ᐅ Cracks in the bitumen waterproofing of the perimeter insulation
Created on: 28 Aug 2013 18:56
D
digger123D
digger12328 Aug 2013 18:56Hello,
I glued my perimeter insulation using PCI 2K bituminous thick coating to attach the 120mm (5 inches) BASF insulation boards after the wall coating (bituminous thick coating) had dried. After a few days here in the Palatinate region, cracks have appeared on the insulation boards!!!
Does anyone have experience with this? I assumed that bituminous thick coating can also be used as an adhesive. Do I need to repair the cracks? My plan was to finish the drainage now and backfill the shaft with soil (without a dimpled membrane).
Regards
I glued my perimeter insulation using PCI 2K bituminous thick coating to attach the 120mm (5 inches) BASF insulation boards after the wall coating (bituminous thick coating) had dried. After a few days here in the Palatinate region, cracks have appeared on the insulation boards!!!
Does anyone have experience with this? I assumed that bituminous thick coating can also be used as an adhesive. Do I need to repair the cracks? My plan was to finish the drainage now and backfill the shaft with soil (without a dimpled membrane).
Regards
A
AallRounder6 Sep 2013 08:20Hello Digger,
Did you follow the technical datasheet exactly when gluing?
"Perimeter insulation: Insulation or drainage boards (e.g. made of extruded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, or foam glass) can be applied onto the fully cured PCI Pecimor 2K waterproofing. According to DIN 18195-4, the bonding is done with approximately 5 to 8 adhesive spots per board. According to DIN 18195-6, bonding is done fully and without any cavities. The joints between boards must be sealed by skimming to prevent water ingress. For bonding, we recommend our insulation board adhesive PCI Pecimor DK."
Despite recommending that adhesive, PCI also states:
"Suitable for bonding rigid foam insulation boards (perimeter insulation)," meaning you can also use the bituminous compound for bonding.
With boards that have tongue-and-groove edges, water should not penetrate despite cracked skim coat if the bonding is accurate. Nevertheless, I would skim over the cracks again and allow them to dry. The overlap of the boards should be designed so that no water can seep in from above—for example, by placing edge stones in concrete or similar. You can also place a studded membrane tightly against the boards (possibly folding it over at the top) and then backfill with 16/32mm (5/8 inch) gravel after installing the drainage system, so it presses the membrane against the boards. The water essentially "shoots" along the studded membrane directly through the gravel bed to the drainage without contacting your boards at all. I would use a studded membrane at least as protection for the boards against mechanical damage.
Regards,
AallRounder
Did you follow the technical datasheet exactly when gluing?
"Perimeter insulation: Insulation or drainage boards (e.g. made of extruded polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, or foam glass) can be applied onto the fully cured PCI Pecimor 2K waterproofing. According to DIN 18195-4, the bonding is done with approximately 5 to 8 adhesive spots per board. According to DIN 18195-6, bonding is done fully and without any cavities. The joints between boards must be sealed by skimming to prevent water ingress. For bonding, we recommend our insulation board adhesive PCI Pecimor DK."
Despite recommending that adhesive, PCI also states:
"Suitable for bonding rigid foam insulation boards (perimeter insulation)," meaning you can also use the bituminous compound for bonding.
With boards that have tongue-and-groove edges, water should not penetrate despite cracked skim coat if the bonding is accurate. Nevertheless, I would skim over the cracks again and allow them to dry. The overlap of the boards should be designed so that no water can seep in from above—for example, by placing edge stones in concrete or similar. You can also place a studded membrane tightly against the boards (possibly folding it over at the top) and then backfill with 16/32mm (5/8 inch) gravel after installing the drainage system, so it presses the membrane against the boards. The water essentially "shoots" along the studded membrane directly through the gravel bed to the drainage without contacting your boards at all. I would use a studded membrane at least as protection for the boards against mechanical damage.
Regards,
AallRounder
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