ᐅ Which is more suitable for the site conditions: a basement or a slab foundation?

Created on: 28 Jan 2024 19:38
T
TobsBAU
Hello everyone,
I am new to the forum and have purchased a plot of land from the municipality in a new development area, where a single-family house is planned to be built within the next 1.5 years (1 or 2 stories).
For some time now, I have been struggling with the site conditions (slight slope and below street level) and the associated question of whether a basement might actually be the smarter/more cost-effective (or at least cost-neutral) solution in this situation. To answer this question properly, I will probably need quotes from civil contractors and, above all, a geotechnical soil report. Regarding the soil report, I seem to be going in circles because all geotechnical engineers want very precise information about the planned construction, which in turn depends on the decision between a basement or slab-on-grade foundation.

I am hoping to get advice on the following questions:
  • Is it possible, when building with a basement, to use the excavated soil to fill the plot up to street level (no costly disposal required)?
  • What advice can you give me about the soil report (the exact future construction is not yet fixed)?
  • I am torn between the following options (which do you think is more sensible?):
    • Build with a basement and fill the plot to street level using the excavated soil (hold back the northeast property boundary with a 1 m high retaining wall).
    • Allow a partial slope to create a daylight basement room facing northeast, which could possibly be used as an office. The utility room would naturally also be in the basement, but I would prefer to avoid a sump pump system if possible.
    • Fill the plot (up to street level or slightly below) and build with a slab-on-grade foundation (hold back the northeast property boundary with a 1 m high retaining wall). However, I am concerned about the costs for fill material and necessary compaction. The utility room would be on the ground floor or upper floor, no sump pump system, but probably with a backwater valve.


All prefab house suppliers, etc., I have contacted so far have really not addressed these conditions. They just ask for a budget range and then assume a flat fee of €25,000 for earthworks, etc. I suspect this will not be enough, and I want to make these costs tangible for my financial planning! When the basement topic comes up, even architects generally say a basement is always expensive. If the budget is tight, better to do without a basement...

Here are some details and premises I want to share with you:
  • The plot is below street level. The adjacent neighboring plot (southeast) has been raised up to street level (top of finished floor level +156.14 m).
  • Because of the filling up to street level, no backwater valve was needed there. On the opposite plot (northwest, behind the sidewalk), the fill was not raised as high, so a backwater valve was required. If I build with a basement, I would probably have to plan for a sump pump system even if I fill up to street level.
  • According to the development plan, a retaining wall up to one meter high may be built to compensate for the slope; beyond that, slopes with an angle of 30° must be used (see attachment). Of course, both neighboring properties have taken advantage of this and installed suitable L-shaped retaining walls on the northeast side.
  • Basically, I would not have necessarily filled the plot, but since the southeast side was raised and that is where most of the natural light comes from, I feel almost compelled to at least partially fill.
  • Unlike the neighboring development, I am considering positioning the house (gable roof) with the gable perpendicular to the street (see sketch). This would improve lighting and usability of the plot.
  • There is a castle to the northeast at some distance, which should also be taken into account when planning the house (view connection).
  • The plot is 464 m² (about 5,000 sq ft) and located 800 m (0.5 miles) from a river (about 15 m (50 feet) above the water surface, no flood risk). Additional waterproofing measures for a basement are to be expected (most likely a waterproof concrete shell). A neighbor who built with a basement had to seal it from the outside (apparently afterwards).
  • The development plan is generally quite generous: 2 full floors allowed, max ridge height = 6.5 m (21 ft 4 in), max eaves height = 10.5 m (34 ft 5 in), floor area ratio: 0.4
  • Surveying has been done (see attachment)

Thank you very much, and I look forward to your suggestions and advice!
Modern white houses next to an open grassy field; forested hills and cloudy sky in the background.

Side view of a document: section on fences and retaining walls with legal references.

Text about terrain changes and diagram with slopes/heights (max. 1.5 m / 5 feet)

Building site plan: floor plan with contour lines, paths, buildings, legend, scale 1:100.

Parcel location plan with street names, coordinates and property boundary markers

House floor plan with garage, exterior dimensions and orientation

Page from a geotechnical report: soil investigation and geotechnical information with text excerpts.
Y
ypg
30 Jan 2024 09:25
TobsBAU schrieb:

Thank you for the sketch, so you consider 5 sampling points reasonable

Two should be enough, positioned diagonally across the planned floor area. An offset of one meter (3 feet) should not be an issue.
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hanghaus2023
30 Jan 2024 09:30
Thanks for the additional documents. I agree with the architects' assessment. The reference height is 155.77 m (511.0 ft) + 5 m (16 ft) * 2% = 155.87 m (511.3 ft) finished floor level.

With the eaves height and ridge height, almost everything is possible here.

Since you are building with a basement, you probably have some leftover material that you can use for backfilling.

I would talk to the neighbor about allowing them to do the backfilling up to your property line with a slope of 2:1. This gives them the advantage of being able to build the garage, and you save on fill material.

Check if a building permit / planning permission allows a construction closer to the street. Otherwise, you will have the same issue with the access road as your neighbor to the south.
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WilderSueden
30 Jan 2024 10:02
TobsBAU schrieb:

156.14 m (512.3 ft) is the top edge of the slab of the neighboring building. Do you think that is necessary and practical, or is it just a theoretical height to account for heavy rainfall events? At the neighboring building, this results in the entrance being accessible only via one step (not barrier-free).

Which exact height you choose is up to you. However, I would use the top edge of the slab as the reference point rather than the raw floor level (= screed), since your doors rest on the slab. Of course, there will be additional sealing, but this is the more conservative approach. Also, there should be a way for water to flow around the house between the street and this height.
A step is not necessarily required; we have a barrier-free entrance. The path rises slightly in front of the main door to prevent water from the neighboring property from flowing directly to the entrance, directing it instead into the garden.
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hanghaus2023
30 Jan 2024 10:04
Here is my suggestion.

Site plan of a building complex: blue main building, grey attached and ancillary buildings, red dividing line.


If a carport with direct driveway close to the street is allowed, then it is perfect with low costs. Otherwise, the driveway should be from the south.

Normally, building on the boundary is required. Then like this.

Site plan: blue building area as garage/carport with grey extensions, property boundary.
K a t j a30 Jan 2024 10:55
I somehow feel there is a lack of privacy on the terrace due to the house positioning. Is this the only way to achieve privacy? However, I can't think of a better solution right away.
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hanghaus2023
30 Jan 2024 11:52
K a t j a schrieb:

I somehow feel that the placement of the house lacks privacy on the terrace. Is that the only option? But I can’t think of a better solution right away.
In my opinion, there’s not much you can do. The neighbor to the south should first indicate where the garage will be. Then maybe place it behind the garage.

Even a 3 m (10 ft) high hedge won’t prevent the neighbor from being able to see you.