Hello,
we had a 9 x 4 m (30 x 13 ft) garage shortened to 7 x 4 m (23 x 13 ft). Now the garage needs to be bricked up again. It’s already frustrating that I couldn’t do the demolition myself... Now, as the future homeowner, I want to at least build a wall myself! However, I have never done this before...
Additionally, a window and a door are to be installed.
The garage was built in 1981. It has a thick foundation with reinforcement and a frost skirt at a depth of 80 cm (31 inches). The walls are made of calcium silicate bricks (2DF). At the top there is a wall tie, which is currently hanging free on two sides due to the demolition. The ceiling consists of 4 m (13 ft) long aerated concrete slabs with steel reinforcement. These rest on the walls.
Now I want to brick up the front wall, where the garage door used to be and which has now been removed, by myself. Also, a standard door and a window should be installed.
In my mind, I had planned to simply build the new wall at a right angle to the existing wall so that it aligns with the aerated concrete ceiling on top. I would install a lintel above the door and window, and that’s it. However, I was told that I should interlock the corners of the walls for stability. Also, the wall tie should be continued?
Perhaps some of you can give me good advice on how to best get started, which approach is the right one, and whether it might be better to just hire a mason to do everything.
For clarification, I have attached photos of both the current state and the planned state.
Thank you in advance!
Good luck,
Manu
we had a 9 x 4 m (30 x 13 ft) garage shortened to 7 x 4 m (23 x 13 ft). Now the garage needs to be bricked up again. It’s already frustrating that I couldn’t do the demolition myself... Now, as the future homeowner, I want to at least build a wall myself! However, I have never done this before...
Additionally, a window and a door are to be installed.
The garage was built in 1981. It has a thick foundation with reinforcement and a frost skirt at a depth of 80 cm (31 inches). The walls are made of calcium silicate bricks (2DF). At the top there is a wall tie, which is currently hanging free on two sides due to the demolition. The ceiling consists of 4 m (13 ft) long aerated concrete slabs with steel reinforcement. These rest on the walls.
Now I want to brick up the front wall, where the garage door used to be and which has now been removed, by myself. Also, a standard door and a window should be installed.
In my mind, I had planned to simply build the new wall at a right angle to the existing wall so that it aligns with the aerated concrete ceiling on top. I would install a lintel above the door and window, and that’s it. However, I was told that I should interlock the corners of the walls for stability. Also, the wall tie should be continued?
Perhaps some of you can give me good advice on how to best get started, which approach is the right one, and whether it might be better to just hire a mason to do everything.
For clarification, I have attached photos of both the current state and the planned state.
Thank you in advance!
Good luck,
Manu
W
winnetou7825 Jul 2017 23:39I would simply cut a joint into every third layer and then build up and tie in the front using the same material. However, there is also the option to solve this with wall ties, but I would prefer a proper interlocking joint that transfers forces reliably.
Nordlys schrieb:
Seal it with Ytong and then plaster it. It won’t collapse. So, you mean like I originally thought, just at a right angle?
winnetou78 schrieb:
I would simply cut a toothed joint (interlock) every third layer, then build up in front of it with the same material and tie it in.
There is also the option to use wall ties, but I would prefer a proper mechanical toothed connection. So it starts with "cutting a toothed joint every third layer." Basically, I begin at the bottom with the first two blocks at a right angle. Then I lay the third block interlocked into the existing wall, and the next two blocks again at a right angle to the existing wall, and so on?
Do I understand correctly that if I interlock, I can skip using wall ties, and vice versa?
Thanks!
W
winnetou7826 Jul 2017 00:02Exactly.
But the interlocking joint is the better option.
And you can now cut it in easily without much effort.
But the interlocking joint is the better option.
And you can now cut it in easily without much effort.
B
Bieber081526 Jul 2017 06:54- The same brick as the rest of the garage.
- As winnetou78 mentioned, regularly tie into the other walls.
- Pay attention to the horizontal damp-proof course (I think you can see it on the other walls as well).
- The first row is the most important, put in the effort.
- For plastering, I would look for a bricklayer (on an informal basis, neighborhood help).
For the ring beam, I would say: leave some gaps, just block it up.
The roof should still have a metal flashing.
- As winnetou78 mentioned, regularly tie into the other walls.
- Pay attention to the horizontal damp-proof course (I think you can see it on the other walls as well).
- The first row is the most important, put in the effort.
- For plastering, I would look for a bricklayer (on an informal basis, neighborhood help).
For the ring beam, I would say: leave some gaps, just block it up.
The roof should still have a metal flashing.
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