Hello everyone!
I’m new here and, as you might expect, I already have a few questions.
I want to redecorate my living room and have already checked out several furniture stores until I finally settled on the BESTÅ system from IKEA. I liked it best for its design and modularity.
So, I started planning before Easter.
But last week I got a shock:
The BESTÅ DVD shelf 60x20x192cm (24x8x75 inches) has been completely discontinued, and the DVD shelf 30x20x192cm (12x8x75 inches) is now only available in white.
Also, the FRAMSTÅ glass shelves 60x21cm (24x8 inches) (701.461.79) are no longer available.
Great, of course with no announcement on the website...
My email inquiry has gone unanswered for a week, so I went to IKEA in Fürth today.
Fortunately, they still had a few leftover BESTÅ DVD shelves 60x20x192cm (24x8x75 inches) in beech (901.021.03) at a reduced price. How lucky that this was exactly the color I wanted.
So I grabbed two, even though I don’t know if I’ll actually need them all.
Unfortunately, the glass shelves were completely sold out.
Does anyone know where I could still get 2 to 4 pieces?
I want to place 2 BESTÅ TV units with FRAMSTÅ panel rows next to each other, mounting the TV in the middle, with glass shelves on the left and right.
The TV is smaller, but the planner only allows for a 60" between the two rows.
The grey drawers in the middle are meant to represent the amplifier and DVD player.
And then I have a question about the FRAMSTÅ system:
You can cut holes for cables in the FRAMSTÅ panel inserts, but how do the cables get into the panels?
I will likely mount the cabinets about 1cm (0.4 inches) away from the wall because of power and antenna cables, but the panels have to go directly against the wall.
So how do I route my cables from the BESTÅ unit into the panels?
Do I have to saw holes into the side end rails, or how did the IKEA designers intend this?
The assembly instructions only show how the cables come out of the panel at the front, but not how they get into the panel in the first place...
I would appreciate any tips!
Best regards,
Stefan
I’m new here and, as you might expect, I already have a few questions.
I want to redecorate my living room and have already checked out several furniture stores until I finally settled on the BESTÅ system from IKEA. I liked it best for its design and modularity.
So, I started planning before Easter.
But last week I got a shock:
The BESTÅ DVD shelf 60x20x192cm (24x8x75 inches) has been completely discontinued, and the DVD shelf 30x20x192cm (12x8x75 inches) is now only available in white.
Also, the FRAMSTÅ glass shelves 60x21cm (24x8 inches) (701.461.79) are no longer available.
Great, of course with no announcement on the website...
My email inquiry has gone unanswered for a week, so I went to IKEA in Fürth today.
Fortunately, they still had a few leftover BESTÅ DVD shelves 60x20x192cm (24x8x75 inches) in beech (901.021.03) at a reduced price. How lucky that this was exactly the color I wanted.
So I grabbed two, even though I don’t know if I’ll actually need them all.
Unfortunately, the glass shelves were completely sold out.
Does anyone know where I could still get 2 to 4 pieces?
I want to place 2 BESTÅ TV units with FRAMSTÅ panel rows next to each other, mounting the TV in the middle, with glass shelves on the left and right.
The TV is smaller, but the planner only allows for a 60" between the two rows.
The grey drawers in the middle are meant to represent the amplifier and DVD player.
And then I have a question about the FRAMSTÅ system:
You can cut holes for cables in the FRAMSTÅ panel inserts, but how do the cables get into the panels?
I will likely mount the cabinets about 1cm (0.4 inches) away from the wall because of power and antenna cables, but the panels have to go directly against the wall.
So how do I route my cables from the BESTÅ unit into the panels?
Do I have to saw holes into the side end rails, or how did the IKEA designers intend this?
The assembly instructions only show how the cables come out of the panel at the front, but not how they get into the panel in the first place...
I would appreciate any tips!
Best regards,
Stefan
E
EinrichtungsNiete20 Apr 2012 13:02Ah yes, thanks for the information!
