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Peanuts7417 Jan 2017 14:16For organizational reasons (since there is nothing to do outside at the moment), I wanted to tile the garage. However, the interior walls have not been plastered yet.
Therefore, I am wondering whether it would be better to skip the base tiles, make only a scratched edge between the floor tiles and the plaster if the plaster is applied later, and then glue the base tiles onto the plaster, or whether it would be possible to already glue the base tiles directly onto the masonry and then apply the plaster flush with them?
Therefore, I am wondering whether it would be better to skip the base tiles, make only a scratched edge between the floor tiles and the plaster if the plaster is applied later, and then glue the base tiles onto the plaster, or whether it would be possible to already glue the base tiles directly onto the masonry and then apply the plaster flush with them?
Hello "Peanuts74".
The issue is technically correct and also easy to solve.
In this case, lay the floor tiles with a gap from the wall that corresponds to the later plaster thickness.
Now the floor is fully tiled, and (too late) the plasterer arrives.
They must cover the existing tile surface over the entire area (!!) and apply (secured with masking tape against unintentional movement) a 6 to 8mm (1/4 to 5/16 inch) thick screed strip along the wall directly on the floor at the wall to be plastered.
Then they apply the wall plaster and "set" it down onto the strip.
Once the plaster has hardened and the wall or even just the base tiles have been installed, the screed strip is completely pulled out along the wall surfaces.
The joint cavity between the floor and base tiles is thoroughly vacuumed with a strong vacuum cleaner, then a round cord about 5mm (3/16 inch) deep is pushed into the joint cavity (in fact, this is no longer visibly recessed from the outside) and then an elastic joint seal is applied between the base and floor tiles in a triangular joint profile.
That’s how it works!
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Best regards, KlaRa
The issue is technically correct and also easy to solve.
In this case, lay the floor tiles with a gap from the wall that corresponds to the later plaster thickness.
Now the floor is fully tiled, and (too late) the plasterer arrives.
They must cover the existing tile surface over the entire area (!!) and apply (secured with masking tape against unintentional movement) a 6 to 8mm (1/4 to 5/16 inch) thick screed strip along the wall directly on the floor at the wall to be plastered.
Then they apply the wall plaster and "set" it down onto the strip.
Once the plaster has hardened and the wall or even just the base tiles have been installed, the screed strip is completely pulled out along the wall surfaces.
The joint cavity between the floor and base tiles is thoroughly vacuumed with a strong vacuum cleaner, then a round cord about 5mm (3/16 inch) deep is pushed into the joint cavity (in fact, this is no longer visibly recessed from the outside) and then an elastic joint seal is applied between the base and floor tiles in a triangular joint profile.
That’s how it works!
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Best regards, KlaRa
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Peanuts7418 Jan 2017 07:42So the base tiles will definitely be installed later, am I understanding that correctly? It’s clear that there must be an expansion joint between the floor tiles and the plaster, but is it a problem if the tile extends beneath the plaster? Can the swelling strip also be placed on the tile to maintain the gap?
Hello "Peanuts74".
Baseboard tiles are generally installed last in the standard procedure, only after the floor and wall tiles (if any) have been completed. In your case, however, you mentioned timing issues between the trades "tiling and plastering."
It is not common for a floor tile to be laid extending beneath the wall plaster. Usually, the wall plaster is already in place when the floor tiles are installed. However, given the special situation you described, it is possible to do it as I explained, without fearing any drawbacks in the workmanship.
(Quote)
"Can the expansion strip also be laid on the tile to maintain the gap?"
That is exactly what I wrote!
Moreover, it is not an expansion strip, but a setting strip, because something is being set against it.
-----------------------------------
Best regards, KlaRa
Baseboard tiles are generally installed last in the standard procedure, only after the floor and wall tiles (if any) have been completed. In your case, however, you mentioned timing issues between the trades "tiling and plastering."
It is not common for a floor tile to be laid extending beneath the wall plaster. Usually, the wall plaster is already in place when the floor tiles are installed. However, given the special situation you described, it is possible to do it as I explained, without fearing any drawbacks in the workmanship.
(Quote)
"Can the expansion strip also be laid on the tile to maintain the gap?"
That is exactly what I wrote!
Moreover, it is not an expansion strip, but a setting strip, because something is being set against it.
-----------------------------------
Best regards, KlaRa
P
Peanuts7418 Jan 2017 11:50One more question: In the storage room in the basement, I glued and plastered drywall panels to the wall. Would this also work in the garage, of course using the green moisture-resistant panels? It is a garage, so the highest aesthetic standards are not required, whereas the storage room looks very neat.
I would like to add that it is a basement garage located within the thermal envelope but is not heated itself. However, other rooms in the basement are heated, so even during the cold temperatures of the past days, the garage temperature remains at least around +10°C (50°F).
The garage also has a window, but it is usually kept closed during winter.
So the question is whether the moisture brought in by the car is high enough to damage the drywall panels, or if there are special paints available for such conditions.
I would like to add that it is a basement garage located within the thermal envelope but is not heated itself. However, other rooms in the basement are heated, so even during the cold temperatures of the past days, the garage temperature remains at least around +10°C (50°F).
The garage also has a window, but it is usually kept closed during winter.
So the question is whether the moisture brought in by the car is high enough to damage the drywall panels, or if there are special paints available for such conditions.
Hello "Peanuts74".
If this concerns thermal insulation:
It is generally installed on the cold side of a building, which is the exterior side. Interior insulation is usually the exception!
A temperature of +10°C (50°F) in a garage means that the stored vehicles are not exposed to frost or temperatures below freezing. This fulfills important winter requirements for a garage.
Condensation occurs only when warm, moisture-laden air comes into contact with a cold surface and the dew point is reached at the interface.
Building materials (and I assume "drywall panels" are such) should only be used according to their intended purpose. This information can be found in the corresponding product datasheet.
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Regards, KlaRa
If this concerns thermal insulation:
It is generally installed on the cold side of a building, which is the exterior side. Interior insulation is usually the exception!
A temperature of +10°C (50°F) in a garage means that the stored vehicles are not exposed to frost or temperatures below freezing. This fulfills important winter requirements for a garage.
Condensation occurs only when warm, moisture-laden air comes into contact with a cold surface and the dew point is reached at the interface.
Building materials (and I assume "drywall panels" are such) should only be used according to their intended purpose. This information can be found in the corresponding product datasheet.
----------------------
Regards, KlaRa
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