ᐅ Installation: Wall Mount for Punching Bag

Hello everyone, I have the following concern:

I want to install a steel wall bracket for a 70 kg (154 lbs) heavy punching bag. According to the building specifications of our terraced house (built 1989, NRW), the following applies to the wall (1st floor; facing the neighbor):

,,All load-bearing walls are constructed from masonry, and where necessary, concrete." ,,The exterior walls are insulated with a 6 cm (2.4 inches) thick core insulation mat and faced with an 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) thick sand-lime brick veneer."

Slightly offset from each other, I made 4 test drillings (3 mm, about 10 cm (4 inches) deep) through the textured wallpaper using a masonry drill bit and could not detect any cavities. In my opinion, the "masonry" consists of solid sand-lime bricks.
Is there a risk that it might actually be hollow or perforated brick? If so, how can I ensure this (more test drillings)?

The punching bag bracket has 6 M10 holes for wall mounting (4 on top, 2 on the bottom). Included in the delivery were 6 screws M8x60 and 6 matching metal expansion anchors (probably only for concrete fixing?). However, these do not seem very secure to me because of their short length. Considering the punching bag will cause significant vibrations... I recently came across anchor rods and injection mortar (e.g. FIS A+V by Fischer) online. Is this the right solution for my problem or overkill? How long should/can the threaded rods be, would M8x110 be okay? About 1.5 cm (0.6 inches) should protrude from the wall. And would I also need anchor sleeves made of plastic or metal?

If relevant, the punching bag is 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) tall, the wall bracket extends 60 cm (24 inches) from the wall (meaning the distance from punching bag center to wall), and the suspension (chains, spring...) takes up about 50 cm (20 inches).

Additionally, I’m interested in how to avoid drilling into a joint when drilling through wallpaper, or does this not affect stability?

After days of research, I am completely confused. I hope one of the experts here can at least offer some guidance. I am very grateful for any tip. Thank you in advance!

Best regards

V4L3NTIN

Since neither you nor I have X-ray vision (or do we?), there’s no way to be sure if you’ll hit a joint or not. It’s really a matter of luck. If fastening materials are included, they should be the correct ones. However, some manufacturers do try to cut corners in the wrong places.

You wrote

V4L3NTIN schrieb:
the following can be gathered about the wall (1st floor; facing the neighbor):

So the bracket is supposed to be attached to the partition wall shared with the neighbor. I can well imagine that they might not be too pleased about that. After all, I would expect that they might hear some of the impacts when you’re hitting the punching bag.

Hello,

First of all, thank you very much for the quick response. Attached are some photos of the anchors, the bracket, and the punching bag (right variant).

I assume that the existing masonry is also plastered (1-2 cm (0.4-0.8 inches)?). This means that the 6 anchors are each only firmly embedded about 4-5 cm (1.6-2 inches) deep. Additionally, due to the leverage effect, essentially all the weight rests on the top 4 anchors. Since sand-lime brick (possibly even hollow brick) is much less stable compared to concrete, I now have some concerns.

To clarify the dimensions: It is a 70 kg (154 lbs) and 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in) long punching bag (lever arm), intended for training punches and kicks (jerky/impact loads).

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I think mechanical anchors, regardless of type (except heavy-duty anchors), will gradually “work loose” under these conditions. That is why my initial thought was to use the chemical method (injection mortar).

Regarding the neighbors, I am not too worried. The sound insulation between the buildings is actually very good. Of course, I will do my best to decouple the bag from the bracket (spring, ropes, etc.) and obviously won’t train at night. ;-P Also, we have a very good relationship with our neighbors. In case of any issues, I am sure a time-based agreement can be reached.

Thanks again in advance, I appreciate any advice!

Best regards,

V4L3NTIN

Why don’t you hang it from the ceiling? If it’s a concrete ceiling, you won’t have any problems. We had a bean bag hanging from the ceiling for many years, with three appropriate screws and a load capacity of 150 kg (330 lbs) – it held perfectly, even when we were roughhousing with the whole family.

Hello,
first of all, thank you!

Unfortunately, on the first floor, we only have drywall ceilings that are also attached to the collar ties with battens. Removing a full drywall panel from below or the carpet from above is not an option. I don’t see any other way to access a load-bearing beam. Additionally, from several experience reports, I understand that sound spreads significantly more to the neighbors when mounted on the ceiling. Another room is also unfortunately not an option.

Thanks again!

Best regards,
V4L3NTIN

I believe my post might have been overlooked. I am still seeking advice. Are the anchors shown above (regardless of size) suitable for calcium silicate brick or only for concrete?