ᐅ Blower Door Test 1.7 with Two Notes

For the energy saving regulation, a score of 2.99 is sufficient to pass.

The problem is that the test result is below 3, so it’s a fail.
They are definitely required to fix the identified defects, but unfortunately, I won’t be able to do more than that... I’m really upset.

I will request a retest after the defects have been addressed and hope that the result will be significantly better then.

Thanks for the information – below 3.0? I think that’s a bad joke.

With controlled residential ventilation, it’s 1.5, which wouldn’t be a great performance for the building. I believe I’ve heard something about 0.1 to 0.2 for top-performing houses.

There is not much you can do about the test result. Passed is passed.
Any suspected defects should be inspected by experts and corrected by the general contractor. A sign that something might be wrong is the value itself.

I can hardly believe values of 0.1 or 0.2. Many here have values in the range of 0.6 to 0.8, which is nearly or just at the Passive House standard. Still, it is not easy to reliably achieve a value better than 0.6. That is why two tests are conducted for Passive Houses, and sealing is done much more thoroughly. The first test takes place after the building envelope is closed, before screed and interior finishing.

I once saw the BDT online from someone who built a plus-energy house in Bavaria – I believe it was around 0.2 before and 0.1 or 0.15 afterwards.

Our BDT tester stated (in 2008) that values between 1.0 and 0.5 are common for houses with controlled mechanical ventilation.

I wouldn’t focus on the exact value but rather on the identified defects that need to be corrected.
The goal is not to criticize an arbitrary limit but to address specific construction deficiencies.

That said, 1.7 is not exactly great.