wall, whereas with Ytong you might need special anchors.
Before this, I had never done any masonry, and now I have built a few sand-lime brick walls (for example, a shower partition). Once the first row is perfectly level, you can build up the rest almost without a spirit level. With mortar on top, the heavy, dimensionally accurate blocks press tightly onto the ones below just by their own weight.
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