So the problem is already resolved, wonderful.
So the problem is already resolved, wonderful.
L
Luninator16 Jul 2012 13:38Hello everyone,
I’m currently working on my Besta wall unit and struggling with cable management. It’s the first time in my IKEA-influenced life that something has been really impractical. All cables have to be installed during assembly. Replacing them afterward is quite difficult, so it’s better to run an extra HDMI cable and similar as a spare. Once the cables are routed at the bottom, you face the next problem: you definitely have to cut into the cabinet underneath. Unfortunately, the space there isn’t bigger compared to the already limited clearance beside the Framsta rails, because the cabinet has a mounting screw for the side panel/top right at that spot. So you can only cut in from above, not remove a piece of the side panel. I plan to saw out a wider section along the Framsta rail so that the cable ends fit through, which should leave “almost” as much space inside the Besta cabinet as there is at the edge of the Framsta rails — it should just about work.
I say “should” because I had to pause the build for now. Except for one cable, all my cables are too short. I need just under 2 meters (6.5 feet) to reach the base of the panel, so all cables need to be between 2.5 and 3 meters (8 to 10 feet) long. That’s why I went cable hunting on eBay yesterday. As mentioned above, I recommend that everyone plan for spares here, since you’ll practically need to disassemble the entire wall unit to make changes later. I’m also planning to add LED lighting behind the glass panels. If everything ends up looking the way I imagine, the effort will have been worth it^^ Hopefully, all the cables arrive quickly. I wouldn’t be surprised if all but one show up in the mailbox on Wednesday and I still can’t continue. It’s great having a living room full of moving boxes and no wall unit! I’ll gladly share photos of the cable management and drilling in the cabinet when I get further.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And by the way, a tip for your cabinet planning and search: The children’s series Stuva is identical to Besta, but offers different dimensions and depths for the furniture. I have Stuva in the children’s room and needed a narrow wall shelf above the changing table, so I bought a Besta shelf and noticed this. The doors are fully compatible, all drilling points are identical, and the material is the same. It’s the same furniture series, just with a different name and different sizes.
I’m currently working on my Besta wall unit and struggling with cable management. It’s the first time in my IKEA-influenced life that something has been really impractical. All cables have to be installed during assembly. Replacing them afterward is quite difficult, so it’s better to run an extra HDMI cable and similar as a spare. Once the cables are routed at the bottom, you face the next problem: you definitely have to cut into the cabinet underneath. Unfortunately, the space there isn’t bigger compared to the already limited clearance beside the Framsta rails, because the cabinet has a mounting screw for the side panel/top right at that spot. So you can only cut in from above, not remove a piece of the side panel. I plan to saw out a wider section along the Framsta rail so that the cable ends fit through, which should leave “almost” as much space inside the Besta cabinet as there is at the edge of the Framsta rails — it should just about work.
I say “should” because I had to pause the build for now. Except for one cable, all my cables are too short. I need just under 2 meters (6.5 feet) to reach the base of the panel, so all cables need to be between 2.5 and 3 meters (8 to 10 feet) long. That’s why I went cable hunting on eBay yesterday. As mentioned above, I recommend that everyone plan for spares here, since you’ll practically need to disassemble the entire wall unit to make changes later. I’m also planning to add LED lighting behind the glass panels. If everything ends up looking the way I imagine, the effort will have been worth it^^ Hopefully, all the cables arrive quickly. I wouldn’t be surprised if all but one show up in the mailbox on Wednesday and I still can’t continue. It’s great having a living room full of moving boxes and no wall unit! I’ll gladly share photos of the cable management and drilling in the cabinet when I get further.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And by the way, a tip for your cabinet planning and search: The children’s series Stuva is identical to Besta, but offers different dimensions and depths for the furniture. I have Stuva in the children’s room and needed a narrow wall shelf above the changing table, so I bought a Besta shelf and noticed this. The doors are fully compatible, all drilling points are identical, and the material is the same. It’s the same furniture series, just with a different name and different sizes.
L
Luninator23 Jul 2012 16:06This TV wall is slowly driving me crazy.
All the ordered cables have arrived—except for one. Great, because I can’t build more than the bottom row of cabinets until it’s here... Other than that, my "cable harness" is now complete except for that one cable, and space is really tight. The plan includes: power for the TV (still missing), TV satellite, TV DVB-T, TV network, 2x HDMI, component cable (Wii), Wii sensor bar, SCART extension (spare), and RCA for TV audio output. That’s 10 cables in total.
In addition, there’s the DIODER LED strip to backlight the glass panels. The plan was to use 2 of these small adhesive strips per panel, but I might install 3 per panel instead, which fortunately can be done later without too much hassle. BUT: The connection cable for the DIODER LED strips is also too short! In the furniture store, they light entire walls of these panels with them, and it’s only possible to reach 2 panels upward if you want to install the control unit inside the cabinet below. So today, I cut off the connectors on one side of two cables on each of two sets and re-crimped the wires, added heat shrink tubing, and now I have from 2 packs of DIODER strips—which originally had 8x 1m (3 feet) connection cables—two cables of 2m (6.5 feet) and two of 1m (3 feet). That should be enough since the connection cables basically end right after the “tube” of the FRAMSTA panels...
For the BESTA cabinet under the lowest FRAMSTA panel where the cables will be fed through, I naturally had to cut out a piece of the top board. I left the back panel completely out since the plugs are on the wall there anyway. This meant cutting a rectangular opening exactly under the cable grommets from the back side. The plan sounded great: nothing should be visible, and the screws holding the BESTA cabinet would remain untouched. However, the execution was disappointing because at the height of the cable grommets, the “solid” wood part ends and the honeycomb cardboard core begins. As soon as you cut there, a small piece of the very thin veneer inevitably breaks off. I was actually lucky—only about 2x3mm (0.08x0.12 inches) is visible afterward. I sealed the cut surface inside, especially toward the honeycomb core, with acrylic to prevent pests from nesting there. The white acrylic also made the small veneer chip almost invisible. If you want to avoid cutting into the honeycomb core 100%, you should carefully cut from the back only as deep as necessary so that you can use only the rear cable channel of the FRAMSTA panel. If space is tight like in my case, tape everything securely and cut as carefully as possible!
Once the last cable finally arrives, I’ll get started and wrestle with the cables to get them all in there^^
All the ordered cables have arrived—except for one. Great, because I can’t build more than the bottom row of cabinets until it’s here... Other than that, my "cable harness" is now complete except for that one cable, and space is really tight. The plan includes: power for the TV (still missing), TV satellite, TV DVB-T, TV network, 2x HDMI, component cable (Wii), Wii sensor bar, SCART extension (spare), and RCA for TV audio output. That’s 10 cables in total.
In addition, there’s the DIODER LED strip to backlight the glass panels. The plan was to use 2 of these small adhesive strips per panel, but I might install 3 per panel instead, which fortunately can be done later without too much hassle. BUT: The connection cable for the DIODER LED strips is also too short! In the furniture store, they light entire walls of these panels with them, and it’s only possible to reach 2 panels upward if you want to install the control unit inside the cabinet below. So today, I cut off the connectors on one side of two cables on each of two sets and re-crimped the wires, added heat shrink tubing, and now I have from 2 packs of DIODER strips—which originally had 8x 1m (3 feet) connection cables—two cables of 2m (6.5 feet) and two of 1m (3 feet). That should be enough since the connection cables basically end right after the “tube” of the FRAMSTA panels...
For the BESTA cabinet under the lowest FRAMSTA panel where the cables will be fed through, I naturally had to cut out a piece of the top board. I left the back panel completely out since the plugs are on the wall there anyway. This meant cutting a rectangular opening exactly under the cable grommets from the back side. The plan sounded great: nothing should be visible, and the screws holding the BESTA cabinet would remain untouched. However, the execution was disappointing because at the height of the cable grommets, the “solid” wood part ends and the honeycomb cardboard core begins. As soon as you cut there, a small piece of the very thin veneer inevitably breaks off. I was actually lucky—only about 2x3mm (0.08x0.12 inches) is visible afterward. I sealed the cut surface inside, especially toward the honeycomb core, with acrylic to prevent pests from nesting there. The white acrylic also made the small veneer chip almost invisible. If you want to avoid cutting into the honeycomb core 100%, you should carefully cut from the back only as deep as necessary so that you can use only the rear cable channel of the FRAMSTA panel. If space is tight like in my case, tape everything securely and cut as carefully as possible!
Once the last cable finally arrives, I’ll get started and wrestle with the cables to get them all in there^^
L
Luninator24 Jul 2012 21:21No more waiting for the cable—I got a different one today. Then it started, and it remains that the BESTA-FRAMSTA combination is the first and so far the only impractical thing from IKEA, at least until it is fully assembled^^
In the FRAMSTA wall panel, you can theoretically route the cables down the center, but they all still have to pass under the small column on the left or right side. I fed 5 of my total 10 cables at the 2nd panel and the 3rd panel each. Hung the TV temporarily to check, adjusted the cable lengths accordingly, and fixed them somewhere inside the FRAMSTA wall (e.g., with tape). Then the TV can be removed again for the rest of the assembly.
The INREDA lighting is really unsuitable for the panel wall; I find it quite cheeky that it is advertised for this. As soon as you connect the LED strips with the distance connectors, it looks terrible from the front because gaps appear. If you place 2 or 3 right next to each other, they are too short to shine around the sides of the TV. Four strips connected directly together just barely fit with a bit of squeezing. If they were 1cm (0.4 inches) shorter in total, it wouldn’t be a problem anymore. But at least you get good illumination of the panels then. Theoretically, though, you need one pack per panel, and that gets expensive! I have now attached 4 strips above the TV and 4 below it to the panel; it looks great from the front, but when looking from the side, you notice the middle panel is unlit. There will be a glass shelf above the TV, and I’ll light the top panel as well, but I still need to buy more INREDA.
All in all, it fit in by the skin of my teeth, it’s a massive hassle and not the usual easy IKEA assembly. It’s also a bit misleading how these look lit up in the showroom because it already fails due to the short INREDA cables... frustrating!
But once everything is screwed together and fixed to the wall, it holds firmly and looks great. Over time, you’ll forget all the hassle^^
In the FRAMSTA wall panel, you can theoretically route the cables down the center, but they all still have to pass under the small column on the left or right side. I fed 5 of my total 10 cables at the 2nd panel and the 3rd panel each. Hung the TV temporarily to check, adjusted the cable lengths accordingly, and fixed them somewhere inside the FRAMSTA wall (e.g., with tape). Then the TV can be removed again for the rest of the assembly.
The INREDA lighting is really unsuitable for the panel wall; I find it quite cheeky that it is advertised for this. As soon as you connect the LED strips with the distance connectors, it looks terrible from the front because gaps appear. If you place 2 or 3 right next to each other, they are too short to shine around the sides of the TV. Four strips connected directly together just barely fit with a bit of squeezing. If they were 1cm (0.4 inches) shorter in total, it wouldn’t be a problem anymore. But at least you get good illumination of the panels then. Theoretically, though, you need one pack per panel, and that gets expensive! I have now attached 4 strips above the TV and 4 below it to the panel; it looks great from the front, but when looking from the side, you notice the middle panel is unlit. There will be a glass shelf above the TV, and I’ll light the top panel as well, but I still need to buy more INREDA.
All in all, it fit in by the skin of my teeth, it’s a massive hassle and not the usual easy IKEA assembly. It’s also a bit misleading how these look lit up in the showroom because it already fails due to the short INREDA cables... frustrating!
But once everything is screwed together and fixed to the wall, it holds firmly and looks great. Over time, you’ll forget all the hassle^^
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